Ideal haying tractor HP ?

[Stocker Steve]

I bought a nine foot discbine and hooked it up to a 5075E. I have been running it in B2 at 5 mph, but it pulls down in really heavy hay, or while going up hill... I could just grow thinner hay crops, but I am thinking about more HP instead. Any suggestions?

 

[bigbull338]

you need something like the 6105d 105 engine and 87hp at the pto.your tractor is about 62hp at the pto.

 

[Aaron]

The conditioner rollers suck up a lot of juice. Doesn't matter if it is a haybine or a discbine.

 

[Black and Good]

This post makes me feel better. LOL I've always owned JD tractors but, this winter I was looking at 75hp tractors and picked the New Holland T4.75 over the JD 5075E. I used the 4.75 to mow all are hay this year with a NH 1409 9' discbine in thick brome hay mowed it in B3 & B4 depending on thickness. B&G

 

[John SD]

The conditioner rollers suck up a lot of juice. Doesn't matter if it is a haybine or a discbine.

+1. I would add that a disc machine takes more HP than the same size conventional sickle cutter.

My 105HP Ford 8600 is just about right on my 16' sickle moco/conditioner. Moco makes the tractor really work at times. Would not want any less tractor on it.

Kubota M126GX rated at 105HP and seems just about ideal for the round baler. Wouldn't want any less tractor there either, for power or ground clearance. Put 2 of the 16' swaths together to bale and I'm glad the Kubota is on 38" rubber, 24" in front.

The Vermeer R2800 rake is a pretty heavy piece of equipment. Ford 9600 130HP runs it well at a high idle. A somewhat smaller tractor could do the job on mostly level fields. 9600 in 5L @ 1600 RPM is about the right combination of basket speed and ground speed.

 

[Stocker Steve]

The conditioner rollers suck up a lot of juice. Doesn't matter if it is a haybine or a discbine.

Got some lodged RC "cover crop" that is higher than the tractor axle...

 

[Stocker Steve]

Sounds like I need a > 100 hp tractor and really heavy seed bed land roller to go like helll !

 

[OklaBrangusBreeder]

I run a 10 ft JD 830 center pivot MoCo with my 5093E. It does great. I run Medium range, using 3 or 4th gear. I would have guessed a 5075E to be a bit light for what you are describing. My "perfect" size HP in the hayfield assuming a 4 ft round baler would be 90HP.

 

[jltrent]

I run a 10 ft JD 830 center pivot MoCo with my 5093E. It does great. I run Medium range, using 3 or 4th gear. I would have guessed a 5075E to be a bit light for what you are describing. My "perfect" size HP in the hayfield assuming a 4 ft round baler would be 90HP.

+1

 

[Angus Cowman]

I mowed some real thick crabgrass Saturday couldn't even tell the 13ft NH discbine was behind me mowing at 7mph on some rough ground but then I did have it hooked up to the JD 8225R

 

[Cabo]

I mowed some real thick crabgrass Saturday couldn't even tell the 13ft NH discbine was behind me mowing at 7mph on some rough ground but then I did have it hooked up to the JD 8225R

AC, are you sure you had enough tractor, lol?

 

[Nesikep]

I have a 7 1/2ft NH sicklebar moco, and the Massey 165 doesn't feel it unless you're in 6' high oats or something, my limiting factor is rough ground, or in cases of smooth ground sicklebar speed... I've been tempted to gear up the PTO drive on the moco so I can run less engine RPM, a higher gear, and still keep the moco running at 540. I'm looking to upgrade to a 9' at some point, still debating on disc or sicklebar... I do get a lot of lodged crops that a disc would certainly pick up better, but I don't know how much better.. maintenance on a sicklebar is MUCH cheaper, which is always something to keep in mind.
we have a NH 282 square baler with it's own engine, so I don't need much power for baling

 

[Stocker Steve]

I'm looking to upgrade to a 9' at some point, still debating on disc or sicklebar... I do get a lot of lodged crops that a disc would certainly pick up better, but I don't know how much better.. maintenance on a sickle bar is MUCH cheaper, which is always something to keep in mind.

I have learned alll about the disc maintenance. Not many rocks at the previous owners, and no manual came with it, so I learned how to fine tune the set it up in the school of "hard knocks."

 

[dun]

I'm looking to upgrade to a 9' at some point, still debating on disc or sicklebar... I do get a lot of lodged crops that a disc would certainly pick up better, but I don't know how much better.. maintenance on a sickle bar is MUCH cheaper, which is always something to keep in mind.

I have learned alll about the disc maintenance. Not many rocks at the previous owners, and no manual came with it, so I learned how to fine tune the set it up in the school of "hard knocks."

We have rocks, BIOY, do we have rocks. A little grease in the pots and 90 weight in the gear boxes and the dic works grat. Sharpen the blades about every 8-10 hours. Have a couple of spares if something new pops up that I haven;t mowed over before. I also adjust it so it mows more level and leaves the stubble a bit longer. Blades last longer. Burned up the belts a while back, took about 20 minutes to replace all of them. Haven;t had any issues with the drive/cutter parts. When I got itat about 10 years of age I adjusted all of the pots to get them alighned proeprly. Other then corn head grease every year that's been all the maintenance. Neighbor had a sicklebar, took him longer to replace one tooth then It does for me to replace all of mine. Now he has a disc, just a coincidence, it's a tonutti, frame is warped, he bought it new.

 

[Stocker Steve]

Seems like disc bnines are designed to run on the ground, but most folks here leave 3.5 to 5 " of stubble.
When I got the N.I. operators manual, they showed a rock country option for built up shoes that run 2" higher.

 

[Nesikep]

On ours, 1 bolt and you slide the sicklebar out, a hammer and rivet and you put the new blade on.. it has a carrying location so you can carry another sicklebar with you.. I never do since it's actually pretty rare for me to break a rivet off