Outrider Herbicide Mixture

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Sep 13, 2004
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Tennessee
I am going to spray Outrider tomorrow morning as that is when the wind will be below 5 mph. I want to mix a non ionic surfactant with it and a drift control. Anyone ever added Class Act with this herbicide as well. It is supposed to smoke Johnson Grass and Nutsedge and not harm Bermuda grass. If this works the way they say it does, then I will be so very happy.

Trying to get this Bermuda Grass hay field back in shape. It was let go for a few years and the Bermuda is still out there, but so is the Johnson Grass, Nutsedge, Indian Hemp, and Orange trumpet vine which is sold in flower books. Cracks me up what is a weed to us and a flowering vine to another. I remember chopping this out of the Cotton Fields when I was a kid.

Quite a bit of Bermuda still there, just have to give it more room.
 
Outrider herbicide is suppose to kill by the leaves and the roots. It tells on the label that if you get enough rain afterwards, (after 2 hours of application) that it carries it down to the roots of Johnson Grass and nutsedge. It reports on the label (5.0 Time to Symptoms) that the plants may turn a dark green and stunted after application. The affected leaves will turn yellow and or red and the growing point of the plant may turn a reddish purple. It says you will observe this one to three week after application. It says 6 weeks the plant dies. With adequate rain, this process is speeds up this process.

We got it sprayed by 10:00 AM and then 10:00 PM we got rain, probably 1/2." So this is a new herbicide for me and anxious to see how well it works. I will report on the outcome. I know many people battle Johnson Grass and Nutsedge in hayfields. I have Johnson Grass in my pastures, but never see it because the cattle eat it as soon as the leaves pop out of the soil.
 
Today after spraying the Johnson Grass, it does not have that erect straight stand that it usually has, waving leaves in the wind. It seems to have lost some luster, So I have rain coming down the next few days to see if the moisture really does speed up the demise of the Johnson Grass and nutsedge.
 
Please keep on posting your experience. I too am battling a field that has been neglected for many years with Johnson grass, bull nettles and sand burrs. Sprayed Grazon next on Monday. 🤞🏻
 
Please keep on posting your experience. I too am battling a field that has been neglected for many years with Johnson grass, bull nettles and sand burrs. Sprayed Grazon next on Monday. 🤞🏻
I surely will. This is 3 days past spraying and right now the rain is coming down hard. I am anxious to see if the rain following the spraying does make it work faster. The Johnson Grass was really kicking in after putting down 200 units of nitrogen with P and K also. So it was pushing it fast. Yesterday I walked a good bit of it and it had a dehydrated look. I did not look at my nutsedge for some reason. There are really big patches of it and will try to go back out there this afternoon as it shows 100% Thunderstorms until 4:00.
I know often I write a lot, but I think of how many times I wanted information about a chemical and cannot find anyone giving details. So, I will tell you how it goes.
 
I think we got a bit over 1" today and went to the hay field to see if there were any more changes..
The label said that the grasses would turn a darker green first, but that was not the case with the Johnson Grass, but the nutsedge turned as dark as the Bermuda grass which surprised me. I could not tell if the nutsedge was changing otherwise except for the color, but it had not grown any and the Bermuda was coming up more as it was spreading.
The Johnson Grass did like it said it would do. It had red streaks in the leaves and there was also some yellowing in the center of the stalks going out to the leaves. There was also some dry streaks in the leaves. But all in all, the Johnson Grass was definitely going through a change. I am anxious to see what it does to the nutsedge. I hope it knocks it back like it tells it does.
Here are a few pictures of what the Sedge Grass and Johnson Grass looks like after this rain. The hay field was sprayed on 4-30-2025. First picture is of how bright green the nutsedge turned, as it has always been a yellow glowing green. In the next two pictures, you can see where the red leaves are beginning to show up and some are almost a deep black/red color; a bit of yellowing where the leaves come out from the center. And streaks of dry lines that were not there before. With them telling this can take up to 6 weeks to die back; I feel that I am seeing the change coming sooner with the rain. It is supposed to rain again tonight and tomorrow. I post pictures as I see changes.
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Johnson Grass appears to be wilting today. It was about 12 to16" inches tall and waving way up above the ground. Now when I look across the the hill, it is flattening down. Nutsedge is still a darker green but not growing taller.
 
