Grease gun recommendation

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i think some of your problems are operator error (sorry).. I don't have problems loading any of the grease guns I have..

Pull plunger and lock, unscrew, release plunger and old tube comes out, discard, pull plunger back and lock, insert new tube, screw barrel back on except for about 1 turn, release plunger, pump a couple times until it's primed, tighten barrel. Some of mine have the air release on them, I found most leak grease.

Shop in town has had a LOT of problems with the Lincoln battery grease guns, and you gotta send them back to get repaired.. Some of them didn't last a week.
I don't put that many hours on that much equipment, I'm lucky enough to find a grease gun that has grease in it when I need it, don't need the extra problem of having a battery that's got some juice left in it too, and don't need another darned charger clogging up my wall outlets.
 
If you can't run a grease gun, prob'ly be best if you stayed @ least 100' away from my equipment. It's even more complicated, no sense anybody getting hurt.......
 
Nesikep":k12plcu3 said:
i think some of your problems are operator error (sorry).. I don't have problems loading any of the grease guns I have..

Pull plunger and lock, unscrew, release plunger and old tube comes out, discard, pull plunger back and lock, insert new tube, screw barrel back on except for about 1 turn, release plunger, pump a couple times until it's primed, tighten barrel. Some of mine have the air release on them, I found most leak grease.

Shop in town has had a LOT of problems with the Lincoln battery grease guns, and you gotta send them back to get repaired.. Some of them didn't last a week.
I don't put that many hours on that much equipment, I'm lucky enough to find a grease gun that has grease in it when I need it, don't need the extra problem of having a battery that's got some juice left in it too, and don't need another darned charger clogging up my wall outlets.

Looks like I go about it wrong. I unscrew the business end of the gun about half the threads. I pull the plunger, and lock it. Finish unscrewing the business end. Switch empty for full tube. Take the pull tab off, and screw business end back on tight. Release the thing you pull back.
 
LongLopeSlowHorse":3r47fx75 said:
If you can't run a grease gun, prob'ly be best if you stayed @ least 100' away from my equipment. It's even more complicated, no sense anybody getting hurt.......

Note to self:
Don't operate long lope's equipment.
 
Bigfoot":2od6eyv5 said:
Nesikep":2od6eyv5 said:
i think some of your problems are operator error (sorry).. I don't have problems loading any of the grease guns I have..

Pull plunger and lock, unscrew, release plunger and old tube comes out, discard, pull plunger back and lock, insert new tube, screw barrel back on except for about 1 turn, release plunger, pump a couple times until it's primed, tighten barrel. Some of mine have the air release on them, I found most leak grease.

Shop in town has had a LOT of problems with the Lincoln battery grease guns, and you gotta send them back to get repaired.. Some of them didn't last a week.
I don't put that many hours on that much equipment, I'm lucky enough to find a grease gun that has grease in it when I need it, don't need the extra problem of having a battery that's got some juice left in it too, and don't need another darned charger clogging up my wall outlets.

Looks like I go about it wrong. I unscrew the business end of the gun about half the threads. I pull the plunger, and lock it. Finish unscrewing the business end. Switch empty for full tube. Take the pull tab off, and screw business end back on tight. Release the thing you pull back.

I unscrew the barrel completely before I pull the plunger back. Not doing so is a good way to rip the guts out of the plunger. Then load the grease and screw the barrel on a couple of turns and pump the handle till the gun primes. Then tighten the barrel up.
This is a neat site about grease guns. http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Rea ... un-anatomy
 
Unscrew the cartridge barrel completely. Pull plunger back, don't even need to lock it back, let it slide forward a couple inches and the empty tube will release, move forward and you can pull it out and toss it in the trash.

Then I lock the plunger back. Get a new tube, remove the plastic cover. For me, I take a putty knife and spoon some grease from a tube of the same brand of grease and fill the void on the end that goes in the barrel. Insert the tube, seat it, pull off the pop top, screw the charged barrel in the gun and go right to work. I have never had an air lock so I guess there are many ways to skin a cat.
 
I store my grease with the tab down. In hopes of there being no void in that end.
 
RiverHills":cbrksc9p said:
When you find the gun you want spend the money and buy a lock n lube to put on it. Best money I spent works great
That's for sure right!
 
I had a Lincoln that worked good and made me swear off manual guns. Batteries didn't last I assume from not being used or charged all the time. Got a Milwaukee now to use same batteries as rest of my tools and love it.
 
Cucumber35":23xwy2u4 said:
I had a Lincoln that worked good and made me swear off manual guns. Batteries didn't last I assume from not being used or charged all the time. Got a Milwaukee now to use same batteries as rest of my tools and love it.
The single worst issue with battery tools is using so many different batteries. B&D use one battery, dewalt uses another and I don;t remember what my hammer drill is that uses another. From now on I think I'll stick with dewalt
 
The key to getting a gun to prime is leaving the barrel unscrewed a turn or two before you release the plunger. It lets the air pocket bleed out.
 

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