Pulling JD Rotodiesel injector pump

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M.Magis

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Just curious if anyone has any tips for removing a Rotodiesel injector pump from a JD tractor. Everything is unhooked but I need to press the shaft loose, and so far haven't been able to get it to pop off. It calls for a special JD tool, but I can't find one anywhere on the web. I tried a harmonic balancer puller, modified a bit. I was able to apply enough pressure to bend the bolts holding it to the timing gear housing, but the pump still didn't pop off. I suppose my next step is either make my own puller, or call the Deere shop 30 miles away and see if they have one available. Just checking if anyone has any other thoughts?
 
I have some on the camera, but it's at home. I'll try to get one on here in the morning. This is what it looks like. The shaft on the left goes through the timing gear housing. The shaft needs pressed to the right to get the tapered part loose. I didn't think it would be that tight, but it's not budging.

351730290347_1.jpg
 
It's the same idea as the Dodge with P7100 pumps.. a taper fit, I made my own puller out of a piece of 1/2 x 1.5" flat bar with a couple holes in it and a couple correct bolts, it works really well. Yes, they are on there pretty darned tight.

If the pump is garbage and has no core value, can you give the end of the shaft a whack?
 
As far as I know, the pump just needs rebuilt. But also, in order to hit it I'd have to remove the radiator, and the less I have to take apart the better.
I think making my own is going to be my best option. Getting the hole locations correct is going to be tricky, hopefully I can eyeball it and get them close enough.
 
M.Magis":1sizgmci said:
As far as I know, the pump just needs rebuilt. But also, in order to hit it I'd have to remove the radiator, and the less I have to take apart the better.
I think making my own is going to be my best option. Getting the hole locations correct is going to be tricky, hopefully I can eyeball it and get them close enough.
Take a piece of wide masking tape cut a hole in it to fit around the shaft. Attach to the gear and over the holes you are trying to match Punch holes in the tape to match holes in the gear. Attach this piece of tape to the material you are going to use for your pulley and transfer the holes to the material and drill them.
 
Thanks. The shaft was set back in so I couldn't get tape/paper to work. I ending up taking a piece of C channel and transfered the timing gear cover holes onto it, then used a set of dividers and found the center of the shaft for the third hole. Then welded on a 1/2" nut. Everything matched well, and I quickly twisted off two 1/2" bolts trying to prss it off. My biggest fear at this point is breaking my timing gear cover, but it seems my only option is to get some grade 8 or 10 bolts and keep trying. That thing is WAYYYY tighter than I expected it to be.
 
you should be able to do with without putting any pressure on the timing gear cover!! you're right for being worried about breaking it!.. you should have the nut loosely on the shaft, and push against that. You'll probably need a piece of thick flat stock that can get into whatever hole the cover is.

To measure the hole centers, put 2 longish bolts into the gear, then take calipers and measure across them, subtract the bolt size and that's you're hole center
 
I'll have to see if I can do that. The JD tool is made to attach directly to the timing gear cover, so that's how I made mine. However, JD tool attaches to the perimeter, where it's much stronger. I'm not sure there are any holes to use in the gear itself, but that would be preferable than using the cover.

Edit: Got it! There were two holes in the gear, but the hole in the cover is so small that when I made a plate to fit and drilled holes for the bolts, one hole overlapped the edge of the plate. Obviously that didn't work. So I went back to my original, tightened it down as tight as I was comfortable, then put a flat screwdriver between the pump and housing and gave it one tap. Popped right off.
 

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