JD 2755 electrical issue

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Bob-s

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I have an electrical question on a John Deere 2755 cab tractor. One of the blower motors seized up due to dirt daubers building nests in it. I have a replacement on order along with the resistor so I'll get back the multi fan speeds. The new resistor and fan should be in tomorrow, but I'm trying to get ahead a bit.

I replaced the relay for the blower motors. Not sure it was bad as I haven't tested it. I have some power because the left and right wipers work. I checked all the fuses, they are fine.

Problem is the other blower motor won't work, and the radio doesn't power on either. I would think that without one blower motor, the other should work with the fan switch but it doesn't. I cannot find any loose or burnt wires or sloppy connections. I have another fan switch but haven't tried it yet. I don't know if the a/c works yet. If I turn the key on and the the a/c switch it should engage the clutch on the compressor, right?

The tractor starts and runs fine, no problems there.

Any help y'all can provide with ideas, things to try, or the answer to my problem would be greatly appreciated. I am sure there is something simple that I'm missing, just can't find it.

As a side question, any ideas how to keep the wasps from building their mud nests in it? I bet I found 100+ already and there might be 100++ more that I haven't found yet.

Thanks in advance
Bob
 
first thing I would do is get out my electric meter and find out if you have voltage to each of the items that are not working. if no voltage, start working backwards to where you have voltage. a wiring schematic would be a great tool for finding problems. you could also run a jumper wire to each to see if it works as it should with direct battery voltage applied. if fuses are all good, check relays in fuse panel.
 
As I was on my other tractor today I realized I don't know if the other blower motor wasn't fried as well. Your points are valid and overlooked by me. I missed the obvious. Thanks for getting me back to basics. Will let you know what I find.

No wiring schematic, but I'll look for one on the 'net.
 
I can't speak directly to the 2755, but many JD's have a 3rd blower motor above the cabin filter. When this motor fails you might not get power to the two motors under the seat.

Edit: This might be unique to the 7000 series, sorry to be of no assistance
 
My cousin talked me into one of these this past spring, the nicest electrical diagnostic tool I've ever used. Where has this thing been all of my life?


Wiring and connectors are showing their age on tractors of your vintage. My 1988 Ford 7710 kept blowing the a/c compressor clutch fuse last fall and I was all set to replace the compressor unit as it's original. Turns out the pins in the harness connector between the cab and engine were losing connection and building heat which in turn, popped the fuse. The terminals were in pretty rough shape, so I ran a new wire from the switch alongside the harness and bypassed the connector and old wiring.
 
My cousin talked me into one of these this past spring, the nicest electrical diagnostic tool I've ever used. Where has this thing been all of my life?


Wiring and connectors are showing their age on tractors of your vintage. My 1988 Ford 7710 kept blowing the a/c compressor clutch fuse last fall and I was all set to replace the compressor unit as it's original. Turns out the pins in the harness connector between the cab and engine were losing connection and building heat which in turn, popped the fuse. The terminals were in pretty rough shape, so I ran a new wire from the switch alongside the harness and bypassed the connector and old wiring.
That would be nice........

Relay and Component Tester

Audible Monitoring of Electrical Signals
-
 
That would be nice........

Relay and Component Tester

Audible Monitoring of Electrical Signals
-
Buy one, you'll love it. Hooks to your battery so you can send power to a circuit at the touch of a button. Doesn't take the place of a good multimeter, but will do a vast majority of the troubleshooting needs of us shadetree types.
 
I find just a plain test lamp works best for me. The current that the lamp draws helps make the connection when touching on old dirty corroded connections. I get unreliable results with a multimeter as there is negligible current going through the probes, you have to make sure the terminals are shiny clean to make it work whereas with the lamp you just give it a bit of a scratch and it lights up.

Ken
 
You did fine checking the obvious stuff. Now you're at the point where you (even I) will need to use a multi-meter...ohms for resistance checks on resistors, relay contacts, blower motors-turning shafts by hand (isolated equipment-devices without voltage applied) and then voltage checks on wiring with battery and switches activated for flow to across the blower motor. Meters are inexpensive $20. and not difficult to use.
 
I have installed the blower motors and the resistor and relay; still nothing. There seems to be another layer of "roof" that is riveted on that I might can remove and expose additional wiring. I am going to explore what it will take to remove that layer. If I can I think I can find the broken/melted wire(s) and repair them.

Without a wiring diagram (which I probably can't read anyway) I am at a point where I think I have exceeded my expertise. I called my repair shop to see how far out their waiting list is; a few weeks was the response. Rather than screw something else up, I am inclined to put it all back together and wait for them to call so I don't fubar something else. It might be a bit expensive but worth it in the end, or that is what I'm telling myself.

I will also spend some time trying to find a way to keep the dirt daubers from building nests throughout the tractor. I don't think the nests caused the problem necessarily but it sure made taking it apart a really dirty experience. Better sealing and strategic insecticide placement might help the next unlucky person who has to break it open. Any ideas with this are welcome.

Thanks for the help, will let you know how it turned out.
Bob
 
There seems to be another layer of "roof" that is riveted on that I might can remove and expose additional wiring
55 series may be slightly different than my 4450 but did you hinge the roof up to get at the motors? If you tilt the roof up ( I believe it's two 15/16 head bolts and Philips from underneath) you should have full access to the blower assembly as well as all the cab light wiring. I would pull the switch/ knob panel down and test for 12v at the blower speed control unless you've checked that already. Wish I had a picture of in there I just got done in mine redoing all the A/C.
 
I have an electrical question on a John Deere 2755 cab tractor. One of the blower motors seized up due to dirt daubers building nests in it. I have a replacement on order along with the resistor so I'll get back the multi fan speeds. The new resistor and fan should be in tomorrow, but I'm trying to get ahead a bit.

I replaced the relay for the blower motors. Not sure it was bad as I haven't tested it. I have some power because the left and right wipers work. I checked all the fuses, they are fine.

Problem is the other blower motor won't work, and the radio doesn't power on either. I would think that without one blower motor, the other should work with the fan switch but it doesn't. I cannot find any loose or burnt wires or sloppy connections. I have another fan switch but haven't tried it yet. I don't know if the a/c works yet. If I turn the key on and the the a/c switch it should engage the clutch on the compressor, right?

The tractor starts and runs fine, no problems there.

Any help y'all can provide with ideas, things to try, or the answer to my problem would be greatly appreciated. I am sure there is something simple that I'm missing, just can't find it.

As a side question, any ideas how to keep the wasps from building their mud nests in it? I bet I found 100+ already and there might be 100++ more that I haven't found yet.

Thanks in advance
Bob
Turning the key on won't necessarily engage the compressor clutch. There is a safety relay that is activated by refrigerant pressure. No or low "freon" charge will disable the compressor. It's a safety feature that prevents (hopefully) compressor damage when freon is low or no freon.
 
Turning the key on won't necessarily engage the compressor clutch. There is a safety relay that is activated by refrigerant pressure. No or low "freon" charge will disable the compressor. It's a safety feature that prevents (hopefully) compressor damage when freon is low or no freon.

Power goes to the clutch through the ignition switch, thermostatic temp switch, the blower switch, and then through the pressure switches, likely both high and low side. If all of those are closed, it will switch on with the ignition.

When the compressor is not turning, refrigerant pressure will be equalized in the system and both switches will be closed, that has nothing to do with the key being on or off.

If that is similar to the older Soundgard tractors, there is a big relay behind the left side console panel that switches on everything in the cab. A little work with a test light will tell you where the problem lies.
 

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