Kubota M9000 A/C Compressor Replacement

[dvcochran]

The A/C compressor on my M9000 locked up today. Went from cooling great to squealing. Does anyone have service literature for the replacements procedures? I have never replaced a tractor compressor but lots of auto units. Wondering how the services bulletin says to flush the system. The serial number is M900-10875.
I was cutting hay when it happened and it really stinks because it is the only tractor I have that can pull the baler so I will have to suffer through without A/C until it is done.

Looking online a Denso compressor is $600-$700. I see a lot of unknown brand compressors that match the Kubota part number but look different for around $300. Anybody have experience with these? I also see rebuilt Denso compressors for $400-$500. I have never used a rebuilt compressor. Any suggestions appreciated.
I plan to replace the dryer and expansion valve while in there.

 

[Porkchopfat]

I would think it should be similar to automotive. I would go with new denso for peace of mind. Also a great idea on the dryer and x valve. The real kicker is the price of flush, but if done correctly should give years of great service. If the condenser is a non flush like all modern automotive I would replace it as well. On cars they are cheap. The best place I have found for the flush is a company called 1800radiator if you have one local. But dang that flush is high like some quality forage seed high.

 

[jltrent]

I would go with OEM new compressor, new dryer, add back about 5 oz. of pac oil, vacuum out after the new compressor is installed, add the exact amount of Freon as listed it holds minus pac oil. I know this is taking a chance as sometimes (not all of the time the bad compressor will put particles in the system) This is just me, so you do what you want....I have did a couple of vehicles like this and no problems after thousands of miles. The flush would be great, and probably advisable to be 100% sure. The new dryer will get the moisture out of the system.....the new compressor is around $600, new dryer $50, flush $200, Freon $50, plus labor. On the vacuum you can look at what it draws out and see what it looks like and pretty much determine if the system it contaminated.

About 10 years ago my Home AC compressor went bad and the AC people said you have to replace the whole system. I sat a new 3 1/2 ton compressor unit outside, hooked it up, refilled and since then had no problems except replaced one compacitor a 15 minute job.

 

[True Grit Farms]

I have a tractor that I'm fixing on replacing the compressor, dryer and expansion valve. I bought alcohol and acetone to flush the system, will it work?

 

[jltrent]

I have a tractor that I'm fixing on replacing the compressor, dryer and expansion valve. I bought alcohol and acetone to flush the system, will it work?

Good ideal on the expansion valve replacement while the system is a part as it eliminates another possible problem.

 

[Atimm693]

I have a tractor that I'm fixing on replacing the compressor, dryer and expansion valve. I bought alcohol and acetone to flush the system, will it work?

A/C flush is not that expensive. I would just use the right stuff.

You'll have to add oil to the evaporator, drier, and condensor after flushing. The amounts can be found in a service manual.

The condenser is first in line after the compressor and usually catches most of the trash, which is why most simply choose to replace it.

 

[hurleyjd]

I have a tractor that I'm fixing on replacing the compressor, dryer and expansion valve. I bought alcohol and acetone to flush the system, will it work?

A/C flush is not that expensive. I would just use the right stuff.

You'll have to add oil to the evaporator, drier, and condensor after flushing. The amounts can be found in a service manual.

The condenser is first in line after the compressor and usually catches most of the trash, which is why most simply choose to replace it.

You can barrow a container from auto zone to use in flushing the system. After the flush I blow the lines and evaporator and condenser out with dry Nitrogen. You will have to have a regulator to do this.

 

[Hog catcher]

I have purchased the OEM compressors online for half the price from kubota. I don't remember which online store, but google the part number off the compressor.

 

[dvcochran]

You can barrow a container from auto zone to use in flushing the system. After the flush I blow the lines and evaporator and condenser out with dry Nitrogen. You will have to have a regulator to do this.

I was planning to use compressed air with a dryer system and extra inline filters. Any residual moisture would be removed when the vacuum is pulled. This is how we have done it in the past. Definitely the nitrogen would be the cleanest but I would have to get a bottle. I may be able to regulate with one of the cutting torch regulators but not sure they go low enough. See anything wrong with that idea?

 

[hurleyjd]

I would go with OEM new compressor, new dryer, add back about 5 oz. of pac oil, vacuum out after the new compressor is installed, add the exact amount of Freon as listed it holds minus pac oil. I know this is taking a chance as sometimes (not all of the time the bad compressor will put particles in the system) This is just me, so you do what you want....I have did a couple of vehicles like this and no problems after thousands of miles. The flush would be great, and probably advisable to be 100% sure. The new dryer will get the moisture out of the system.....the new compressor is around $600, new dryer $50, flush $200, Freon $50, plus labor. On the vacuum you can look at what it draws out and see what it looks like and pretty much determine if the system it contaminated.

