Hay storage. Net vs twine.

[TdJ]

We have a JD 530 baler. It makes pretty decent bales. We can adjust the tension to make tighter bales. We have the bale monitor which helps. Hard to find the bale monitors though. We were going to buy another used 530 but it didn't have a monitor. Some of our neighbors think we're crazy making those big 5x6 bales. But for storing outside, the bigger the better.

Adjusting tension is my next mystery to solve. I know it's possible, but haven't had the time to figure it out. Getting the user manual from JD website gave me some of what I needed but the rest is trial by error, I think. My bales are getting better (not as poofy) but still look like barrels. At this point I'm trying to save grass though, not going for best looking bale .

 

[WFfarm]

Adjusting tension is my next mystery to solve. I know it's possible, but haven't had the time to figure it out. Getting the user manual from JD website gave me some of what I needed but the rest is trial by error, I think. My bales are getting better (not as poofy) but still look like barrels. At this point I'm trying to save grass though, not going for best looking bale .

Good belts help. Make sure your pressure gauge in the front is good and working. Adjust the knob in the front a little at a time until the pressure gauge reads good and the bales look good. You'll have to adjust, bale a little, adjust, etc. Overdry grass hay will still make fluffy bales. It's a bit of a competition between my brother and I who makes the least amount of "snow cones" and "pregnant" bales

 

[callmefence]

Adjusting tension is my next mystery to solve. I know it's possible, but haven't had the time to figure it out. Getting the user manual from JD website gave me some of what I needed but the rest is trial by error, I think. My bales are getting better (not as poofy) but still look like barrels. At this point I'm trying to save grass though, not going for best looking bale .

Everyone should have to run a baler without a monitor for a couple of seasons. Even with a monitor lots of basic skills still apply with a monitor.
Barrels usually mean you need a wider windrow and or weave a little more. Besides your tension adjustment slower ground speed and higher pto will tighten things up. Watch your belts and you'll learn to steer into the belt lean on those cone shaped bales

 

[TdJ]

Good belts help. Make sure your pressure gauge in the front is good and working. Adjust the knob in the front a little at a time until the pressure gauge reads good and the bales look good. You'll have to adjust, bale a little, adjust, etc. Overdry grass hay will still make fluffy bales. It's a bit of a competition between my brother and I who makes the least amount of "snow cones" and "pregnant" bales

View attachment 11994

You have a paper manual. I am jealous! I ordered two manuals for my 1983 Ford 6700 and one is a scan of a manual with services completed and greasy fingerprints. That reprint cost me $20, but better than not having one.

Thanks for the page, I have saved an will give it a whirl on Friday bale day. You might hear from me again for a little more advice…

 

[TdJ]

Everyone should have to run a baler without a monitor for a couple of seasons. Even with a monitor lots of basic skills still apply with a monitor.
Barrels usually mean you need a wider windrow and or weave a little more. Besides your tension adjustment slower ground speed and higher pto will tighten things up. Watch your belts and you'll learn to steer into the belt lean on those cone shaped bales

I'm with you, good to know how it works and read the machine. I ended up narrowing the windrows to increase volume and move side to side every 10 seconds. That did improve the barrels a ton but I think you're right though and I'll widen the windrows this next time as a test. I'm going 2nd low max, sometimes 1st. But watching belts is something I didn't even think about, I didn't pick up there was a visible difference! But i will learn.

 

[simme]

Thanks for the page, I have saved and will give it a whirl on Friday bale day.

I have got to ask. Are you baling hay this Friday? In January? What kind of hay?

 

[WFfarm]

You have a paper manual. I am jealous! I ordered two manuals for my 1983 Ford 6700 and one is a scan of a manual with services completed and greasy fingerprints. That reprint cost me $20, but better than not having one.

Thanks for the page, I have saved an will give it a whirl on Friday bale day. You might hear from me again for a little more advice…

I have a Parts Manual PC1915 and an Operator's Manual OM-E75045. Not trying to brag, but you may be able to use the numbers to find something available on the internet. Any time for advice, not that I'm an expert but have been running and repairing this baler for 20 years. I can get you some page shots any time.

 

[TdJ]

I have got to ask. Are you baling hay this Friday? In January? What kind of hay?

Yeah, timing is not ideal here in central Texas. I bought the property recently and have fields that haven't been baled in two years. So really doing two things. First I want to stress the pastures and clean the mesquite/weeds and second I want to save the grass I can in case next year is a dry one. Right now Thursday and Friday will be around 70 so grass will be dry enough.

 

[TdJ]

I have a Parts Manual PC1915 and an Operator's Manual OM-E75045. Not trying to brag, but you may be able to use the numbers to find something available on the internet. Any time for advice, not that I'm an expert but have been running and repairing this baler for 20 years. I can get you some page shots any time.

Btw, my bale density gauge is full of water and doesn't move.. so I might need to do some repair because without that gauge I'm worried I'll break something!

 

[callmefence]

Yeah, timing is not ideal here in central Texas. I bought the property recently and have fields that haven't been baled in two years. So really doing two things. First I want to stress the pastures and clean the mesquite/weeds and second I want to save the grass I can in case next year is a dry one. Right now Thursday and Friday will be around 70 so grass will be dry enough.

Your in Hamilton. You've had some freeze.
I would think the grass was dry before it was cut???

 

[TdJ]

Your in Hamilton. You've had some freeze.
I would think the grass was dry before it was cut???

