Haybine Roller bearing change

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skyhightree1

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I am putting some pics up this may help someone who fools with haybines... bearings 45 bucks each the flanges if needing to replace 20 bucks each 2 per bearing...I will tell you if you don't have a hot wrench before doing this get one it will save you tons of time but you got to be careful... I used both a hot wrench and pullers Just a few pics this may help someone I have done so many and rebuilt haybines if you have questions let me know. I would also advise you to change the bearing collars as well those allen wrench set screws are a PITA if they been on there any amount of time.

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Aaron

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I'd like to know where you are getting US-made bearings for those for $45 a piece. More like $100 here.

I just take it to my farm mechanic and he makes quick work of all of it with a torch. I don't have the patience for bearings.
 

John SD

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Aaron":27ku5m0l said:
I'd like to know where you are getting US-made bearings for those for $45 a piece. More like $100 here.

I just take it to my farm mechanic and he makes quick work of all of it with a torch. I don't have the patience for bearings.

I used to do that kind of stuff, but just don't have what it takes anymore. I know the day is coming when the MacDon is going to need some bearings. I'll probably just hitch on the pickup and take it somewhere.

For bearings and belts, if you have an industrial wholesaler within reasonable distance they are usually the go-to place for parts at the best price you will find. And they likely stock more bearings than a dealership does because they sell stuff for all kinds of applications :idea:
 
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skyhightree1

skyhightree1

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Aaron":1t397c3z said:
I'd like to know where you are getting US-made bearings for those for $45 a piece. More like $100 here.

I just take it to my farm mechanic and he makes quick work of all of it with a torch. I don't have the patience for bearings.

Not sure where its made but came from the dealer. Yea I torch them too and I am the farm equip mechanic :lol2:
John I went to Agri Supply they didn't have it so I went to the dealer

M-5":1t397c3z said:
A good cold chisel will bust the collar and race and you can slide them off by hand.

Those races are hard as crap and you will be beating a long while even with the best chisel. I was doing that when I first started out and spoke to a tech at the dealer he told me nothing beats the hot wrench and I agree. The collars im not sure about ease to break those I never have chiseled one.
 

M-5

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That's why a cold chisel works . It takesa big one that will go all the way across it , You knock the heII out of it Once maybe twice and it will crack one side of it , That crack will allow enough relief that it will slide off with ease. There is no telling how many bearings I've changed just like that on pickers, combines, conditioners.
 
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skyhightree1

skyhightree1

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M-5":3txk8evq said:
That's why a cold chisel works . It takesa big one that will go all the way across it , You knock the heII out of it Once maybe twice and it will crack one side of it , That crack will allow enough relief that it will slide off with ease. There is no telling how many bearings I've changed just like that on pickers, combines, conditioners.

The problem I always have is sometimes it wont move out far enough that you can get a chisel on it.
 

Nesikep

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I've used the torch on those kinds of applications many times.. same goes for round baler bearings... just have some water ready if you catch something on fire!

On an old machine that's nearing the end of it's life, I'd just go with cheap bearings.. Our machine is 35 years old and still on the originals, but I don't know if I'd spend the money to put OEM ones back into it now
 

Mat Man

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A drimel with a cut off wheel /be done before you get the torch out.
Not near as hot in this humid weather.
 

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