Looking to buy a new truck

[cfpinz]

You must of had 4.10 in your Dodge.

3.73's

I felt like the 3.73 gear was perfect for the straight six torque curve, it just needed a lower 1st gear and a reverse that was half the speed. Reverse was murder on that truck's clutch, and the lack of 2Lo availability just added insult to injury. Manual transmission Dodges only have one OD (in the .75 neighborhood off the top of my head) while AT's have 2 OD's (a .85 and a .65 or thereabouts).

Every Ford diesel that I've owned has had 4.10's including the current one, just seems to mesh well with the V8 engines.

 

[SALTBRANCH2]

Starting to think about upgrading to a newer truck. I'm currently in an 06 2500 Duramax. I hauled some hay for my uncle in his 3500 this summer and really, really liked pulling with the dually. Has anybody made the switch from a 3/4 to a 1 ton and regretted it? Also I would definitely want to go with a flatbed but have found a good deal on truck that currently has a regular bed. Anybody had any luck selling a bed they pulled off and replaced with a flatbed? Any recommendations on bed brands would be appreciated as well

The ddually will be harder to get around in most all parking lots. THe parking spots in most places these days are not stripped for a dually. Going through drive throuhs are tough at times. If you have blowout, the fenders will be toast. If you are in rocky terrain, rocks can and will get lodged between the dual's, causing havoc on the balance. If in deep mud, the same as mud will pack on between the dual tires and jack the balance up. Dualls will tear up the ranch roads when they are soft. You must check your tire pressures often. As a low tire on the inside and the tire on the out side inflated to capacity..when loaded heavy, the outside tire has a higher potential to blow out as it is carrying the majority of the load. Many more negatives can be addressed. Tire replacement time is expensive, you do not want to run a worn tire and a new tire paired up on the rear, new tire will carry majority of weight...

Why the desire to change? Are you hauling heavy most of the time? Most of these newer 3/4 ton trucks, meaning 2k and up have substantial towing capabilities. Is this a need or a want thing? I own both and prefer the 3/4 ton over the 1 ton in most cases.

Another thing to consider is your states laws on CDl requirement. Example in Texas any combination over 26,001 lbs requires CDL. So take your new 1 ton dually, it will have a GVWR around 13,750 lbs. so hook that up to your flatbed trailer with 2-7k axles, GVWR 14,000 lbs. Now if you are running a standard Texas trailer license plate you must have a commercial inspection on the truck and trailer because your GCWR is over the 26,001 thresh hold. You also no need a CDL. Now if running farm plates on the trailer, you are fine as the threshold for a GCVWR jumps to 54k-ish...cant remember the exact number.
I run farm plates on all my trailers and on the dually. DPS was hot and heavy enforcing this a few years back. It seems they go in cycles enforcing this law.
It got so bad at work from State DOT and Houston DOT stopping our small work truck/trailer setups and issueing tickets for what I described. I started buying trailers for work that had 2-7k axle but I had the MFG put new vin tags on, the existing trailers-I had new VIN tags made to say the same:

2-7k axles.
GVWR 12,000 lbs
So when I put a 1 ton under the trailer I was under the 26,001 lbs
Just things to consider

 

[Texasmark]

Put air lift load lifter air bag on yours and it will make it almost as stable loaded as the ton. Your 06 was the year before most of the extra EPA Tier 4 requirements were added to the diesel trucks. If it was me and your truck is not T-totally worn out I would try to put it in A1 shape. You can add power if you want.

That thought has crossed my mind many times. I wanted an LBZ every since high school and when I found mine I was thrilled to finally own one. The motor and tranny are strong and have never given me the first problem but the list of things I haven't replaced on that truck is shorter than list of things I have replaced. I've held on to it a lot longer than I probably should have because I wanted to keep the truck so bad. I ran across a '15 gmc 3/4 ton and considered it. Would definitely put air underneath it if I went that route. You have any experience with the air bags? I've got heavier springs under my 06 and it helps worth the squat but not much with the side to side sway. I think "helper springs" is the brand.

I ran "air shocks" on a '674 door Bel Air when I had 4 kids, camped and pulled a boat. You know you can actually bend the bracket to which the shocks are attached at the top.......

On OTR "rock buckets" (80k#) I ran springs and bags. Was over at the Navistar OTR truck dealer the other day buying a new battery for one of my tractors (31S, 925 CCA $75....have a pallet of them sitting in the lobby and more in the store room) and browsed the onhand equipment......all bags.

My take: Bags hands down...you won't go back!

 

[Texasmark]

Put air lift load lifter air bag on yours and it will make it almost as stable loaded as the ton. Your 06 was the year before most of the extra EPA Tier 4 requirements were added to the diesel trucks. If it was me and your truck is not T-totally worn out I would try to put it in A1 shape. You can add power if you want.

