Learning AC Repair

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Little off topic but Stonewall Joe's comment about YouTube university made me think of some of the things YT has helped me out with. Currently I am trying to learn to bend EMT conduit for the wiring in my new barn. I really thought it would be fairly straight forward. And maybe it is for some folks but after about an hour of ruining conduit I found myself severely humbled and bingeing on YT videos. Maybe I'll be an expert today when I try again.
 
There are 25,400 microns in 1 hg, to assure all moisture is removed from a system you must reach a vacuum level of 500 microns or less, many manufacturers want 400 microns. Analog gauges are not accurate enough to read that. A lot of people don't use a micron gauge and I have been guilty myself when in a hurry, but that is the correct way to assure all moisture is out of the system and moisture is a problem in a refrigerant circuit, especially with many of the new oils like POE and PAG that absorb moisture. The old refrigerants and oils were more forgiving.

I understand that and assume its a residential/commercial thing? Because inn practical automotive/equipment training/certification/application I've never seen nor heard of anyone measuring it to the micron. Working conditions for a field service tech in the equipment world is much different then a residential/commercial HVAC guy so sometimes things are a bit different.
 
Little off topic but Stonewall Joe's comment about YouTube university made me think of some of the things YT has helped me out with. Currently I am trying to learn to bend EMT conduit for the wiring in my new barn. I really thought it would be fairly straight forward. And maybe it is for some folks but after about an hour of ruining conduit I found myself severely humbled and bingeing on YT videos. Maybe I'll be an expert today when I try again.
Pretty easy to bend the conduit, but bending at the correct location and orientation requires more effort. Do I line up with the arrow symbol or the star symbol? Do I need to add or subtract from the measurement when I place the bender on the conduit? More complicated than I expected. Definitely need to buy some extra pieces.

I did the electrical work several years back in a new equine and small ruminant building at the vet clinic. I never expected it to be so complicated. I got it figured out but haven't done any since.
 
I understand that and assume its a residential/commercial thing? Because inn practical automotive/equipment training/certification/application I've never seen nor heard of anyone measuring it to the micron. Working conditions for a field service tech in the equipment world is much different then a residential/commercial HVAC guy so sometimes things are a bit different.
You're probably correct but that is also probably why I hear of people having constant issues with their tractor AC, because things are not done right in the first place which causes other issues. I only have open station tractors, but after talking to and offering phone tech support to neighbors and friends with AC on tractors, I'm glad I don't have one with AC. TBH with the amount of dirt I'm surprised they work at all unless properly cleaned daily when being used all day. I know if the AC goes out on one of the closed station tractors in Arkansas in the summer, you can't hardly stand to be in the cab. In the winter, I wish I had a closed station with heat though.
 
Keep the condenser and evaporater clean and AC in equipment is as reliable as most cars on the road.

Operators rarely clean things out good enough causing issues. Then things ice up/overheat/blow apart/etc. Then people who know no better replace the blown hose and "toss a couple of cans" of R134a in it and complain how it doesn't work good anymore.

Most farmers wouldn't attempt to repair their home AC system, but are quick to "repair" the AC in their tractor.

Also the sale and use of "stop leak" products should be outlawed as well.
 
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Keep the condenser and evaporater clean and AC in equipment is as reliable as most cars on the road.

Operators rarely clean things out good enough causing issues. Then things ice up/overheat/blow apart/etc. Then people who know no better replace the blown hose and "toss a couple of cans" of R134a in it and complain how it doesn't work good anymore.

Most farmers wouldn't attempt to repair their home AC system, but are quick to "repair" the AC in their tractor.

Also the sale and use of "stop leak" products should be outlawed as well.
Another problem that rears its head with tractor AC a lot is that people don't really know how to use it to best effect. In hot weather one should run the fan on high, if you get too cold turn the temp up, don't turn the fan down.
 
Also the heater core/evaporater box drains need to be kept clean. Often the drains plug up and then condensation covers the evaporater mixing with the dirt/dust and coating it in a slurry of muck that significantly reduces its effectiveness.
 
If you have a cab tractor or any tractor these are a must. Keeping the air filter clean, radiator, condenser, intercooler radiator free of dust dirt or whatever is the life of them. This is as important as changing the oil. An overheated engine does not last long. I use these daily. They have a blowout sale right now going on. You can get in tight places with these, and I always blow out with air before water. Seeds will swell with water so I get what I can with air first.

 
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If you have a cab tractor or any tractor these are a must. Keeping the air filter clean, radiator, condenser, intercooler radiator free of dust dirt or whatever is the life of them. This is as important as changing the oil. An overheated engine does not last long. I use these daily. They have a blow out sale right now going on.

No cab tractor but these are what I have to keep my radiators clean.
 
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