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Kubota M9540HD buying advice

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Hardin Farms

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Hey guys, looking into a kubota M9540 cabbed tractor, 4wd, loader.. Has the ultra grand cab with air ride? seat. The tractor is around an 08 or 09 model. Been very well cared for. Interior cleans up super nice, exterior looks really good. The tractor was purchased new w/o a loader and a new kubota loader was put on it 3 years ago. The bucket is practically new and it comes with a new hay spear as well. It was priced to me at $27,500 and from what i can tell it seems to be a pretty good deal on a well cared for, pre emissions tractor. My only concern is that it does have 5200 hours on it. It has spent its last 3 years as a farm/hay tractor. The current owner is a close friend of mine and i know he's very meticulous. When he purchased it, he replaced the entire a/c system and put a new starter on it. The only thing i can find wrong with the tractor is that it takes just a few seconds when going from forward to reverse with the hydraulic shuttle when COLD. After it warms up, it seems to be fine. It has a small hydraulic leak at the shuttle valve, the kubota dealer says there's likely an o-ring there. I wont put 100 hours a year on it, but i'm in dire need of a decent tractor. I'll be using it for general farm work. Bush hog, light loader work, a little haying here and there.

Give me your opinions pleases!! Thanks in advance
 

DCB4

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We have a9540 around that same year. Bought it new. Been an absolutely stellar tractor. Has 3700 hours on it now. Never had the first mechanical problem out of it. AC issues are the only gripe I’ve had with it. We’ve put 3 compressors in the last 5 years and 1 condenser. We bought a new tractor last year and would have bought another new Kubota if not for the local service being terrible. Went with a jd instead. All that being said the 9540 is an excellent unit and wouldn’t hesitate to buy one especially at the price you’re talking about
 

TCRanch

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We bought M7040 4wd in 2007 . Absolutely best tractor we've ever had.
Ours is a 2009. Couple years ago, Hubby was looking at new ones (larger cab space, primarily) and our sales rep said keep the one we have. Very few problems, best customer service ever and don't have to deal with the new DEF issues - which is a huge PITA with the Kubota track loader.
 
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Hardin Farms

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Thank for the replies guys. I guess the hours just scared me a little, but for the money I should be okay. At 5,000 hours it has proven itself a worthy workhorse.

It does have a hydraulic leak where the brake master cylinder rods come through the cab, but a seal is available for that. Also one at the shuttle valve, but it appears that valve body is comprised of mostly orings as well.

Can’t really find anything else wrong with the machine. It seems to be a solid unit. I guess I need to come off the pocket book.

If it can be bought for 26,500, I think I’ll go for it.
 
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Hardin Farms

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We have a9540 around that same year. Bought it new. Been an absolutely stellar tractor. Has 3700 hours on it now. Never had the first mechanical problem out of it. AC issues are the only gripe I’ve had with it. We’ve put 3 compressors in the last 5 years and 1 condenser. We bought a new tractor last year and would have bought another new Kubota if not for the local service being terrible. Went with a jd instead. All that being said the 9540 is an excellent unit and wouldn’t hesitate to buy one especially at the price you’re talking about
From what I gather, that is the number 1 complaint on these tractors. The entire ac system was replaced 3 years ago and a new compressor was put on it this spring.(clutch on old compressor went out). He's good about keeping the condenser and stuff blown out pretty much daily when using it. So hopefully that wouldn't be something i had to deal with to soon.
 
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Hardin Farms

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CD9462DA-1BFF-4630-AA25-C2C9354CEC64.jpegF070E071-EF5B-463D-871C-48E9CDA56025.jpeg
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Here are a few pictures i grabbed of it. The matt was taken out due to the hydraulic leak in the cab, but its cleaned up and ready to go back in when i get the leak fixed.
 

Atimm693

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Neighbor has one a 5040. It's been good for him. It caught on fire last year, had a mouse nest on the exhaust, hood access is dismal without removing it. I was able to repair the wiring and fuse panel to get him going again, thankfully it didn't spread very far.

Usually 8000 hours is where you will start to need some significant repairs.
 
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Hardin Farms

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Neighbor has one a 5040. It's been good for him. It caught on fire last year, had a mouse nest on the exhaust, hood access is dismal without removing it. I was able to repair the wiring and fuse panel to get him going again, thankfully it didn't spread very far.

