NH 850 Baler

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killingtime

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I need to know some information about these balers. I used the search feature found some info but I would like a little more specifics. I can pick one of these balers up for about $1000 bucks in what is said to be field ready condition. Here's the probem: I know absolutely nothing about a chain baler.
Can someone give me some basic info about them and things to watch out for? How much horsepower do you need tp pull it and what size bale to they make?

Thanks!
 
KT, I have an 851 AutoWrap that I've used for about 10 years. There a couple of things to lookout for.

The string cutter works most of the time but it misses every once in a while. Maybe it's just my baler. Keep the knives as sharp as possible.

I bale Coastal, Bohia and Gordo. It works pretty good on the Gordo and Coastal but the Bohia - most of it passes out the back as "fines" even thought the "fines" plate is on the baler. I really don't think I can blame the baler for that.

The drive line has shear pins and if you ever stop the bale process (while the bale is still in the chamber) and try to start it again it will shear the pins. Pins are only available at NH and they are metric.

Floor chain wear plates must be in good shape. If not you will hang a floor chain on the leading edge and all heII breaks loose. I've heard that some smart feller has figured out he (you) can weld a spacer in the bottom of the wear plates so that only the bearing in the chain comes in contact with the wear plates which greatly extends the life of both the chains and the wear plates.

Broke a bale tension cable (top of the baler) which caused a lot of damage. Had to replace the adjustment plate on that side of the baler because when the cable broke the tension spring snapped closed and crumpled the steel plate.

Let's see, what else. Oh, yea. mine never made a really firm, tight bale. Some folks told me that was a quirk of a chain baler and not just the NH. The others seem to not have that problem. I think CFPINZ on here has an 8xx series baler that he has no problem with. Really doesn't make that much difference if you store them inside.

Oil the chains BEFORE and AFTER baling (and maybe a couple of times in between). Check the floor chain bearings - they WILL cause a baler fire :shock: .

One more thing, you can choke that baler if you look at it wrong. Keep your windrows at no more than 2 feet high and forward speed pretty darn slow. And I guess you know about weaving back and forth across the windrow to make sure you get a "square" looking bale (not lopsided).

By the way, I just bought a new NH belt baler, if that tells you anything.

Good luck and let me hear how you made out.
 
Some guys still use them for grass hay, even though you will end up with a lower protein bale. They usually have two or three balers including one for parts. The ones that work cost about $1500 around here.
 
We had one a long time ago, it makes a 4X4 bale. Lava, described the thing pretty well. It's just an older less evolved baler.

Larry
 
Thanks for all the input. Sounds like it might be a decent buy, especially if I could talk him down a couple hundred. I know it wouldn't be as nice as some but I bet it would bale hay.

That being said, and I know this may open up a can of worms, but what are some good older (or newer) belt round balers that can be had for a fair price? And what are some to stay away from? Would like to stay less than $5000 and be able to pull it with 60hp if needed. I just don't know alot about round balers. We've always used silage out of a pit and square bales, so never messed with rounds much. Don't use silage anymore and wanting to start making my own round bales. I know alot of this will be opinion but everybody's got one of those, right?
 

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