About 10 years ago my Home AC compressor went bad and the AC people said you have to replace the whole system. I sat a new 3 1/2 ton compressor unit outside, hooked it up, refilled and since then had no problems except replaced one compacitor a 15 minute job.

This business is close to me and I can drive and get what I need. https://www.acparts.com/product-category/compressors/denso/

Also the new compressors I have bought and installed states on the instructions that do not add any oil as there is the right amount oil in the compressor from the manufacturer of the compressor.

 

[jltrent]

I would go with OEM new compressor, new dryer, add back about 5 oz. of pac oil, vacuum out after the new compressor is installed, add the exact amount of Freon as listed it holds minus pac oil. I know this is taking a chance as sometimes (not all of the time the bad compressor will put particles in the system) This is just me, so you do what you want....I have did a couple of vehicles like this and no problems after thousands of miles. The flush would be great, and probably advisable to be 100% sure. The new dryer will get the moisture out of the system.....the new compressor is around $600, new dryer $50, flush $200, Freon $50, plus labor. On the vacuum you can look at what it draws out and see what it looks like and pretty much determine if the system it contaminated.

About 10 years ago my Home AC compressor went bad and the AC people said you have to replace the whole system. I sat a new 3 1/2 ton compressor unit outside, hooked it up, refilled and since then had no problems except replaced one compacitor a 15 minute job.

This business is close to me and I can drive and get what I need. https://www.acparts.com/product-category/compressors/denso/

Also the new compressors I have bought and installed states on the instructions that do not add any oil as there is the right amount oil in the compressor from the manufacturer of the compressor.

Good information....thanks....I had to replace the evaporator and the AC guy said to pour 5 oz. of pac oil in before installation on it. It has been several years ago a cooled good, but not going to brag as if I do will go out today.

 

[dvcochran]

Good news. The compressor did Not go out. The tractor cooled very good most of today. Like yesterday it went out in the heat of the day (3:00-4:00). It appears the clutch is slipping; the compressor is barely turning when running but when the tractor is turned off the compressor turns easily by hand. Is it common for a failing clutch to start slipping after hours of working fine? Is there a procedure to test a clutch? Is there anything else I should check? I talked to my Kubota service manager (a "friend") and he said they do not have service bulletins on the tractor A/C systems. I wanted to call BS but didn't have a leg to stand on.
I must have grabbed the pulley yesterday because I thought it had locked up.

 

[hurleyjd]

Good news. The compressor did Not go out. The tractor cooled very good most of today. Like yesterday it went out in the heat of the day (3:00-4:00). It appears the clutch is slipping; the compressor is barely turning when running but when the tractor is turned off the compressor turns easily by hand. Is it common for a failing clutch to start slipping after hours of working fine? Is there a procedure to test a clutch? Is there anything else I should check? I talked to my Kubota service manager (a "friend") and he said they do not have service bulletins on the tractor A/C systems. I wanted to call BS but didn't have a leg to stand on.
I must have grabbed the pulley yesterday because I thought it had locked up.

Try attaching a wire from the positive side of the battery to the clutch and see if it locks up like it is supposed to. You may have a problem with the current getting to the clutch. There is a low high switch somewhere in the system that may be problematic. The wire to the battery is only to test the clutch and not to be used to keep things going.

 

[jltrent]

Hurley I like reading your post as you like to tinker....I always look at it as it is already torn up what have I got to loose. Sometimes I finish it off for good and amazing tinkering I get it fixed sometimes..with $100/hr. labor as what JD charged a neighbor recently I can afford to tinker some.

 

[Atimm693]

Good news. The compressor did Not go out. The tractor cooled very good most of today. Like yesterday it went out in the heat of the day (3:00-4:00). It appears the clutch is slipping; the compressor is barely turning when running but when the tractor is turned off the compressor turns easily by hand. Is it common for a failing clutch to start slipping after hours of working fine? Is there a procedure to test a clutch? Is there anything else I should check? I talked to my Kubota service manager (a "friend") and he said they do not have service bulletins on the tractor A/C systems. I wanted to call BS but didn't have a leg to stand on.
I must have grabbed the pulley yesterday because I thought it had locked up.

There is usually an air gap spec (gap between the clutch plate and pulley, measured with a feeler gauge), that can be checked and adjusted. You'd need a service manual for that.