Yep, it should be except this weekend it rained! I can't get to it this week unfortunately, so Friday it is.

 

[Mat Man]

Some gages are liquid filled .
Most gages pressure goes up when you raise tailgate all the way up

 

[simme]

Some gages are liquid filled .
Most gages pressure goes up when you raise tailgate all the way up

I agree that the gauge will be liquid filled and will not register pressure until the bales begins to fill the baling chamber. Gauge fill is generally glycerin or silicone. Water would not have made it thru the big freeze.

 

[TdJ]

@Mat Man @simme
I did not know that. Checked last night and it certainly didn't look like hydraulic fluid nor water. Thick and gloopy. If I recall from my last baling session that gauge didn't seem to move but I'll be honest, I was super focused on trying to mitigate the barrels. I have a lot of new knowledge to apply!

 

[Silver]

Gauge on my 530 didn't wok for years. In fact it seems to me I disconnected it because it took to leaking. I ran with the pressure screwed as high as it would go. Now it may be that it was so wore out it couldn't make enough pressure to hurt itself, I don't know. But even though my yearlings ate the wiring harness off of it so I couldn't use the monitor it made great bales right to the end. But as Fence noted, your swath has a lot to do with bale shape. If your swath is 2/3 the width of your pickup you will always be feeding the centre regardless of which side of the baler you are trying to fill.

 

[WFfarm]

Btw, my bale density gauge is full of water and doesn't move.. so I might need to do some repair because without that gauge I'm worried I'll break something!

I replaced our last year. It wasn't working and I was afraid we would over adjust the tension. It was about $170.

 

[1982vett]

I'm with you, good to know how it works and read the machine. I ended up narrowing the windrows to increase volume and move side to side every 10 seconds. That did improve the barrels a ton but I think you're right though and I'll widen the windrows this next time as a test. I'm going 2nd low max, sometimes 1st. But watching belts is something I didn't even think about, I didn't pick up there was a visible difference! But i will learn.

Windrow formation is absolutely the key. If you don't have enough hay to make a full width windrow you have to make half a windrow and weave. About all their is to it.

 

[simme]

@Mat Man @simme
I did not know that. Checked last night and it certainly didn't look like hydraulic fluid nor water. Thick and gloopy. If I recall from my last baling session that gauge didn't seem to move but I'll be honest, I was super focused on trying to mitigate the barrels. I have a lot of new knowledge to apply!

Thick and gloopy is glycerin or silicone. Gauges have a mechanical mechanism in them that will wear quickly with high frequency pressure pulsations. A gauge filled with a thick liquid dampens the movements to make the gauge last longer. If you need to replace the gauge, it is available from many sources online, even walmart online. High density bales are generally what you want for holding shape and shedding rain - if you are going to haul, store and feed them. Unless the moisture is high. Softer bales will breathe more for higher moisture hay. Balers with monitors can be set to build soft cores and harder shells to try to optimize both. Highest density and heaviest bales are a little harder on the belts and components. But, I don't think it will explode if the gauge is not working. A baler can be fun to operate except when it is giving trouble. Which happens some with older balers.
People selling hay here tend to make softer bales and tie before they get to full diameter. Since they sale by the bale instead of by the ton. I would rather pay more for a dense full size bale, but they can't overcome their mindset of soft small bales. That makes them a pain to haul and stack.

 

[TdJ]

Thick and gloopy is glycerin or silicone. Gauges have a mechanical mechanism in them that will wear quickly with high frequency pressure pulsations. A gauge filled with a thick liquid dampens the movements to make the gauge last longer. If you need to replace the gauge, it is available from many sources online, even walmart online. High density bales are generally what you want for holding shape and shedding rain - if you are going to haul, store and feed them. Unless the moisture is high. Softer bales will breathe more for higher moisture hay. Balers with monitors can be set to build soft cores and harder shells to try to optimize both. Highest density and heaviest bales are a little harder on the belts and components. But, I don't think it will explode if the gauge is not working. A baler can be fun to operate except when it is giving trouble. Which happens some with older balers.
People selling hay here tend to make softer bales and tie before they get to full diameter. Since they sale by the bale instead of by the ton. I would rather pay more for a dense full size bale, but they can't overcome their mindset of soft small bales. That makes them a pain to haul and stack.

Weird thing is that my gauge is 2/3 full, guessing it's failed but I'll find out soon. I've set my rake wider and I'll measure and tune on Friday to get the windrows the right dimension. Going to need to rake twice I think, get all the grass off the ground and then profile. The bales I get well balanced are a little squishy, get fat on the bottom so I think there's room to increase density. Also, I may start doing 4ft bales instead of 5 to counter the potential impact on belts etc.
Thanks for the advice, I've learnt a ton super in just a few posts. @callmefence, thanks for kicking this one off sir.

 

[callmefence]

Weird thing is that my gauge is 2/3 full, guessing it's failed but I'll find out soon. I've set my rake wider and I'll measure and tune on Friday to get the windrows the right dimension. Going to need to rake twice I think, get all the grass off the ground and then profile. The bales I get well balanced are a little squishy, get fat on the bottom so I think there's room to increase density. Also, I may start doing 4ft bales instead of 5 to counter the potential impact on belts etc.
Thanks for the advice, I've learnt a ton super in just a few posts. @callmefence, thanks for kicking this one off sir.

You get some rain today?