That thought has crossed my mind many times. I wanted an LBZ every since high school and when I found mine I was thrilled to finally own one. The motor and tranny are strong and have never given me the first problem but the list of things I haven't replaced on that truck is shorter than list of things I have replaced. I've held on to it a lot longer than I probably should have because I wanted to keep the truck so bad. I ran across a '15 gmc 3/4 ton and considered it. Would definitely put air underneath it if I went that route. You have any experience with the air bags? I've got heavier springs under my 06 and it helps worth the squat but not much with the side to side sway. I think "helper springs" is the brand.

I ran "air shocks" on a '67, 4 door Bel Air when I had 4 kids, camped and pulled a boat. You know you can actually bend the bracket to which the shocks are attached at the top.......

On OTR "rock buckets" (80k#) I ran springs and bags on different rigs. Was over at the Navistar OTR truck dealer the other day buying a new battery for one of my tractors (31S, 925 CCA $75....have a pallet of them sitting in the lobby and more in the store room) and browsed the onhand equipment......all bags.

My take: Bags hands down...you won't go back!

 

[Texasmark]

If you buy brand new and replace the bed before you scratch up the new one you can probably sell it for 400 to 800. Not much for sure. Half the time the tail gate is worth more than the bed. When I bought my 3500 the dealer had a customer looking for a bed so it was an easy deal for me to sell. Sold for $800 but it was perfect. The guy installing the flatbed helped out with the transaction. He told me he had sold a few but never one for what I got.

Look around for a tradesman package without the appearance package. In other words no chrome anywhere. Mine new was cheaper than anything used I looked at because they were all loaded with stuff I didn't want. Go to the Ram website and build you one like you want to get an idea on the price. Then have the system tell you where one is at. There was only one like I wanted within a 100 miles. Its been a good truck so far but I only have 30K miles on it. It does have a airbag recall pending.

My 2011 Silverado does too, received it a year or so ago. Nothing more on the supply side. I guess it might just blow up one of these days......I may have missed something. May be I am supposed to contact the dealer and setup a replacement appointment. Next time I go by for my annual TX. vehicle inspection I might ask about it.

 

[Texasmark]

I have been through several of your questions. I have had a o6 dura max 3500 since 12. Before that all hauling was with a 3/4 imho if pulling real weight no comparsion and feels safer. The 06 has air bags under it. In feb of 17 i bought a new 16 c&c chevy with a cm aluminum bed. If buying new i would look for a model year back, the savings are stupid. I kept the 06 dually and put a flat bed on it, just a lot better option for me. Fuel tank, air compresser, tools etc. I put a gooseneck brand bed on it and love it. It's painted not powder coated have friends with year or two old powder coated beds that look like rust crap. And the goose neck are cheaper than most. I got a deal on the c&C had the aluminum bed on it on the lot, i would not have payed what that bed cost. It looks great but not as tough and makes truck ride rougher when not loaded. This truck is usually under a trailer.
I sold that 10 year old not busted take off bed for 1200. I don't regret buying new but looked around. Keep in mind a C&C will be a bit longer and bed be little narrower vs a dually take off.
All that said next time around if i get the chance. Next truck will be a ford with a gooseneck bed with a trough going to the ball. I don't ever see going back to a 3/4 or regular bed. For running around i have a beater tacoma. All depends on your uses.
My workers now drive that old 3/4 the leaf springs broke and fell out of it yesterday

Have you had any kind of problems out of your 16? Ive got a couple dumb questions but I don't know the answer so I'm going to ask them. Would the wear and tear be worse on the front end of a dually compared to a 3/4 ton as far as getting around in pastures and hayfields or is everything going to beefier to accommodate that? And as far as getting around wet, muddy places have you had much trouble in a dually? Ive got an old ford ranger that I use to beat around the farm in so it's not like I'd be taking a ton truck out to check cows or anything just wondering more about normal use as far as the wear and tear would go

Back when I was a kid we hunted in the Texas Gulf Coast Marshes......better referred to as swamps. What worked best was a vehicle that could sink through the slosh and contact solid ground. We used modified Ford Model T's due to the skinny tires but with the small diameter we had limited depth penetration.

What worked best was an old war surplus Dodge power wagon with 9.00x 20's or something like that 4x4 with chains. Had the weight to sink to the solid ground and the traction to pull through it.

I ran duals on my farm truck but ran bias modified lug tires like were used befoe radials came out for better traction. Even at that, traction wasn't that great and servicing the inner tire was more of a problem than I cared to deal......my last dually.

 

[Texasmark]

I have been through several of your questions. I have had a o6 dura max 3500 since 12. Before that all hauling was with a 3/4 imho if pulling real weight no comparsion and feels safer. The 06 has air bags under it. In feb of 17 i bought a new 16 c&c chevy with a cm aluminum bed. If buying new i would look for a model year back, the savings are stupid. I kept the 06 dually and put a flat bed on it, just a lot better option for me. Fuel tank, air compresser, tools etc. I put a gooseneck brand bed on it and love it. It's painted not powder coated have friends with year or two old powder coated beds that look like rust crap. And the goose neck are cheaper than most. I got a deal on the c&C had the aluminum bed on it on the lot, i would not have payed what that bed cost. It looks great but not as tough and makes truck ride rougher when not loaded. This truck is usually under a trailer.
I sold that 10 year old not busted take off bed for 1200. I don't regret buying new but looked around. Keep in mind a C&C will be a bit longer and bed be little narrower vs a dually take off.
All that said next time around if i get the chance. Next truck will be a ford with a gooseneck bed with a trough going to the ball. I don't ever see going back to a 3/4 or regular bed. For running around i have a beater tacoma. All depends on your uses.
My workers now drive that old 3/4 the leaf springs broke and fell out of it yesterday

