Husqvarna chainsaw

[Atimm693]

I'm about ready to hock this Autotune Jonsered and find a nice 350 or 346XP.

Started having issues with it last year. Hard starting, wanted full choke for several seconds, smoking like crazy. I thought air leak, I tore it down, passed pressure and vac tests with flying colors.

Dealer suggested trying the newest revision carb, cost was $150 dollars or so. They got it all programmed, I put it in. It's better but still not fixed. Acts like it's too rich at idle, starts to load up if you let it idle too long.

I got 5 good seasons out of that saw, which isn't too bad I guess.

 

[sstterry]

jltrent, pro auction is in a couple weeks isn't it. We need to go see what they have and let ssttery buy our lunch.

I can't afford to go to the Auction. I just paid to have a clutch replaced on a Tractor. But, I might be able to spring for lunch though.

Btw, Hurst Auction Company will be holding an equipment Auction in a few weeks. Less advertising and so there might be some deals. I was just told by a friend that they are putting it together.

 

[jltrent]

I'm about ready to hock this Autotune Jonsered and find a nice 350 or 346XP.

Started having issues with it last year. Hard starting, wanted full choke for several seconds, smoking like crazy. I thought air leak, I tore it down, passed pressure and vac tests with flying colors.

Dealer suggested trying the newest revision carb, cost was $150 dollars or so. They got it all programmed, I put it in. It's better but still not fixed. Acts like it's too rich at idle, starts to load up if you let it idle too long.

I got 5 good seasons out of that saw, which isn't too bad I guess.

Sounds like you have a 550xp as you did not say Jonsered version (same saw) as with those people either say they are great or problematic. (a lot have hot start issues or develop it, IMO coil related as you have eliminate the carb hopefully) If the crankcase passed vac and pressure test that eliminates a lot. It does not sound like your problem, but a pressure/vac test on the tank which only takes about 5 minutes I have found saws in like new condition people had given up on was the problem. Also a pretty rare problem I have had a couple times was the North/South magnets on the flywheel, one will get weaker. A MS660 I tried everything even switch parts on another to try and the North magnet on the flywheel had gotten weaker or came from the factory like that was the problem.

Hard starting and then smoking like crazy it sounds like it is loading up on fuel and a weaker spark(also could only be doing this after hot as you did not say). Autotunes run too lean from the factory and it is amazing they will last. From my experience chain speed is great on Autotunes, but low end torque is not very good. I compared an older Stihl 036 to a new Stihl MS362 cutting with the same bar/chain. The 036 would win every time, but it did burn a little more gas and probably pollute more.

 

[skyhightree1]

I broke down and finally bought a real chainsaw; a Husky 460 Rancher, with a 24" bar.


Anyone have any opinions or experiences?

cypress you still havent bought a real chainsaw yet

 

[jltrent]

Here is a fun little project to build a saw that will preform like a $600 pro saw for around $200 or less as I have tinkered around and done at least 5. The Husqvarna 350 has the sane crankshaft as a 346xp and when you add a OEM 346 xp top end, update intake clamp, muffler brace and lock the studs it is bullet proof. I have this one set at 14K, but will safely run faster.

OEM cylinder/piston on a junked $75 saw with a $95 on sale top end.

New metal intake clamp replaces the plastic one

New muffler brace and lock the studs so they can't come loose.

Tached at 14k and will do more safely.

 

[Atimm693]

Sounds like you have a 550xp as you did not say Jonsered version (same saw) as with those people either say they are great or problematic. (a lot have hot start issues or develop it, IMO coil related as you have eliminate the carb hopefully) If the crankcase passed vac and pressure test that eliminates a lot. It does not sound like your problem, but a pressure/vac test on the tank which only takes about 5 minutes I have found saws in like new condition people had given up on was the problem. Also a pretty rare problem I have had a couple times was the North/South magnets on the flywheel, one will get weaker. A MS660 I tried everything even switch parts on another to try and the North magnet on the flywheel had gotten weaker or came from the factory like that was the problem.

Hard starting and then smoking like crazy it sounds like it is loading up on fuel and a weaker spark(also could only be doing this after hot as you did not say). Autotunes run too lean from the factory and it is amazing they will last. From my experience chain speed is great on Autotunes, but low end torque is not very good. I compared an older Stihl 036 to a new Stihl MS362 cutting with the same bar/chain. The 036 would win every time, but it did burn a little more gas and probably pollute more.

mp, muffler brace and lock the studs it is bullet proof. I have this one set at 14K, but will safely run faster.

It's a CS2252, same as a Husky 545, mostly the same as a 550XP but the programming is different.

I never had any of the hot start trouble that a lot of people did. For the first 5 years it was no different than a regular saw.

It still doesn't start quite right, needs to run on full choke for a few seconds, but will run alright once it's warmed up and you don't let it idle too long.

There is supposed to be a hidden idle air screw, I may open it up again and try to adjust that. A touch leaner on the low side sounds like it would clear it up.

 

[SmokinM]

What is the best remedy for the auto oilers on those saws Trent. That is by far and away where I have the most trouble on mine. Try to be really careful and keep them clean but seems like they don't work right for long. How hard are they to replace? Thanks

 

[jltrent]

From my experience not had much trouble with the oiler on those. Keep the bar rails clean, bar oil hole clean. I made you some pictures of a pump and how it goes in (350 case) same way 346. The 346xp, 350, 351 an 353 have the same oiler. The 340 and 345 oiler is different. The pump is adjustable and yours may need adjusted to max as you can do it with a flat screw driver at the bottom or the oil pump pinion gear maybe worn. To put the pump on remove the clutch, drum, pinion gear, cover and there it is. It is a fairly easy job.

