Killer bees

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TexasJerseyMilker

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I don't know where to post this but it is about insects. A couple of years ago I bought a bee hive and a NUC, which is a small nuclear colony of 5 frames with a queen, brood, workers and honey to eat until they settle in. The queen and brood were Carnolian bees, a gentle race of bees from Europe. They had to be feed sugar water in the winter and spring because they did not have enough honey yet.

Well, that hive did well, overpopulated and swarmed. Thats when the queen and most of the bees fly off to find a new place to live. They hang from a tree branch or other object in a mass while scout bees fly out and look for a new place. The swarm landed on a nearby pear tree that could be cut off and lowered into a new empty hive and thats what I did. The swarm weighed about 6lbs and was estimated to be about 24,000 bees.
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Before they do this, the hive makes special queen cells out of comb with eggs that hatch and the bees feed them royal jelly that turns them into a queen (all the workers are sterile females). The first queen that hatches goes around and stings the others to death in their cells. Then, the virgin queen flies out wearing a perfume that attracts local drones that swarm after her. My well bred queen went out and mated with the local rifraf. The swarming process is how honey bees spread and reproduce.

Anyway, that hive is hive #one and the new hive is hive #two in a nearby location. Hive 1 swarmed 5 or 6 times this year, every time the the queen mated with the local hooligans', diluting more and more the gentle bee genetics. They have become incredibly aggressive. Meanwhile hive 2 has not swarmed so that queen still produces gentle bees.

Bees have an invasive parasite called varroa mites. They suck bee blood and can build up and in the winter and kill the whole hive. You have to treat the hives several times a year. You have to put in these sort of No Pest Strips in the hive that kills the little SOBs as they hatch over time. Anyway, it was time for me to treat the 'bee fleas' so the hive would not die. I knew they would be bad to deal with because a couple of months ago I opened the hive to check on things and they attacked, bouncing off my bee suit and even following me back to the house.

Well, I opened hive1 an angry cloud of bees rose and enveloped me with a roar. They were all over me trying to sting. I took off the two honey boxes then pulled frames aside, poked two of these strips down between the frames. They were getting more and more pissed off and I moved it revealing the second brood box. Savage barbaric bees were bouncing off my hood like popcorn. What complicated things even more is they had glued the whole thing together with propolis, a kind of thick glue they make out of tree sap and that had to be pried apart. Some bee covered frames that were stuck fell to the ground complicating things even more. Finally I got the whole hive put back together. On the way out I took a couple of frames of honey for myself. I actually think it is OK that they mated with wild aggressive bees over two years. That is how they survive and they make a ton of of honey.

Then I went over to hive #2 under the apple tree. It is a small population. I could see workers coming in with pollen sacks on their legs and they paid no attention. I took off the honey boxes and put strips in the brood boxes and bees just flew around humming softly like Hey man, whats happening? By the time I finished the job they had all gone back inside.

My bee mentor says what I need to do is re queen that aggressive hive. You buy a gentle bred queen she comes in the mail in a little cage. Then you find and kill the aggressive queen (A job I would not look forward to. How do you find her among thousands of attackers?) Then you put in a little cage with the new queen that has a small marshmellow stuffed in the doorway. The hive bees get used to her smell and they feed her. Eventually the marshmellow is eaten and she comes out and starts laying eggs. Meanwhile, all the aggressive bees get old and in a few weeks they are all dead and replaced by gentle bees. It really is quick fix he says.
 
Is the bee mentor local to you? Get him to come out, suit up, and find the aggressive queen since he knows how to do that....and kill her and install the new gentle dispositioned queen once you order her and she arrives...
 
Yes. find the queen in the hot hive and remove her. Add a mated queen to the hive in a cage with a fondant plug. It takes them three days to eat thru the fondant and release her. You should check this on the 3rd day. She's been releasing her pheromones for three days and she has won the hive over (with the original queen gone). I do this for hives I capture if the hive is hot. It is routine. eggs in the hive will hatch in 3 weeks. The bees will be nurse bees in the hive for three weeks. Then the bees will forage for 3 weeks. So 9 weeks post introduction of your queen, all original bees should be gone.

