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dun

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Any suggestions on how to remove the nails from metal siding that is nailed in the ridge part to the purlins when the nail head side is flat on the ground?

Thanks
 

bverellen

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Not sure if I am picturing exactly your predicament.

Can you use a sawzall with an 8" blade to sneak between the wood and the sheet metal?



bart.
 
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dun

dun

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Some way I need to drive the nail out so that I can reuse the metal. The raised part of the metal is only about a 1.2 inch with about 1.2 inch between the purlin and the metal.
Picture a polebarn with a wall tipped over so that the inside of the wall is up and the outside is flat on the ground.

LIke this bout 100 foot long sections
100_0474.jpg
 

upfrombottom

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That could be harder that Chinese Arithmetic to figure out, but I've done it before. I took a piece of 1 inch steel square stock and cut a slot in it so I could slide it under the lath and around the nail. It should fit in ridge just right. The slot is for the nail. And then took a crowbar put it between the square stock and lath and pried the lath up and away from the tin. According to how long the nails are and the thickness of the lath, you may not get it in one try. You may have to go all the way across getting as much as you can and come back and do it again to get them completely out. I had to do it to salvage an end wall of a barn that was completely blown out and laying flat on the ground. I hadn't read your last post, but you may be able to use a piece of 1 1/2" angle iron and do the same thing.
 

SEKDUTTON

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what kind of nails are there in the metal? is it ring shank nails with a rubber washer underneath the head? if it is a older pole barn im guessing what those are if say ur best bet is just with a flat pry bar, also called a nail bar. u can just in between the post and the tin with the nail bar and pry down on the tin wherever u think there is a nail slowly. do this at every nail and for the first couple dont try to get the nail completely out just pry it far enough out to get nail bar in by next nail so you dont bend the tin to bad.after u get the tin pushed down a little bit you might be able to hook a loggin chain around the pole only and hook it to a loader and have someone put some lift pressure on the pol so it wont have all the weight on the tin and then it oughta be alot easier. if they are ring shanks they will be hard as hell to come out becuase of the ripples on the length of the nail.
 
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dun

dun

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upfrombottom":pd91xbdp said:
That could be harder that Chinese Arithmetic to figure out, but I've done it before. I took a piece of 1 inch steel square stock and cut a slot in it so I could slide it under the lath and around the nail. It should fit in ridge just right. The slot is for the nail. And then took a crowbar put it between the square stock and lath and pried the lath up and away from the tin. According to how long the nails are and the thickness of the lath, you may not get it in one try. You may have to go all the way across getting as much as you can and come back and do it again to get them completely out. I had to do it to salvage an end wall of a barn that was completely blown out and laying flat on the ground. I hadn't read your last post, but you may be able to use a piece of 1 1/2" angle iron and do the same thing.
That's sort of waht I was thinking. A slotted wedge the would drive between the purlin and the sheet metal and push the nail out.
Yes they're ring shanked nails 2 1/2 inches long, only been in 3 years so there isn;t any slop in them yet.
 
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dun

dun

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1982vett":2756n1bi said:
I think you could get a long blade on a sawzall in their to cut the nail too.
Then how do I get the nail out tha is cut off. We're saving (so far) about 95% of the wood.
 

Kingfisher

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dun":3d3rcj36 said:
Any suggestions on how to remove the nails from metal siding that is nailed in the ridge part to the purlins when the nail head side is flat on the ground?

Thanks

How about with an " air hammer?"
 

1982vett

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dun":1bzcm0kk said:
1982vett":1bzcm0kk said:
I think you could get a long blade on a sawzall in their to cut the nail too.
Then how do I get the nail out tha is cut off. We're saving (so far) about 95% of the wood.
A really good cats paw nail puller I guess, but is it that important that the nail comes out? Even if you reuse the lumber (without remilling) ya just have to check where you are going to make a cut.
 

3waycross

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Not being a smarta$$ Dun but you just might not get to have it both ways. If those ringshanks do their job they ain't coming out anytime soon.
 

Angus Cowman

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1982vett":bz50wg12 said:
dun":bz50wg12 said:
1982vett":bz50wg12 said:
I think you could get a long blade on a sawzall in their to cut the nail too.
Then how do I get the nail out tha is cut off. We're saving (so far) about 95% of the wood.
A really good cats paw nail puller I guess, but is it that important that the nail comes out? Even if you reuse the lumber (without remilling) ya just have to check where you are going to make a cut.
we use a cats paw and pull some , alot of times we just grind em flush and go on
we also run good carbide tipped demo blades on our skil saws so we don't worry about hitting nails if we have to cut a board
 

Tim

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Then how do I get the nail out tha is cut off. We're saving (so far) about 95% of the wood.[/quote]

Again like 1982vett said with the sawzall cut it flush with the board or just hammer it into the board.
 

novatech

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With ring shanks you will no doubt bend most of the metal up trying to pry out. That is if you don't pull the head through. You might try a skill saw and carbide blade. Cut through the perlin at every nail. The sawall is not a bad idea with a fine tooth metal cutting blade.
Prying may work if you maybe could cut a slot into a half piece of pipe the same radius as the metal.The slot would go on both sides of the nail. Pry between the pipe and the perlin.
 

MO_cows

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Sawzall for cutting the nails to get the metal loose. Trying to pry the nails out will likely put kinks in the steel at best. Depending on your plans for the wood, the nails left in it might not even be in the way. Cross that bridge when you come to it.
 
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dun

dun

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3waycross":11xbojn6 said:
Not being a smarta$$ Dun but you just might not get to have it both ways. If those ringshanks do their job they ain't coming out anytime soon.
They're actaully coming out pretty good, just takes a little patience. Since I don;t know what I'll be using the wood for I prefer to pull all the nails. By the time I would get around to using them I would forget and sure as shooting I'ld hit a nail with the saw.
 

tytower

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I don´t know what a ¨ring shanked¨ nail is . On corrugated iron we use a ¨cup head nail¨ .The way to get them out is with a crows foot bar ,thats the one with a u bend and claws and hit it from the back with a hammer under the cup head and the nail lifts out as the claws go under

You can make a timber piece to sit in the flat to lever against if wanted
 

1982vett

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Tytower, a ring shank is a nail that has a grove that "rings" around the nail for gripping. I guess they are much like a cup head except the rings are on from the point to about the head instead of the top of the nail at the head.
annular_ring_drywall.jpg

(they come in many sized, not just drywall....)
 

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