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portable electric fencing questions

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pdubdo

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New to this so here goes. I've got 4 x approx 7-8 acre paddocks (basically a big rectangle) I'm going to rotate through every 1-2 weeks. Using a polyrope and step-in posts. Water is at the intersection of the paddocks with some auxiliary mobile water as well.

1). do I include the perimeter fence in each paddock or create driving lanes between the paddock and the perimeter fence so I can drive completely around the paddock and also check perimeter fence? I can see pros and cons to both (i.e. cows are keeping the perimeter fenceline grass eaten back).

2). I have 800+ foot runs of polyrope - what about stronger corner posts? I've thought about t-posts driven extra deep initially and if I like my layout, placing wooden posts at the corners.

3). I'm sure I can figure this out by trial and error, but do I need little flags/tassles/etc to make the rope extra visible to cattle? Any benefit to this?

4). Lastly, ideally, I'd place my grounding rods and solar charger in the middle of all 4 paddocks so I'm not moving the ground...except it'll be quite close to my water line/water trough. Any advice on a) ways to keep the charge from jumping to the water line? or b) don't do this?

Thanks!
 

dun

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What I did with a similar set up was fence the water point with barbed with an opening into each of the possible paddocks. To move them I would just open they gate into the paddock I wanted them in and close the one behind them when they had all moved. If the perimeter barbed is on t-posts, I would just hook the ground to one of the strands of barbed.
 

1wlimo

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I run ploy wire and tread in posts at 25 yards, then three rebar posts on corners spaced at 2 yards apart as they go around. Move every three days generally. Then I can change the paddock size as the season and grass growth changes.
I t post would work on a corner 2. Use angle iron for end posts, and have for corner posts in the past.
 

Texasmark

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Having ground at the watering hole would be best for ground contact.....wet soil conducts better. If the waterline is buried it is already "grounded" so no chance of electrical shock off it but it would serve as a ground for any electrical charge.

I too have used a strand of barbed wire for the ground with steel T posts as every 10 or whatever your post spacing is, you have a ground to go with your hot wire around your "paddock".

I always put pieces of plastic tape (made for the purpose) along a new fence for the reason mentioned. Never have a problem with that.

I use regular electric fence expanding gates for paddock separation. Cows know where the new grass is and will line up at the gate for me to let them in.
 

BK9954

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A trick I was given for corner post was put wire on the bottom of a T post and drive it in. Then put in another t post and attach the wire to the top of that one to use as an anchor. Works great for high tensile. My wires are TIGHT and those post have been holding since last winter. CALLMEFENCE gets the credit. I did permanent fence on 30 acres with 2 wires on a 50 mile charger. Overkill but even with brush or trees touching, or even a slight short it still produces a good voltage. When I do my feed call and go to the gate the cows know what time it is.
 

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