I let a couple of days go by to see if I could tell a difference. And yes there was, The Johnson Grass is about gone. It looks like it is scorched. There is a spot or two where it was real thick, but it is turning red, so it is just taking a bit longer. The first picture below is the Johnson Grass. It i just before turning brown.
The second picture is of the Nutsedge. You can see the center is yellowing out and turning brown.
So Outrider is a great product in my eyes except for the high cost. You need 2 oz. of this dry product to the acre. And the bottle I purchased was a 20 oz size and cost $347. Sulosulfuron 75% is the chemical and the strength. You might can search out a liquid and it might be cheaper. But I am well pleased what it did. If there is not another chemical that equals this, I will buy it again for next year if I see any Johnson Grass or Nutsedge popping back up.
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Dang that is high. But I have spent more than that with less results. Wonder what it would do on bull nettle and/sand burrs. I'll check with my chemical supplier and see if there is another brand that has that chemical and report back. That is if it's cheaper
 
I am about to write another thread on Detonate generic for Clarity, which I think will kill your your bull nettle. Check and see if it is a night shade but it will list Horse nettle, Night shades, and Bull thistle.
 
Sulfosulfuron 75% is the name of the chemical. But I cannot find it cheaper. They sell 1.25 oz on sale for around $80. All that I added up to make 10 oz was more expensive than Outrider. I also noticed that this killed a small sort grass beginning to cover the bare soil and it was identified as Japanese Stiltgrass. It smoked it as well but did not affect the few bunches of Ryegrass. I will take my hand wand out there and swipe them all on both sides.
I am thankful that I will not have to rope wick all day long going both ways. But still will do it if I have to.
 
Dang that is high. But I have spent more than that with less results. Wonder what it would do on bull nettle and/sand burrs. I'll check with my chemical supplier and see if there is another brand that has that chemical and report back. That is if it's cheaper
If you find something cheaper, do share it with us. That would put me into dancing mode.
 
Outrider rules at this point or shall I say Sulfosulfuron 75%. Only a tiny strip is left of Johnson grass that was passed over and I may buy one of those small containers you use to mix in hand sprayers and go smoke it again. I know Round up will knock it down, but it never really seems to smoke it out down to the roots completely as there is always a roots left in several spots that keeps on keeping on.

The weeds and Johnson Grass has been so thick that it has shaded out my Bermuda Grass, but the Bermuda is everywhere in patches. Here you can see the edge of a Johnson Grass patch that is dying now, and see how sparse the Bermuda is at this point. I do believe that I can pull it out this year with applications of Urea and phosphate each time every 30 days. Even if I do not have enough hay on this field to bale, I must cut the seed heads out and hope that it reached a height that I can mow it in the least of 4," but prefer 6" so the stolens will run across the ground and root. Many areas are already 6" tall. I know that the root system is not all that it can be from lack of fertilizer, but I put lime down last year and this year where it reached 6.1 which is border line on the low side. So I had them spread a one ton on each acre to bring it up a bit more. hoping it should be right at 6.8 pH. I purposely mowed it all last summer just for the weeds and Bermuda to fall to the ground for organic matter. I have quite a bit of horse manure, to spread over the hill side on this hay field, then thought about fencing it and letting the cows run on it after I make my last cutting which would be before September 1st. It just takes too long to get it to dry before then. We lose sunlight hours and it does not cure like it does in late May, June, July and August. No more hay in September.

