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hayray

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Anyone using these. I was thinking of ordering a pallet load instead of using fiberglass. Based on the literature seems like they may have many advantages - what is the opinion on them?
 
I ordered a pallet of them last year and like them. I had to build a rig to help push them in with the front end loader as they want to flex. Make sure that when you attach the HT wire with the cotter pins you don't pinch the wire. The wire needs to be able to freely slide through the eye of the cotter pin. They do melt a bit if you or a neighbor burn pastures.

The great thing is they flex and return to their original shape very well...even when you try to back your truck through a 5 wire HT fence. Don't ask me how I know that. Should be great in areas that have high deer populations or heavy icing in the winter.

Let me know if I can answer any other specific questions.

JH
 
hayray":3uq68k0a said:
Anyone using these. I was thinking of ordering a pallet load instead of using fiberglass. Based on the literature seems like they may have many advantages - what is the opinion on them?
I like them very well I have put in over 2 pallets of them the last few years as for lasting they are great I have seen some that have been in for well over 8 yrs

I drive right over mine all the time with the ATV just pull up to a post, line the tire up and drive right over the fence I seen a guy doing it with a fert truck with flotation tires and he had no problem the post pop right back in place

As for driving them all you need is the pilot driver they sell and a 2 lb sledge to tap the post in the hole after you pull the pilot driver out just remember to pull the driver straight out and don't wiggle it around in the hole or else the post don't fit as tight
 
Here's a link to their price list.

http://powerflexfence.com/catalog01.3.html

At first I used a rock buster spear to create a pilot hole as Cowman suggested but I got even smarter. I had the local fabricator build a jig ($15) that allows me to load the post in the the jig, place it on the ground, push on a plate welded to the top of the jig with my front end loader. Not only does it save time, the post goes in super tight, and every one is driven to the perfect height automatically. Let me know if you want me to take some photos to better explain.

JH
 
jhambley":3c5s7i8i said:
Here's a link to their price list.

http://powerflexfence.com/catalog01.3.html

At first I used a rock buster spear to create a pilot hole as Cowman suggested but I got even smarter. I had the local fabricator build a jig ($15) that allows me to load the post in the the jig, place it on the ground, push on a plate welded to the top of the jig with my front end loader. Not only does it save time, the post goes in super tight, and every one is driven to the perfect height automatically. Let me know if you want me to take some photos to better explain.

JH
You must have better rock free ground than us :cry2:
 
Angus Cowman":2y75p8oh said:
jhambley":2y75p8oh said:
Here's a link to their price list.

http://powerflexfence.com/catalog01.3.html

At first I used a rock buster spear to create a pilot hole as Cowman suggested but I got even smarter. I had the local fabricator build a jig ($15) that allows me to load the post in the the jig, place it on the ground, push on a plate welded to the top of the jig with my front end loader. Not only does it save time, the post goes in super tight, and every one is driven to the perfect height automatically. Let me know if you want me to take some photos to better explain.

JH
You must have better rock free ground than us :cry2:

My thoughts exactly!
 
jhambley":1jx1ymsf said:
Here's a link to their price list.

http://powerflexfence.com/catalog01.3.html

At first I used a rock buster spear to create a pilot hole as Cowman suggested but I got even smarter. I had the local fabricator build a jig ($15) that allows me to load the post in the the jig, place it on the ground, push on a plate welded to the top of the jig with my front end loader. Not only does it save time, the post goes in super tight, and every one is driven to the perfect height automatically. Let me know if you want me to take some photos to better explain.

JH
That would be great if you could show some pics. How many wires are you guys using on them, what is the spacing, and how deep are you putting them, also what size post are you using? Thanks,
 
hayray":17uoc94r said:
That would be great if you could show some pics. How many wires are you guys using on them, what is the spacing, and how deep are you putting them, also what size post are you using? Thanks,

I only use HT elec on interior fences on divider fences I use the 4 ft post with 2 wires and about 32" of the post exposed

on fences that take a little more pressure like alleyways I use the 6 ft post and leave about 4 ft exposed and run 3 wires at 16" 30" and 44"

I charge the top and bottom wire on the 3 wire fence and use the middle as a ground

on the divider fences I space my ost about 30-40 ft and the alleyways I space them at 20ft
 
Red Bull Breeder":3mibvcwx said:
Where you guys are in the gravel ridges i got creek rock bottoms here in the valley.
The gravel is only a couple of inches thick on top of the solid limestoen cap rock. Extends down into the bottoms too. There are a copule of spots that I can get down a good solid 18 inches, but there aren't many of those. There are a number of places that the hole is dug as deep as possible then a post is set with a 12 inch high concrete footing above the ground.
 
I had a place like that, too. I ended using a rotary hammer and an air compressor to drill holes down through the rock. Then, I knocked the wings off the bottom of t-posts and stuck them down in the holes.
 

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