Good for another 40 years.....

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jltrent

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I bought this old 1970's chainsaw and it looked awful. It had forty years of oil, dirt, and sawdust on it. The saw had low compression, no spark, no muffler, no bar or chain, major air leak, the recoil didn't work and was pretty much a POS. A new used piston/new caber rings, new carb kit, cleaned the points and adjusted, new crank seal, new bar and chain and major cleaning. I probably got 2-3 hours labor in this thing. It is back sawing. Anybody else like rebuilding junk?


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Did a pressure/vacuum test and the PTO oil seal was bad.
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The air leak ruined the piston as it made it run to lean/hot and scored the piston.
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The compression is almost 155 and should hit 160+ when the rings get broke in. Probably 165-170 new.
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It will bury the 20" bar in red oak with ease.
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Allenw

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Do you have a preferred parts source or brand? I have an 028AV Super I need to rebuild.

Good job on the saw.
 

skyhightree1

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jltrent said:
I bought this old 1970's chainsaw and it looked awful. It had forty years of oil, dirt, and sawdust on it. The saw had low compression, no spark, no muffler, no bar or chain, major air leak, the recoil didn't work and was pretty much a POS. A new used piston/new caber rings, new carb kit, cleaned the points and adjusted, new crank seal, new bar and chain and major cleaning. I probably got 2-3 hours labor in this thing. It is back sawing. Anybody else like rebuilding junk?

I like collecting junk and maybe fix 2 out of 10 pieces of junk i get :lol: good job..I have a old homelite chainsaw think a xl12 is the model i want to get running again it was my great grandfathers.
 
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jltrent

jltrent

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skyhightree1":3az7qwpn said:
jltrent":3az7qwpn said:
I bought this old 1970's chainsaw and it looked awful. It had forty years of oil, dirt, and sawdust on it. The saw had low compression, no spark, no muffler, no bar or chain, major air leak, the recoil didn't work and was pretty much a POS. A new used piston/new caber rings, new carb kit, cleaned the points and adjusted, new crank seal, new bar and chain and major cleaning. I probably got 2-3 hours labor in this thing. It is back sawing. Anybody else like rebuilding junk?

I like collecting junk and maybe fix 2 out of 10 pieces of junk i get :lol: good job..I have a old homelite chainsaw think a xl12 is the model i want to get running again it was my great grandfathers.

I have a blue xl12 with a lightly scored piston appears in great shape otherwise (low hours) when I get the time to fix. I picked it up last fall and haven't had time to repair?

6uE2HKs.jpg
 

skyhightree1

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jltrent":30k2rp4c said:
skyhightree1":30k2rp4c said:
jltrent":30k2rp4c said:
I bought this old 1970's chainsaw and it looked awful. It had forty years of oil, dirt, and sawdust on it. The saw had low compression, no spark, no muffler, no bar or chain, major air leak, the recoil didn't work and was pretty much a POS. A new used piston/new caber rings, new carb kit, cleaned the points and adjusted, new crank seal, new bar and chain and major cleaning. I probably got 2-3 hours labor in this thing. It is back sawing. Anybody else like rebuilding junk?

I like collecting junk and maybe fix 2 out of 10 pieces of junk i get :lol: good job..I have a old homelite chainsaw think a xl12 is the model i want to get running again it was my great grandfathers.

I have a blue xl12 with a lightly scored piston appears in great shape otherwise (low hours) when I get the time to fix. I would like to find a good used OEM piston for it instead of an aftermarket. (No luck yet)

I have a blue one thats heavy as crap and I think a red one too
 

wbvs58

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What model is that jl? I have a Farm Boss from the late 70's I bought brand new and it has the points on it. Any tips in setting up those points? Mine is a bit cranky starting so haven't used it for a few years, I did play with the points a bit which helped it but sure I haven't got them right. I would like to get it back into action.

ken
 
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jltrent

jltrent

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wbvs58":wcy9x2cj said:
What model is that jl? I have a Farm Boss from the late 70's I bought brand new and it has the points on it. Any tips in setting up those points? Mine is a bit cranky starting so haven't used it for a few years, I did play with the points a bit which helped it but sure I haven't got them right. I would like to get it back into action.

ken
This is a Stihl 031. To adjust the points take to two plastic plugs out of flywheel. Set flywheel back on crankshaft and there you have your cam. You can adjust your points from there with a small screwdriver. If you have a ohmmeter/multimeter you can adjust the points by using the timing marks on the flywheel and case. You'll have to remove the coil bolts and slip a sheet of paper under it to keep the coil from grounding on the case, then put an ohmmeter lead on the kill switch wire and another to ground. Adjust the points accordingly, will take a little trial and error. I removed my flywheel to ease point adjustment, then aligned it back onto the key without tightening it down to check adjustments.

