Need tip on building a cow shelter

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Ruark

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I need to build a cow shelter, just a 3-walled shelter to block the winter wind when it really blows. The ground has subsurface slab rock, so post holes aren't viable. Just something cheap that works; this isn't the Taj Mahal.

It'll be about 10 X 20 feet. 8 feet high in the front, sloping down to 6 1/2.

I want to make the frame out of, I guess, angle iron. Would 2X2X1/8 be heavy enough, or should I go to 1/4?

I'd like to use 2 3/8" or maybe 2 7/8" oilfield pipe, but I don't have any way to cut the saddles for the joints - no oxyfuel or plasma. I'm wondering if you can buy connectors, sort of like those PVC connectors.

Any advice or suggestions would be welcome.
 
What ever pipe you use get the next larger size, cut 6" piece thread Allen screw to each piece . It will make a splice.
 
What ever pipe you use get the next larger size, cut 6" piece thread Allen screw to each piece . It will make a splice.

These would need to be T-connectors and 3-way corner connectors.
 
M-5":1719nuah said:
You can cut saddles with an 4 1/2 "grinder or chop saw.

You're talking about cutting a "V" in the end of the pipe and having a big space to fill in with some 6010?
 
What id id for the caprock areas was punch about a half dozen 5/8 inch holes with a hammer drill as deep as I could make them. Drove in rebar and made a footing for each post that included the rebar sticking out a foot above ground.
 
wbvs58":khu50434 said:
Is it going to have a roof? sounds like it from the slope from front to back.
What are you going to line the walls with?
Ken

It won't be that elaborate. Just corrugated galvanized roofing and walls. Just something to block the wind. The roof slope is just for rain runoff.
 
We just had a 14 x 24 shelter built with 2x2x8 concrete block walls & a wood frame roof sheeted w/26ga metal. The concrete blocks have a notch so they fit like a jigsaw puzzle and it's not considered a permanent structure so not taxable. It would be a giant pain but we could move it if we had to.
 
Using iron for the walls and roof I would build it light and anchor it to the rock as Dun suggested, threaded rod drilled in and Chemset in will hold it. I would use 2x2 galv RHS posts on corners and another along the back 2.5mm wall thickness would be heaps and then I would screw Tophat purlins around the walls, one at the top bottom and middle to screw the cladding to and similar with the roof but you will need a C section along the front to span the 20' and 3 rafters, one on each end and one in the middle to take the tophats and the the iron screw to them. The tophat purlins are very light and strong and will span 4 metres on the roof and they are very cheap.
You probably don't know what I am talking about as you don't seem to build sheds with steel frames very much over there but we use nothing but steel frame sheds here and with a bit of bracing in the right places they will pass the highest cyclone rating.
Ken
 
Rent a rock drill.
You can cut saddles with a grinder or chopsaw , but the band saw is better than anything including A TORCH. We cut saddles every day and haven't used a torch to do it for 10 years. All done with a Milwaukee portable bandsaw. 299.00 from home depot. Everbody should have one
 
dun":12t3ni2d said:
What id id for the caprock areas was punch about a half dozen 5/8 inch holes with a hammer drill as deep as I could make them. Drove in rebar and made a footing for each post that included the rebar sticking out a foot above ground.
I like that suggestion! I think that might get me over a hump or two! Thanks Mr Dun!
 
Fenceman wrote:
Rent a rock drill.
You can cut saddles with a grinder or chopsaw , but the band saw is better than anything including A TORCH. We cut saddles every day and haven't used a torch to do it for 10 years. All done with a Milwaukee portable bandsaw. 299.00 from home depot. Everbody should have one

Hey Fenceman, next time your crew is cutting saddles would you make another of those Fenceman building fence videos if you get the chance. :cboy:
 
If you use 2 x 2 x 1/8 square tubing you can forget about the saddles. You can also get angle clips and sheet metal screws and put the whole thing up without a welder. That is the way a lot of these carport kits are made these days. Find a good metal building supplier and ask for a carport kit then add some wall purlins and sheet metal and you are finished. The way the others suggest with a rock drill works the best.
 
BigYoung":3anqohy1 said:
Fenceman wrote:
Rent a rock drill.
You can cut saddles with a grinder or chopsaw , but the band saw is better than anything including A TORCH. We cut saddles every day and haven't used a torch to do it for 10 years. All done with a Milwaukee portable bandsaw. 299.00 from home depot. Everbody should have one

Hey Fenceman, next time your crew is cutting saddles would you make another of those Fenceman building fence videos if you get the chance. :cboy:
Sure, should be cutting some tommorow, I'll put in the tips thread.
 

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