Usually 8000 hours is where you will start to need some significant repairs.
what constitutes significant repairs? I have a friend that rebuilds injectors and pumps, so i wouldn't be out much money there. I'm not concerned with rebuilding the clutch pack in the shuttle.. Shouldn't be much different than a clutch pack in an automatic trans. What else would you begin watching for once the hours get there? Hydraulic pump? engine wear? those type things?
 

Atimm693

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what constitutes significant repairs? I have a friend that rebuilds injectors and pumps, so i wouldn't be out much money there. I'm not concerned with rebuilding the clutch pack in the shuttle.. Shouldn't be much different than a clutch pack in an automatic trans. What else would you begin watching for once the hours get there? Hydraulic pump? engine wear? those type things?

Significant may be turbo replacement, PTO/traction clutch replacement, hydraulic pump, etc. Not nearly enough to scrap the tractor, but enough to put a dent in your bank account.

Depending on where that shuttle is, could be cheap or very expensive. On many the tractor has to be split to repair, the parts are not usually expensive but the labor is.

Engines are normally showing their age by that time. They'll have some blow by, may need fuel system work, turbo may not be super healthy, and will probably have developed a few leaks.

By 10,000 it will likely need an overhaul, but that really depends on the life of the engine and how hard it is run. The industry has gone to smaller engines that are turned up pretty high to get rated power, which is hard on them.
 
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Hardin Farms

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Significant may be turbo replacement, PTO/traction clutch replacement, hydraulic pump, etc. Not nearly enough to scrap the tractor, but enough to put a dent in your bank account.

Depending on where that shuttle is, could be cheap or very expensive. On many the tractor has to be split to repair, the parts are not usually expensive but the labor is.

Engines are normally showing their age by that time. They'll have some blow by, may need fuel system work, turbo may not be super healthy, and will probably have developed a few leaks.

By 10,000 it will likely need an overhaul, but that really depends on the life of the engine and how hard it is run. The industry has gone to smaller engines that are turned up pretty high to get rated power, which is hard on them.
Thats what i was expecting. I'll do all of my own labor so i can offset the cost some. I have built a set of splitting stands that work really well for these tractors.

I'm not scared of an over haul, but i wanted to be sure i could get a few years out of it before i had to do it. I'm a welder and machinist by trade and my father builds race engines and transmissions for a living, so feel pretty confident we can handle most any of the labor of overhauls, turbos or clutches.

Thanks for your input.
 

jltrent

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The rubber looks fairly decent on that one and not hardly barefoot. Rubber replacement on one of those can set you back 3 thousand plus. I looked at a tractor I was pretty interested in a few days ago (found on marketplace) and the guy made me a price. It needed rubber all the way around (dry rotten as the tractor had super low hours for the model), but the rest of the tractor looked solid. I counteroffer his offer minus the cost of one rear tire (told him that) and so far have not heard back. His offer was reasonable, but add the new rubber and it was borderline. I am still thinking about it, but I hope somebody else takes it before I think myself into buying it.

I always look at the drawbar hole/lift arm holes for wear as you can put a skirt and lipstick on a hog and make it look good, but those holes still show the wear. The drawbar hole shows some wear, but not over the top.
 
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cfpinz

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I always look at the drawbar hole/lift arm holes for wear as you can put a skirt and lipstick on a hog and make it look good, but those holes still show the wear. The drawbar hole shows some wear, but not over the top.
Went to look at some tractors last month with my father in law, and you won't believe the number of ones we saw with flipped drawbars. Tractor jockeys are the modern day horse traders!
 
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Hardin Farms

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I’d sa
The rubber looks fairly decent on that one and not hardly barefoot. Rubber replacement on one of those can set you back 3 thousand plus. I looked at a tractor I was pretty interested in a few days ago (found on marketplace) and the guy made me a price. It needed rubber all the way around (dry rotten as the tractor had super low hours for the model), but the rest of the tractor looked solid. I counteroffer his offer minus the cost of one rear tire (told him that) and so far have not heard back. His offer was reasonable, but add the new rubber and it was borderline. I am still thinking about it, but I hope somebody else takes it before I think myself into buying it.

I always look at the drawbar hole/lift arm holes for wear as you can put a skirt and lipstick on a hog and make it look good, but those holes still show the wear. The drawbar hole shows some wear, but not over the top.
I’d say the tires would get me by a good 5-10 years, unless I cut one...which I’m prone to do! None of the draw par or lift arms seem worn much at all on this thing. In appearance it’s a 1500 hour tractor. I’ve seen rougher with much lower hours.
 

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