Keeping T posts straight

[greggy]

Ok fencing gurus....

Share your tips on how you keep T posts straight....as in not twisting....and I guess vertical....

I have hard clay and rock...and I need to keep ends straight, so how do you stop them twisting etc as you manually drive them....

Rock is a real tiger...it can shift them no matter what I try...

FWIW I am trying some extra large posts as strainers...so they need to be straight to connect the stay....but a piece of rock can throw things off at any stage it seems...

 

[wbvs58]

Greggy, we are granite country so rocks everywhere. I use a 2 stroke powered driver. I keep my toe on the side of the post to get the started to avoid that initial twist but when you hit rocks they either don't go any further or find their way between crevices whereby you have no say in what direction they go. It does not worry me if they are at an angle, just happy I have got them in in most cases. I then bend them so they sit vertical and plumb, doesn't matter what they are like underground.

Ken

 

[1982vett]

Sometimes you have to forego the clips and just saddle tie the wire to the post.

 

[M.Magis]

I haven't investigated too close, but I think a lot of posts have a "twist" built in, likely due to manufacturing process. I don't think the posts are twisted, but I suspect one of the ribs bends a bit during cooling, and that causes the posts to twist as its driven in the ground. Or maybe it's due to how the posts are sheared to length. I've noticed that most posts twist as soon as you start driving, no matter what the soil type, but then reach a point that they don't twist any more pretty quickly. They always twist the same direction.

I know this isn't a real answer, but I've resorted to starting mine twisted the opposite direction, and as I drive them in they end up square to the fence line. I wish I knew the answer.

 

[callmefence]

Post don't always drive plum, straight are to grade. Floating post is one step in building a fence. You go down the line after driving post with a level, a post driver and a post jack. Plumbing post and raising are lowering sometimes only a inch or so . So the top of the fence doesn't look like a wreck....tpost that twist can be very easily squared to the line by putting a large pipe wrench at just above ground level and twisting them in line.....
Again straighting and grading post, it's part of the process.

 

[greggy]

It only matters on these few that I am using as quasi strainers so the stay can connect square.

I did use a shifting spanner with the stay pipe to guide one straight...it then is out on the vertical....but I can wear that as it is only temp and a bit of a test....

Posts are the jumbo ones...not normal star post....should be able to cope with a moderate strain on hinge joint wire.....well....that is what I hope.....

The rock is a real bugger....and like you Ken....in some spots your just happy if your able to drive it in....I should take a photo of this one and where the stay needs to be anchored....it is all rock shelf...lol

 

[greggy]

I just do things differently I suppose...

I do not bend, twist nor even think of lifting back up once in, if you lift, and all the grip is gone, that post will pop out...

The bending, if you do that, the strength is compromised, I can see why you may need to do it sometimes....and is prob not so important if not a main post.

What I tried today, that worked well enough when driving in the rockier area, was I put a large shifting spanner, with about 15ft of pipe, I started the post and watched how it wanted to naturally turn, then put the pipe at an angle to hold the shifter and post the way I want it, the shifter jaws allow the post to slide past, but not work itself to 90 degrees...lol...it still was not 100%, but it worked well enough.

 

[callmefence]

I just do things differently I suppose...

I do not bend, twist nor even think of lifting back up once in, if you lift, and all the grip is gone, that post will pop out...

The bending, if you do that, the strength is compromised, I can see why you may need to do it sometimes....and is prob not so important if not a main post.

What I tried today, that worked well enough when driving in the rockier area, was I put a large shifting spanner, with about 15ft of pipe, I started the post and watched how it wanted to naturally turn, then put the pipe at an angle to hold the shifter and post the way I want it, the shifter jaws allow the post to slide past, but not work itself to 90 degrees...lol...it still was not 100%, but it worked well enough.

So your worried about compromised strength of a tpost by plumbing and grading them....but your using them for brace post??? Maybe I missed something in the translation. Could you help me out with a picture of this fence. I'm always ready to learn.

 

[greggy]

The ends are not normal t posts......are jumbo or max or something, a few makers have them. Driven in with manual rammer.

There is no way at one end to put a 100mm post anyway, well, not without a serious excavator.

On this line of fence I am not too worried either way as is probably temporary, have also found adjusting height upward is not a good idea, the clay tends to all lift and grip is lost. I do not seem to have an issue keeping them reasonably straight, it is twisting an issue at times, as I sit the fence on the flat side and I usually put offsets for hot wire, if the post is twisted, then that offset will put extra sideways pressure on the internal normal star posts as they wont be 90 degree to fence line..

Our posts have holes, it is pretty easy too tell how far to drive them, I also mark them with paint.

Will see how it fares when I strain a few more wires on the top, it will have more limitations vs a round steel post, it has advantage that I got a lot of way into ground that is not disturbed.

 

[greggy]

Here is a image of ground stay was on, so similar for post...




Will do some of the strainer later.

Has anyone seen a pilot ? something you can put on ground first that the post passes through that would stop it twisting ?

 

[M.Magis]

Not sure how a pilot would work? It would still twist as it entered the ground. I think squaring it up with a pipe wrench makes the most sense.

 

[callmefence]

Here is a image of ground stay was on, so similar for post...




Will do some of the strainer later.

Has anyone seen a pilot ? something you can put on ground first that the post passes through that would stop it twisting ?

If I'm seeing correctly you should be rock drilling that.

 

[greggy]

Not sure how a pilot would work? It would still twist as it entered the ground. I think squaring it up with a pipe wrench makes the most sense.

Good point, if rock is twisting it....in normal sort of soil it would help?.....

 

[greggy]

Here is a image of ground stay was on, so similar for post...




Will do some of the strainer later.

Has anyone seen a pilot ? something you can put on ground first that the post passes through that would stop it twisting ?

If I'm seeing correctly you should be rock drilling that.

I put stakes in on right.....got about 2ft in with stake and welded pipe......was going to do some shots....but forgot ph today,....lol

 

[callmefence]

Here is a image of ground stay was on, so similar for post...




Will do some of the strainer later.

Has anyone seen a pilot ? something you can put on ground first that the post passes through that would stop it twisting ?

If I'm seeing correctly you should be rock drilling that.

I put stakes in on right.....got about 2ft in with stake and welded pipe......was going to do some shots....but forgot ph today,....lol

I would love to see a pic of the top line of your fence if you're just using marks for grade. We mark post as well but unless the ground is as flat as a slab we still adjust for a smooth top....

 

[M.Magis]

Not sure how a pilot would work? It would still twist as it entered the ground. I think squaring it up with a pipe wrench makes the most sense.

Good point, if rock is twisting it....in normal sort of soil it would help?.....

I get twisting in plain dirt as well.

 

[greggy]

A guide should work there.....try the adjustable wrench with pipe like I did....seemed to work.....or maybe I was lucky.