The best way to fix these saws is to convert them to electronic ignition. I did two Stihl 032s last year. A lot of good reading on how to do this on the web.
 

wbvs58

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jltrent":17cv2oy8 said:
wbvs58":17cv2oy8 said:
What model is that jl? I have a Farm Boss from the late 70's I bought brand new and it has the points on it. Any tips in setting up those points? Mine is a bit cranky starting so haven't used it for a few years, I did play with the points a bit which helped it but sure I haven't got them right. I would like to get it back into action.

ken
This is a Stihl 031. To adjust the points take to two plastic plugs out of flywheel. Set flywheel back on crankshaft and there you have your cam. You can adjust your points from there with a small screwdriver. If you have a ohmmeter/multimeter you can adjust the points by using the timing marks on the flywheel and case. You'll have to remove the coil bolts and slip a sheet of paper under it to keep the coil from grounding on the case, then put an ohmmeter lead on the kill switch wire and another to ground. Adjust the points accordingly, will take a little trial and error. I removed my flywheel to ease point adjustment, then aligned it back onto the key without tightening it down to check adjustments.

The best way to fix these saws is to convert them to electronic ignition. I did two Stihl 032s last year. A lot of good reading on how to do this on the web.

Thanks JL, I might convert it, sounds like the way to go. Mine is the 031, it has been a very good saw and I think still a lot of life in it, I used it regularly but would not say it has had a lot of heavy work.

Ken
 
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jltrent

jltrent

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It is just a plain ol' XLT 2002 7.3PS 3.73 6 speed handshaker Toreador Red Metallic that needs a good cleaning.

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The dealer forgot to remove the carpet cover. It is still there.
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CURpKzB.jpg
 

Nesikep

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Nice job on it.. I made one good saw out of two bad Husky 394's, and a bit of porting, Really like that saw for big stuff. I no longer split big rounds, just saw them in half..
I built a 064 with an 066 top end, ported, 215 psi compression, the thing is absolutely miserable to start without the decomp, and even so it's not that fun
I picked up a 12mm 044 for $45.. new chain and recoil rope and it runs great, probably my favorite all-around saw, enough balls to go through anything but not awkward and heavy like the 100cc's
I have an XL101 I'm looking for a recoil spring for.. Sky: I might have an XL12 if you need parts, runs but low on compression... The big beast might be a SXL925, they were pretty popular and built for a long time, the blue ones had points ignition, the red ones went to electronic.
I have 5 Husky 2100's to work on.. all in about 6/10 condition with full wraps.. that I have to work on... I have a fleet of Husky L65's, they're pretty boring in stock form but with some modifications they do alright
 
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jltrent

jltrent

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Nesikep":3hzh6qz9 said:
Nice job on it.. I made one good saw out of two bad Husky 394's, and a bit of porting, Really like that saw for big stuff. I no longer split big rounds, just saw them in half..
I built a 064 with an 066 top end, ported, 215 psi compression, the thing is absolutely miserable to start without the decomp, and even so it's not that fun
I picked up a 12mm 044 for $45.. new chain and recoil rope and it runs great, probably my favorite all-around saw, enough balls to go through anything but not awkward and heavy like the 100cc's
I have an XL101 I'm looking for a recoil spring for.. Sky: I might have an XL12 if you need parts, runs but low on compression... The big beast might be a SXL925, they were pretty popular and built for a long time, the blue ones had points ignition, the red ones went to electronic.
I have 5 Husky 2100's to work on.. all in about 6/10 condition with full wraps.. that I have to work on... I have a fleet of Husky L65's, they're pretty boring in stock form but with some modifications they do alright

Nice saws.....the 064 and 044 are some of the best saws ever made IMO. A nice 064 in good shape which is few and far between will bring close to a grand and a 044 7-8 hundred range. I have a 440 and 660 rebuilt recently and stay on the lookout for a 044, but people are proud of them even in junk condition.

Here was an 044 I tried to buy for a rebuilder, but they were proud of it.

9uN3jQT.jpg
 

Nesikep

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I really missed out on a screaming deal, A Husky 3120 with 4' bar for $300 CAD, in good shape.. dang I just saw the ad too late!
 

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