Quit letting them split on their own. You split the brood frames, honey frames, and put a gentle bred queen into the split you make. There are many instructional videos on the net on how to do this. If you let them make a queen, she will go and breed with a drone outside of your colony. She will then (potentially) bring aggressive traits to your hive. So buy your bred queens. It is the safest and surest way.

Nuc is short for nucleus. Core. You bought the nucleus of a hive. Nothing to do with nuclear.

Not sure where you are. I am in Hood County, Texas if that's close.
 
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I'm in Oregon but I'm a Texan and remember the killer bees. My husband still has a pith helmet with a bee veil on it for when he did brush control on his tractor. Those bees stung people to death. What a horrible way to go. Some idiot imported aggressive African bees to south America because of the enormous amount of honey they make and they spread north. It seems crossbreeding with the domestic bees as they spread north no longer such a problem.

I don't have another hive to split them to. Also, how am I supposed to find the aggressive queen in frames totally packed and covered with aggressive bees? I think there's another way to deal with this and it's kill the hive, start over. I sure like the gentle bees, I refer to them as my employees.
 
I'm in Oregon but I'm a Texan and remember the killer bees. My husband still has a pith helmet with a bee veil on it for when he did brush control on his tractor. Those bees stung people to death. What a horrible way to go. Some idiot imported aggressive African bees to south America because of the enormous amount of honey they make and they spread north. It seems crossbreeding with the domestic bees as they spread north no longer such a problem.

I don't have another hive to split them to. Also, how am I supposed to find the aggressive queen in frames totally packed and covered with aggressive bees? I think there's another way to deal with this and it's kill the hive, start over. I sure like the gentle bees, I refer to them as my employees.
Can't you smoke the hive to calm the bees down?
 
The Carnolian bees are supposed to be very easy going. They also are stated to be less apt to travel very far. So you must have some Cranky bees fairly close by.
 
Smoke does not work very well with this bunch.

"What if the queen doesn't want to be dethroned, and sends out the royal military to slaughter you .."

Actually, the queen is a sex slave. It is not like the royalty of Europe. It is more like the French revolution. When she gets too old and does not lay enough eggs anymore ("let them eat cake")to replace the workers and they go hungry they make and rear new queen cells and kill the queen. That is what my mentor says.
 
Get someone to help you find the queen. I could do it for you if I were close. You would then replace all aggressive bees in about 9 weeks in an established hive. Much better and cheaper than starting over. Remember that rain or other weather related issues can set them off. When you buy queens or new bees, get a marked queen if you have trouble identifying her.

Without management, you are going to wind up right back in this situation again eventually.

But it sounds like your mind is made. Good luck.
 
The county bee club here has a face book page. I've been to some meetings but they micromanage hives way too much for me. My mentor agrees they go overboard. . Meanwhile, if I just suit up and zip all the zippers I can do whatever I need to do. Which is treat the varroa mites, take some honey or check to see if they will need feeding in the winter. When my mentor gets over his knee replacement surgery he said he would bring me a queen since he and his partner breed them.

When we first moved here 4 years ago there was a honeybee colony inside the garage wall. We called a phone number and two guys came over with all the equipment to vacuum up, remove and salvage the bees. They were impressed that I spotted the queen. I already had a new empty hive and asked Why don't we put them in there? They both laughed and said the bees would just go back to the wall. They gave us some honey and where to get a nucleus colony. Yes I know they are not 'nuclear' colonies but that original NUC sure turned into a bomb
 
I just strained that 1 frame of honey I took from the barbarians. It is thick and dark and has a unique undertone of flavor, kind of berry-like piney-like. The blackberry bloom honey flow bloom is a big deal for honeybees here. The flavor of this honey is not like honey you get from the store. Yesterday I picked 8lbs of blackberries and froze them. I will puree and remove the seeds to make blackberry ice cream.
 

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