BobbyLummus1
Well-known member
What do you think about this model tractor ? Anybody here put alot of hours on one with no major issues ?
John deere 5410
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dieselbeef
Well-known member
if a 5210 is the same ..mines got 3200 on it runs great
bigbull338
Well-known member
ram if your tractor is that bad.then you need to think about another brand of tractor.your overhauls must be dirt cheap.had a tractor overhauled in 92 and the motor was $7000.
We work it hard Bigbull, it's the only tractor we have with a cab. I rebuild the engine myself and the overhaul kit is less than a grand. So when I'm done having a valve job, new fan belt and I'll change the dryer on the AC, I might have $1,500.00 in the whole job. The best part is it only takes a day from start to finish. I have 3 other tractors that I'll sell, but this one is not for sale.
Kingfisher
Well-known member
What are the symptoms when you decide it needs an OH? What do you find worn out when you tear it down? Thanks in advance.ram":ghrigv60 said:
BobbyLummus1
Well-known member
the brakes felt like they were dragging when I test drove it . Drove it down the road and would slow down when I hit clutch . Put on hill hit clutch and didnt roll back . Drove it for a bit and it fixed itself , no longing dragging when I parked it ( also noticed the rear axle was real hot) , not sure if this issue will come back . I bought the tractor and priced it in hoping it wouldn't be terribly expensive
Clean the hydraulic screen on the back of the tractor and change the hydraulic filter. The brakes are wet and the wear goes into the screen and filter.
Kingfisher, blow by is how I can tell first. And then the tractor won't start when it's hot. When I pulled the engine down the first time the pistons and liners were scored up bad. The main bearings had little to no noticeable wear and the same for the wrist pins. I bought the tractor knowing the engine needed an overhaul. But I thought someone ran the engine hot, or without an air cleaner. This tractor is only 60 pto hp. And it will out work and out pull my old Kubota 8200 all day long, even with a tired engine.
Kingfisher, blow by is how I can tell first. And then the tractor won't start when it's hot. When I pulled the engine down the first time the pistons and liners were scored up bad. The main bearings had little to no noticeable wear and the same for the wrist pins. I bought the tractor knowing the engine needed an overhaul. But I thought someone ran the engine hot, or without an air cleaner. This tractor is only 60 pto hp. And it will out work and out pull my old Kubota 8200 all day long, even with a tired engine.
dieselbeef
Well-known member
BobbyLummus1":bb9c362b said:
I been thru all the brake issues on these..if they keep draggin lemme know..i got the iggy on fixin em
bigbull338
Well-known member
ram up till 2010 we only had 1 cab tractor todo everything.we retired it with over 20,000 hours on the 2nd motor.now we have 2 4x4 ROPS tractors with loaders and 1 cab 4x4 tractor todo everything.
Ridgefarmer63
Well-known member
I know a 5320 is a different model, but a dairy farmer friend I know, has over 10,000 hrs. on his. So...... I bought one too. Mine has a cab and comparing it to my 2240, it is a little light in the rear and a little tippy er feeling but I think that is to be expected. Mike
BobbyLummus1
Well-known member
Thnks Diesel Beef I'm gonna keep that in mind
Tractor Will
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Dieselbeef, interested on your knowledge on fixing the brake drag on the 5410. I pulled mine apart the other day and found that the piston is too tight, around 40/1000. This was causing the drag from what I can tell. The interferance fit on the return spring assemblies appears to have slipped towards the brake lining causing the drag. Do you know if the new return spring assemblies have addressed this problem or do you have any other ideas on how to keep this from happening again. The tractor is at 1,300 hours and cant say I want to do this as the typical thousand hour service, so hoping to fix this this time and not look back.
Thank you,
Will
on my deere the brakes started draggin.. i'd hit the clutch and it would stop but not suddenly. My rear screen was clogged pretty bad. but i took the brakes off .. i had to pull the rear wheels and lift the fuel tank up. brakes had some metal shavings in there.. i bought new little dowel type metal things that the brakes use... i think the kit was like 100 bucks. put it all back together and it was fine.
first, i would just try to change the oil , filter, and clean the screens in the rear like ram said
maybe thats what i bought.. the return springs..? been a while. I think mine had 6 or 8 on each side. I don't think they needed replaced but since I had it apart i went ahead and did it since htey were only around 100.
Mine actually did it right at around 1300 hours too!
The worst thing you can do is NOT clean the screen! My manual doesn't even mention cleaning it until I thnk 1200 hours. Clean that rear screen with EVERY oil change. I change my oil, i'll change the hydr. filter as well and clean the rear screen.