But returning the Bermuda clipping into the soil at the end of the summer and clip it at 6-7" and then let the cattle feed on it as well as the hay. Where I stockpiled it in the pasture, they did not eat much of it. I can usually cut a few bales of Bermuda out of my pasture because the grass is so thick, as I raise the disc mower high to get rid of the seed heads. Bermuda in my pasture is the same that is in the hay field. So much of my pasture is Durana Clover that they eat what comes up all winter and the hay I put out. I like to not overstock my pastures. It really bothers me to see bare ground, but in the spring, the cattle take the Durana clover patches down to the soil while the grasses grow tall and I have to mow them. But there is much Durana in the Bermuda as well. While the Bermuda has to be cut becaues it starts to go into the boot stage. At that point, the protein is the highest. Then the new growth of the grass is soft and easy to graze with higher protein that grasses that go to seed. Even Fescue that goes to seed has lost the protein in the seed heads. I never see cattle eating the seed heads.

Sorry for rattling on as I get into making grass pastures and hay fields turn out to be the best that I can afford. I just hate how my hay field went badly after the loss of my husband and had to regroup. So now I am regrouped and going to turn it around. Feels good to be working on the hay field and pastures again.

Here is the picture below I spoke of earlier of how spotty this Vaughns Bermuda got from being smothered out. The soil looks dry from the dead organic matter on the top, but there is a lot of moisture in the soil. But I know it is a good Bermuda as I can see how nice it grows in the pasture with the help of fertilizer, liming, mowing it and letting the cattle graze it as the mowing and cattle pooping on the soil is returning the nutrients back to the soil. When we cut hay and keep taking off the nutrients in the grasses and turning it into hay, then we lose what we have pulled out of the soil. Sort of robbing the land. But if you ca return some of the nutrients and organic matter, it does so much better.

Remember Doc Harris how he would write really long articles about cattle? Looks like I am taking his place. He was in his 90's and was as sharp as a tack. I do miss him greatly as we messaged each other back and forth and he was such a nice guy. Anyway, looks like I am writing a book here. He and his wife were still together in their 90's and he enjoyed coming here and talking about cattle from days gone by. I miss him.
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So how is your Bermuda weathering these chemicals Suzanne?

Ken
Hey Ken!! First of all, the Bermuda is not used to so much sun light in areas, and it is trying to adjust. I can also see in some spots where it has been sprayed to death, and it has made it become discolored, but some of the literature said it would happen, and not to be alarmed as it might stunt it a bit, but with fertilizer and sun that it has not been getting, it will return to where it should be. I took a picture of the Bermuda that has discolored to show as I have blasted the field. I can see a sprig on nutsedge to the left in this patch. The next picture is of a patch of bright green Bermuda, with some trumpet vine that had some height and sunlight that is stronger against the chemicals and it is still growing well. Still not as thick as it should be, but I will take care of it putting nutrient back in the soil.
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The nutsedge is really slow to die, but it is getting there. Yesterday it was a light brown yellow, and has not grown any. It has not put out more seed heads and is completely dormant and dying.

I sprayed this field on April 30th, and today is May 14. So it takes about 2 weeks to see that it truly is dying. Some times weeds will be discolored and you think you have killed it, and then to see a new shoot being put out is not good. But this product has done exactly what they said it would do. 2 oz. to a gallon is the strength I used.

Another thing, I clean my tank out and my sprayer has a filter on the bottom. After rinsing the tank out and draing any small amount on the bottom of the ridges of the tank, I took my filter off and it had a lot of white sediment in it. At first it made me think that I had not run the agitator that long, but it ran a long time. Dumped the Outrider when the tank was half full, and the agitator was running then as the water looked like it was boiling. Then let it run a bit and then began to pour 10 gallons of Class Act in as well. We let it the agitator run for a while and then as we drove to the field. I concerned me that the white sediment was part of the Outrider. Class Act is a liquid. But what ever is in the screen of the filter, it did not clog the red spray tips on my sprayer. So I don't know what is up with the white sediment.
But no doubt, if I see Johnson Grass or Nutsedge next year, I will use it again.
 
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