Livestock Trailer Side Panel Repair/Replacement

[dieselbeef]

yer mental alright..hey if yer worried bout the crossmembers.. drill a hole and put a ss bolt thu each end into the framerails..the weld wont fail and the angle would hafta rust in half to fail..but the boards wll hold the animals in really..even if the weld broke. they run longways

 

[4x4dually]

I wouldn't have done it that way from the start, however, I'm sure they will be fine since they have hauled a million pounds of hamburger and haven't broken yet. I will also be adding 13 more cross-members since the rubber floor requires 9" centers. Now that I'm out of the stocker binnus....thank GOD...I'll only be hauling 16 weaned calves once a year and what ever show pigs momma and the kids decide to haul all over the state.

This is the flooring I bought but I'm running it long ways, not side to side, since my cross-members aren't set up to do that. Those 24 foot long extrusions are some heavy SOB's.

http://www.shelbytrailer.com/

They say Comanche, OK, but I picked mine up from the extrusion plant which is just outside of Duncan, OK.

 

[dieselbeef]

how bout recycled plastic decking boards there mr fancypants

 

[highgrit]

Well I'm as lost as cooter brown now. Please post a picture of the 13 cross members when you get them installed. Are you putting the rubber down front to back, or side to side?

 

[4x4dually]

Well I'm as lost as cooter brown now. Please post a picture of the 13 cross members when you get them installed. Are you putting the rubber down front to back, or side to side?

The OEM member run side to side, but they are on 18-19 centers. I need to add one more between each of them. The new floor will run front to back just like the OEM boards.

 

[highgrit]

Well it will work that way. How about leaning a couple of inches on each side as a channel. That way it would be easy to wash out and never rust out.

 

[4x4dually]

Well it will work that way. How about leaning a couple of inches on each side as a channel. That way it would be easy to wash out and never rust out.

I'm assuming you meant "leaving" a few inches. Yes, that is exactly what I plan to do. The OEM had boards right up next to the side panels. No way to keep it cleaned out.

 

[4x4dually]

I think if I add a few more members, I can just teach the cattle to stand on them and not even need a floor. LOL

Apparently the camera didn't focus too well, but this 3/16 steel is at the limit of my mig.

I got all my new lights ordered......$279 worth! :shock:

They have everything...all LED, sealed, submergible, shock-resistant, etc.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/

 

[dieselbeef]

i wanna see the pics of you laying on yer back welding it...those are the easy welds..one less cow now with all that extra wieght

got plenty of weld on it..if the cows dont bitch its good enough right?

 

[4x4dually]

I've still got to lay down and weld the outer ends upside down. I saved that for tonight. My ass was worn out after putting those in last night. I did half then went to coach tee-ball practice then back to it. I'm a little sore today. LOL Old man syndrome. I soooo wish I could flip the trailer over and not eat spatter in the face. LOL

 

[M.Magis]

I'm in the middle of the same project. Is that 1/8" plate around the base? Do you mind me asking how much that ran you? I'm welding in some more supports this week, and it would be a good time to add the plate to cover any weak spots in the side panels, though I'm not sure how to cut it. Steel supplier will cut it, but at $5/cut it adds up quick.

 

[4x4dually]

I haven't added any plating on the sides yet. I will add 4" x 1/8" thk plates on the outside then longer strips of it on the inside. I'll just chop saw the pieces to fit in between the uprights when I get to it. At least that is my plan. This is what I'm going to do as of right now.

Edit: to answer your question.....4" x 1/8" Thk flat strap locally is $1.15 /ft after 100 ft.

Currently:

Inside patch:

Outside patch:

Cross-section:

I emailed Circle D to see if they had any suggestions without telling them what I was going to do. Their response was almost identical to what I was planning.

"After looking at the picture of the rust issue along the bottom there is a fix. The easiest would be adding pieces of 3/16" X 4" flat directly on top of the main frame between each upright on the outside. Grinding the welds on top of the frame where it was originally welded to the side panel would allow the flat to sit evenly on top of the frame. Welding the flat to the top of the frame, to each upright side and then to the bottom of the side panel would make a great fix. I would suggest caulking the top of the new flat against the side panel to eliminate a place for moisture to get between. "

Personally, I think calking is ridiculous. Design things so they don't need calked. That is the cheap way out of a poor design. $.02

 

[M-5]

If you do chalk it use butyl caulk sonneborn NP1

 

[4x4dually]

If you do chalk it use butyl caulk sonneborn NP1

Thanks!

Here is the light scheme. I forgot to order a tag light...but that will be added. I tag my trailers just to keep the VIN in the state repository in case it ever gets stolen. $9 a year in OK.

The dual faced, fender-mount, signal lights are so I can make sure my signals are working by simply looking in the mirror.

 

[hurleyjd]

Looks like the outside vertical supports are maybe 1 x 2. I think I would get the same materials and cut lengths to fit between the uprights and placed horzional. Leave a gap of about 2 inches between the top of the angle frame and the tube between the up rights. Trim all of the damage on the sheet metal flush with the bottom of horzional tube. This gap will let the trailer air out and dry and prevent any future damage. Also I might think about sand blasting the inside and having a bed liner sprayed in.

 

[M.Magis]

I thought I was the only one to model up all of my projects.
Regarding the caulk, what can you change in your design to prevent moisture from getting behind the inside flat? Allowing an escape out the bottom would help for a while, until it gets filled with crap. I haven't looked at mine too close yet, so maybe it's something I haven't seen.

 

[4x4dually]

I model EVERYTHING. It is form of OCD. LOL

Found these little jewels. They simply replace the license plate bolts. I just need to find an alternate mounting location since the rear door has a slider.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinf ... 1685/3935/

 

[M-5]

I model nothing except in my head and its liable to change mid stream. I adjust and adapt everything. The time spent modeling is time that could be spent building IMO.

 

[4x4dually]

I model nothing except in my head and its liable to change mid stream. I adjust and adapt everything. The time spent modeling is time that could be spent building IMO.

I see your point but raise you a "model it and find the issues before hand and only build once." :lol:

 

[M-5]

I model nothing except in my head and its liable to change mid stream. I adjust and adapt everything. The time spent modeling is time that could be spent building IMO.

I see your point but raise you a "model it and find the issues before hand and only build once." :lol:

Very good but I call you and say why be ordinary when u can be unique and have something "one of a Kind" Im a "there are no problem only solutions kind of guy" ;-)

I have auto cad In my HEAD.


I do admire people that have the foresight and patience to do what your doing Tho. its very impressive to me.