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I keep a tactical flashlight hanging on a hook by the back door. I started carrying it if I walked out of the house at night a couple of years ago after I drove up to the back of the house and there was a rattlesnake layed out next to the door step. I don't even like turning on headlights when I'm off road at night.
 
sstterry said:
You don't have to touch them, only get close to them to be electrocuted.

I wont argue that Dave shouldn't mess with it but lets not get carried away.... :lol:
 
Ohio Cowboy said:
sstterry said:
You don't have to touch them, only get close to them to be electrocuted.

I wont argue that Dave shouldn't mess with it but lets not get carried away.... :lol:
Even at 7200V you still have to get pretty close for the air gap to be jumped, but I ain't about to tempt fate.
Look at a spark plug with 40,000v. It'll jump the .020 air gap but not the 1/4 gap to the side of the plug.
On line in voltage, lots depends on some variables including atmospheric pressure, humidity and any pollutants in the air but I want yards, not inches or even a foot safety gap, and still would be nervous as heck.
Got hit by indirect lightening when I was young......it HURTS.
Dave did the smart thing.
 
Ohio Cowboy said:
sstterry said:
You don't have to touch them, only get close to them to be electrocuted.

I wont argue that Dave shouldn't mess with it but lets not get carried away.... :lol:

"Strike Distance" is what it is referred to at some the Utilities. For instance, the strike distance of a 346kv line is roughly 40 inches. The higher the voltage the more distance the electricity can jump or arc. Ever set that spark on your electric fence? Same principle only very low voltage. Humans are wet and squishy making us excellent conductors.

And as a PSA, everyone should know that all those power lines above the road or your barn are most likely not covered. They rely on what is called "air insulation".
 
"Strike Distance" is what it is referred to at some the Utilities. For instance, the strike distance of a 346kv line is roughly 40 inches. The higher the voltage the more distance the electricity can jump or arc. Ever set that spark on your electric fence? Same principle only very low voltage. Humans are wet and squishy making us excellent conductors.

And as a PSA, everyone should know that all those power lines above the road or your barn are most likely not covered. They rely on what is called "air insulation".

Your fence should actually have very high voltage. 345kv isnt anything even comparable to the same animal as 7kv. Actually just got done handling some live 7kv, these high winds are making for lots of work. And even better service announcement would be to treat all lines as energized, even the covered ones offer little to no true protection. Stay safe my friends
 
The Idaho power guy came yesterday. He looked at it and said it was my light not one of theirs. For $10 a month they would install one and service it. In the discussion I mentioned the photocell and why I thought it might be out. He said well I have some of those and went up and installed one. He stuck his glove over it and said it didn't work but he left the new one there. Told me to get a new bulb and one day when he was going by he would stop and install it. But once it got dark out the light came on. I guess the new photocell worked, his glove didn't. I will go ahead and pick up a new bulb anyway. If he is going to be nice enough to stop and install it for free, I am going to have the bulb here for him to do it.
 
What got me was him saying he would stop on his way by and put in a new bulb. Way by to where? It is 15 miles to the next ranch. Then another 25 miles to Unity with just a few scattered ranches along the way. So few people between here and there that they have a hard time keeping the school open in Unity. But who am I to argue. Stop on your way by.
 
Dave said:
What got me was him saying he would stop on his way by and put in a new bulb. Way by to where? It is 15 miles to the next ranch. Then another 25 miles to Unity with just a few scattered ranches along the way. So few people between here and there that they have a hard time keeping the school open in Unity. But who am I to argue. Stop on your way by.

did he tell you which bulb to buy ?? sodium or metal hailide
 
M-5 said:
Dave said:
What got me was him saying he would stop on his way by and put in a new bulb. Way by to where? It is 15 miles to the next ranch. Then another 25 miles to Unity with just a few scattered ranches along the way. So few people between here and there that they have a hard time keeping the school open in Unity. But who am I to argue. Stop on your way by.

did he tell you which bulb to buy ?? sodium or metal hailide

175 watt Mercury vapor. Picked it up at Ace hardware today. Hung it on the side of the pole like he asked in case I am not home when he stops.
 
I'm going to have to fire up my yard light here soon with calving time here.. used to be cheap to run but not so much anymore... 150 HPS, gives decent light though... Photocell doesn't work on it either, but it's stuck on so I just have it on a timer.
 
M-5 said:
FWIW the LED equivalent to theses light put out as much or more light . All you have to do is disable the transformer in the housing wire the socket 110 .

I'm not sure I understand. Are you meaning a 12V LED can be converted?
I went to the trouble of wiring two cheap 110V-12V transformers together to power my 30" light bar to light up my night pen. If I could convert it to run on straight 110V would be much nicer.
 
Silver said:
M-5 said:
FWIW the LED equivalent to theses light put out as much or more light . All you have to do is disable the transformer in the housing wire the socket 110 .

I'm not sure I understand. Are you meaning a 12V LED can be converted?
I went to the trouble of wiring two cheap 110V-12V transformers together to power my 30" light bar to light up my night pen. If I could convert it to run on straight 110V would be much nicer.

Not 12V . The LED 110v lights you buy are plug and play . to use the old yard light bases you disable the transformer and wire the screwin base 1 hot 1 neutral and screw the LED bulb in. I have 2 - 22000 lumen high bay lights under my new barn and in the open there are no shadows they are 110v. you can convert florescent bases to use led bulbs by doing away with the ballast.
 
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