Have you had any kind of problems out of your 16? Ive got a couple dumb questions but I don't know the answer so I'm going to ask them. Would the wear and tear be worse on the front end of a dually compared to a 3/4 ton as far as getting around in pastures and hayfields or is everything going to beefier to accommodate that? And as far as getting around wet, muddy places have you had much trouble in a dually? Ive got an old ford ranger that I use to beat around the farm in so it's not like I'd be taking a ton truck out to check cows or anything just wondering more about normal use as far as the wear and tear would go

Back when I was a kid we hunted in the Texas Gulf Coast Marshes......better referred to as swamps. What worked best was a vehicle that could sink through the slosh and contact solid ground. We used modified Ford Model T's due to the skinny tires but with the small diameter we had limited depth penetration.

What worked best was an old war surplus Dodge power wagon with 9.00x 20's or something like that 4x4 with chains. Had the weight to sink to the solid ground and the traction to pull through it.

I ran duals on my farm truck but ran bias modified lug tires like were used before radials came out for better traction. Even at that, traction wasn't that great, mud would load up between the tires assisting in the "floating" that impeded traction, and servicing the inner tire was more of a problem than I cared to deal......my last dually.

 

[Lucky]

I've had both a 3/4 ton and a dually for about 10 yrs now and when it comes to towing heavy the dually wins hands down. When I say heavy I'm talking probably 10k and up not including the trailer. My 36' trailer weighs nearly 8k alone, now put a 100 hp tractor or 100hp dozer on it and the dually is just more stable. I don't notice a big difference pulling a cattle trailer or a 25' gooseneck load of hay unless it's real windy or roads are bad. One of my duallys is hard to park one isn't. That settles it you need to keep current rig and buy a new dually. Just kidding about last part only reason I have two is I have a reg cab C&C that I like so much I can't bring myself to sell it.

 

[callmefence]

Starting to think about upgrading to a newer truck. I'm currently in an 06 2500 Duramax. I hauled some hay for my uncle in his 3500 this summer and really, really liked pulling with the dually. Has anybody made the switch from a 3/4 to a 1 ton and regretted it? Also I would definitely want to go with a flatbed but have found a good deal on truck that currently has a regular bed. Anybody had any luck selling a bed they pulled off and replaced with a flatbed? Any recommendations on bed brands would be appreciated as well

If you're gonna work a truck and I mean daily. The benefits of the dually outwiegh the negatives. Last time I didn't buy a rolling chassis or a already rigged truck.
Was 2005. I bought a 3500 and 2500 on the same day. My wife sold the beds to a paint and body shop for 1500.00 ... for both.

 

[littletom]

I got a heck of a deal when i sold that bed off that 06 for 1200 looks like. Guy I go to church with runs a big junk yard put it on some parts list. It was skined up pretty bad but not busted. Having both i perfer the longer c&c over the take off. Is it true a c&c is down tuned from factory? Had some people tell me that.

 

[cfpinz]

I got a heck of a deal when i sold that bed off that 06 for 1200 looks like. Guy I go to church with runs a big junk yard put it on some parts list. It was skined up pretty bad but not busted. Having both i perfer the longer c&c over the take off. Is it true a c&c is down tuned from factory? Had some people tell me that.

The Fords go from 935 ft/lbs down to 750 when you go to a cab/chassis currently. Reason being is that the EPA mandates that both trucks emit the same amount of emissions and they consider the c/c trucks more likely to have a bed with higher weight/wind resistance installed and therefore have to use less fuel to produce less emissions. I read that there's some slight mechanical differences in the Ford versions, around the turbo and such.

I bought a non c/c truck for the first time this go round, not because of the increased power but the bed I wanted installed would not fit on a c/c truck (60" cab to axle) - it needed a 56" c/a.

 

[jltrent]

I got a heck of a deal when i sold that bed off that 06 for 1200 looks like. Guy I go to church with runs a big junk yard put it on some parts list. It was skined up pretty bad but not busted. Having both i perfer the longer c&c over the take off. Is it true a c&c is down tuned from factory? Had some people tell me that.

The Fords go from 935 ft/lbs down to 750 when you go to a cab/chassis currently. Reason being is that the EPA mandates that both trucks emit the same amount of emissions and they consider the c/c trucks more likely to have a bed with higher weight/wind resistance installed and therefore have to use less fuel to produce less emissions. I read that there's some slight mechanical differences in the Ford versions, around the turbo and such.

I bought a non c/c truck for the first time this go round, not because of the increased power but the bed I wanted installed would not fit on a c/c truck (60" cab to axle) - it needed a 56" c/a.

Interesting topic......a lot of good info.