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<blockquote data-quote="DiamondSCattleCo" data-source="post: 664882" data-attributes="member: 2862"><p>Naw, I run a good dino oil. I personally use PetroCanada Duron 15w40 (10w30 in the winter). By the time synthetic oil was affordable and mainstream, most of my tractors had thousands of hours on them and I was hesitant to switch to a higher detergent synthetic. If I ever buy a new tractor, I will switch to synthetic immediately. Many guys are putting 500 hours on synthetic changes with no ill effects. I personally think thats pushing it, but their engines are holding just fine.</p><p></p><p>I believe the secrets to long diesel engine life are as follows:</p><p>1) run high end oil. Not necessarily synthetic, as many synthetics aren't as good as PetroCan Duron or Shell Rotella. Stay away from cheap crap oils like WallyWorld or Co-Op branded stuff.</p><p></p><p>2) Keep air and fuel filters clean. People don't seem to understand how much crap gets into the cylinders on the air side.</p><p></p><p>3) Use only high end filters. Leave the Wix, Napa and Fram filters on the shelves. Buy either manufacturer branded, Fleetguard or Donaldson.</p><p></p><p>4) Let the tractor warm up for a while before using it.</p><p></p><p>5) Let the tractor cool down for a bit when done.</p><p></p><p>6) Always run a tractor at its recommended operating temperature. That'll be somewhere between 160F and 210F. Running colder causes cylinder wall wash. If you have to, cover it the engine in, even in the summer time.</p><p></p><p>7) Pick an RPM that gets the job done and stay there. Keep your foot off the foot throttle. Diesel engines don't appreciate variable revs. Make sure the RPMs you choose are "comfortable" for the engine. By comfortable, I mean choose a place where the torque is enough to do the job at hand. For loader tractor work, you may have to go several hundred RPM past that point. But you shouldn't be running redline or even rated PTO for loader work. There is simply no need, unless you don't have enough HP.</p><p></p><p>Rod</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DiamondSCattleCo, post: 664882, member: 2862"] Naw, I run a good dino oil. I personally use PetroCanada Duron 15w40 (10w30 in the winter). By the time synthetic oil was affordable and mainstream, most of my tractors had thousands of hours on them and I was hesitant to switch to a higher detergent synthetic. If I ever buy a new tractor, I will switch to synthetic immediately. Many guys are putting 500 hours on synthetic changes with no ill effects. I personally think thats pushing it, but their engines are holding just fine. I believe the secrets to long diesel engine life are as follows: 1) run high end oil. Not necessarily synthetic, as many synthetics aren't as good as PetroCan Duron or Shell Rotella. Stay away from cheap crap oils like WallyWorld or Co-Op branded stuff. 2) Keep air and fuel filters clean. People don't seem to understand how much crap gets into the cylinders on the air side. 3) Use only high end filters. Leave the Wix, Napa and Fram filters on the shelves. Buy either manufacturer branded, Fleetguard or Donaldson. 4) Let the tractor warm up for a while before using it. 5) Let the tractor cool down for a bit when done. 6) Always run a tractor at its recommended operating temperature. That'll be somewhere between 160F and 210F. Running colder causes cylinder wall wash. If you have to, cover it the engine in, even in the summer time. 7) Pick an RPM that gets the job done and stay there. Keep your foot off the foot throttle. Diesel engines don't appreciate variable revs. Make sure the RPMs you choose are "comfortable" for the engine. By comfortable, I mean choose a place where the torque is enough to do the job at hand. For loader tractor work, you may have to go several hundred RPM past that point. But you shouldn't be running redline or even rated PTO for loader work. There is simply no need, unless you don't have enough HP. Rod [/QUOTE]
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