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Loose wheel studs

Calman

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Ya'll probably saw my post about loosing a wheel on the tractor.
While at the dealer's today I was talking to a gentelman who had been using tractors of kinds for about 60 years.He said once a wheel works loose like this it will probably do it again.He said to take the welder and put a small weld on the bolt head to the wheel. I really don't need to remove the wheels for any reason,and every time we replace a tractor tire we dont pull the wheel off.A small tack could be ground off with an angle grinder pretty easy.And also 8 of these stud bolts came to $96. :mad: :mad:
So what do yall think? Like to hear yall's pro and cons on this.

Cal
 

Angus Cowman

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Cal I wouldn't weld them in IMO I would get them good and tight and then take a center punch and bur the threads right where it contacts the nut and if you do need to pull the nuts they will take the burr off when you back them off
that is just my opinion
 

Calman

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Angus Cowman":2onon9zn said:
Cal I wouldn't weld them in IMO I would get them good and tight and then take a center punch and bur the threads right where it contacts the nut and if you do need to pull the nuts they will take the burr off when you back them off
that is just my opinion

AC I guess I didn't word that right what I meant was just a tack of weld on the head of the bolt to the wheel.
There is no threads showing. The stud has a flat washer that fits up snug to the wheel when tightened.
Maby a lock washer instead of a flat washer might work. The studs are 5/8 by 1in long.Metric fine thread.

Thanks Cal
 

cowsrus

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had one come off once and they are a booger to put back on. We just tightned it down good and i kept an eye on it for a while. I think the guy who took it off to fix a flat just didn't put it back on good. I wouldn't weld it. jmo
 

Jogeephus

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I run duals a lot and am pretty hard on the wheels at times. Had a lot of different problems but never what happened to you. I think it was a freak deal and I'd be willing to bet it was all due to the yahoo that put the tires on. I'd be willing to bet my last dollar he used an air wrench and tightened them to the hilt one at a time rather than alternating them like you should do to insure that the rim seats correctly. I'd run them just like they are for a day then take a tire tool with about a four foot cheater rod and see if I can't tighten them some more. If they won't budge, I doubt you will ever have another problem with them. JMO
 

Calman

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Thanks ya'll for the input.
I guess it all boils down to me being to worried that it will come off again.What with ma arm and ribs still black and blue.Probably when I get over these aches and pains I won't be to concerned about it. :lol: :lol:

Cal
 

lavacarancher

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If I'm understanding the issue correctly the lug nuts are coming off the studs? Or do you have bolts that go through the rim into the axle flange.

Either way, I would not weld anything. As stated in previous suggestions I suspect the wheel (rim) was not attached properly just prior to the thing coming off. What Jo described (I think) was torquing the lug nuts in a cross pattern to make sure the wheel (rim) is properly centered over the studs or bolts. If this isn't done you may be tightening down on a part of the center section of the rim that is not countersunk. As the tractor is used the wheel moves around until it is centered over the countersink and when that happens the lug nuts are completly loose and will come off.

One more thing. If the wheel moved around a lot it may have bunged up the threads on the stud or bolt to the point that you will not be able to completly tighten them down against the wheel. Check to make sure the lug nut or bolt tightens all the way to the axle flange.

Good luck!
 

Cowdirt

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lavacarancher":2igdolk8 said:
If I'm understanding the issue correctly the lug nuts are coming off the studs? Or do you have bolts that go through the rim into the axle flange.

Either way, I would not weld anything. As stated in previous suggestions I suspect the wheel (rim) was not attached properly just prior to the thing coming off. What Jo described (I think) was torquing the lug nuts in a cross pattern to make sure the wheel (rim) is properly centered over the studs or bolts. If this isn't done you may be tightening down on a part of the center section of the rim that is not countersunk. As the tractor is used the wheel moves around until it is centered over the countersink and when that happens the lug nuts are completly loose and will come off.

One more thing. If the wheel moved around a lot it may have bunged up the threads on the stud or bolt to the point that you will not be able to completly tighten them down against the wheel. Check to make sure the lug nut or bolt tightens all the way to the axle flange.

Good luck!

Lava, I agree with your assessment. Earlier he stated that there were flat washers under the nuts. If the holes are countersunk and the correct matching nuts are used, no washers are necessary. Matter of fact that could be the problem if the holes are countersunk and and the matching tapered nuts are tightened on flat washers. Get my drift?
 

Calman

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What I have is lug bolts,and they do not have a beveled head,nor is the wheel holes beveled.The bolts have flat washers that are about 1/4 in thick.

Cal
 

DiamondSCattleCo

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If you follow lava's advice you should be fine, however I have seen well worn hubs/lugs/etc that a nut won't stay tight on. In that case, throw a gob of LocTite 515 on the nut and be done with it. Torque it up hard, and don't worry about it...
 

hillrancher

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Agree with Diamond Cattle, use lock tite the red let is harden as long as you can before using and use it every time when the wheel is removed I am sure it will do the job. It has several time for me. I always clean with MEK before using lock tite.
 

Calman

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Thanks everyone.I Jacked up the wheels and took all lug bolts out one at a time and cleaned them and the hole and put lock tight on them and torqued to the called for pounds.I will check them ever now and then to see if they are getting loose.

Cal
 
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