A lot of people around here use used/burnt motor oil for bar oil, but it shortens the pumps life, stains the plastic, gums everything up, people refuse to work on, reduces the value of the saw and it is a carcinogenic an can cause cancer when you get it slung all over you.

Here is the oil pump and oil pump pinion gear as you can see the adjustment on the pump . Check and see if the thread are good on the pinion gear and clean good might fix it.

Here is how it goes in the case.

 

[cypressfarms]

Update on my new Husky Rancher 460...

Filled it up with bar oil and gas, put 24" bar and chain on. Heard rumors about Husky's being hard to start.
2nd pull she popped. Pushed choke in and on third pull she was running. Idled perfect after touching the throttle.
Let it idle awhile to break in, then goosed her a bit. First impression.... This thing is a beast! It was actually scary strong. Every time I hit the throttle, it would pull down slightly. Now granted, I've only had pretend chainsaws (poulan) before.
Just bought an 18" bar and chain for it from the local repair shop. I need to get used to this power before I go all out with 24" of beast, lol!
The local Husky guy here did tell me with the 18" bar, it would cut extremely strong. Crap, don't know if I can handle this strong, lol!

 

[cypressfarms]

Jltrent,

this local Husky guy said that using used motor oil was never a good idea, like you said. He told me that on the Huskies, the bar oil is designed to actually heat up (thin some) and flow through the oiler better. I'm not experienced enough to know, but that seems very practical. I'm still studying the manual on this thing to make sure I don't mess it up. Seems like a quality machine

 

[Dave]

If you think that thing is "scary strong", you best not get ahold of a real saw.

 

[jltrent]

Jltrent,

this local Husky guy said that using used motor oil was never a good idea, like you said. He told me that on the Huskies, the bar oil is designed to actually heat up (thin some) and flow through the oiler better. I'm not experienced enough to know, but that seems very practical. I'm still studying the manual on this thing to make sure I don't mess it up. Seems like a quality machine

A lot of tight people around here want buy a $6 gallon of bar oil when in the long run it saves money. Your saw is 60cc and for a mid grade saw pretty powerful. For firewood and around the farm use it will do any job. Learn how to sharpen a chain as that is the most important part of keeping a saw cutting good and less wear on it. Also not a bad ideal to keep and extra chain handy.

 

[cypressfarms]

You're right Dave. After years of 30 something cc Poulans, the 60cc Husky definitely caught my attention. I'll get used to it; might be better not to lose a leg until I do

 

[wbvs58]

You're right Dave. After years of 30 something cc Poulans, the 60cc Husky definitely caught my attention. I'll get used to it; might be better not to lose a leg until I do

Have you got chaps?

Ken

 

[Dave]

You're right Dave. After years of 30 something cc Poulans, the 60cc Husky definitely caught my attention. I'll get used to it; might be better not to lose a leg until I do

I cut my teeth running 090 and 075 Stihl saws with 42 or 60 inch bars. Now I do have a 290 Stihl with a 20 inch bar. To me it seems like a toy for trimming the shrubs in the flower bed. That said it has been 30 years since I fell a tree that required that big of a saw.

 

[SmokinM]

Thanks for the help Trent. All the ports are clean. The adjuster screw is wide open on one and spins free on the other so I assume it has come apart inside. I wish they had thumb oilers like Dads old 072vl Echo. Of course they weigh half as much and cut twice as fast so there is a trade off.

 

[jltrent]

Thanks for the help Trent. All the ports are clean. The adjuster screw is wide open on one and spins free on the other so I assume it has come apart inside. I wish they had thumb oilers like Dads old 072vl Echo. Of course they weigh half as much and cut twice as fast so there is a trade off.

The first new saw I ever bought was a Craftsman 3.7 in 1985 as it has the thumb oiler and auto oiler combined. I still have it and still like the manual thumb oiler. Except for the extra weight and slower chain speed it will cut with any 61cc saw today. It is the same saw as a Poulan 3700 back when Poulan made good saws.

 

[SmokinM]

Poulan 3400 "Countervibe" that was the other saw I grew up splitting wood behind. Saw that old Echo sitting in the shed the other day. Hadnt been fired up in at least 4-5 years. Took maybe a dozen pulls but she popped off and ran like new. Has the bow blade on it, nice for log wood on the ground.

 

[jltrent]

Those old good Poulans 3400, 3700, 3800, 4000 I have owned I bet 30-40 as use to pick them up about every time I went to the flea market and repair, etc. You don't see them much anymore as their price has went up and parts are crazy high. I have a few left as I wish I had them all.


Here is a couple 4000s and a 3400 I wish I still had. That old 4000 with a 24" bar would hold its on with a Stihl 044.

 

[cypressfarms]

I finally got to test the Husky Rancher 460 this weekend cutting some red oak trees for firewood. I have to say, that thing is a beast. Cut everything I asked of it and more. I'm definitely buying an 18" bar to complement the 24". After 4 hours cutting, I was wore out! Gotta think it'll be lighter and easier to handle with the 18"... At least fire firewood duty