Ford 3600 injection pump leaking
- Thread starter Rising2KRanch
- Start date
Several years back I replaced the throttle shaft seal on a Case 850G Dozer with a seal kit. I bet you can find an Injection pump shop that sells a kit. Can't remember excactly but got something one tooth off when putting the top back on and it idled high. Luckily I checked the rpm before the fix so was able to get it back right.
Rising2KRanch
Well-known member
So shouldn't be anything to crazy then. I've done some before just nothing on a tractor that's all. I have a parts/service manual I plan to dig into but figured I'd ask if anyone has some insight
chevytaHOE5674
Well-known member
Rotary pump should be an O-ring on the shaft. Part number is 49886 from New Holland I believe.
But you'll also want the gasket for the governor cover which comes with the o-rings typically. Part number C5NE9C568A.
Fairly simple job. Just get everything super clean on the outside before disassembly, and keep the insides clean.
But you'll also want the gasket for the governor cover which comes with the o-rings typically. Part number C5NE9C568A.
Fairly simple job. Just get everything super clean on the outside before disassembly, and keep the insides clean.
Rising2KRanch
Well-known member
Oh perfect thank you. Figured it was an oring just wasn't 100% sure. I appreciate it!
wbvs58
Well-known member
It is pretty straight forward, kits are available on ebay and pretty cheap for those CAV pumps. I did one last year and replaced all the seals, some good videos on youtube, "Bundy Bear" does a good one and sells the kits but is in Australia. I took mine off the tractor to do all the seals but that one being horizontal would be easy to do on the tractor if you just wanted to replace that seal, just know what to expect when you lift the cover and as was said get it super clean first.
Ken
Ken
I did that job on my 3600 a few years ago. The kit comes with the shaft O-rings and the top plate cover seal. When removing take the bolts loose and push the shaft down through the top and then remove the cover. There is a spring under the cover that is easy to drop down into the pump so be careful. Here is the complete kit with the O-rings. When reassembling it is a little tricky getting the linkage shaft 9throttle shaft) back on top of the pump mounted right. Doing a first kit install is a little tricky, but I could do a second in a few minutes.
Ford C5NE9C568A CAV Diesel Injection Pump Gasket & Seal Kit 2000 3000 4000 5000 | eBay
Replaces: C5NE9C568A, 81810975, 895963H1, 384771R1, 49886, 356201S34. Do not replace gasket with out replacing the washers and orings or you will take a good chance of the pump leaking and having to do it all over again.
www.ebay.com
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Rising2KRanch
Well-known member
Oh perfect thank you. Is that spring hard to keep in place or will it sit fine if I take that cap off slowly? I plan to do the shaft oring and the cover seal. If there's more if can I will while in there but just trying to stop a leak right now.I did that job on my 3600 a few years ago. The kit comes with the shaft O-rings and the top plate cover seal. When removing take the bolts loose and push the shafts down through the top and then remove the cover. There is a spring under the cover that is easy to drop down into the pump so be careful. Here is the complete kit with the O-rings. When reassembling it is a little tricky getting the linkage shaft 9throttle shaft) back on top of the pump mounted right. Doing a first kit install is a little tricky, but I could do a second in a few minutes.
Ford C5NE9C568A CAV Diesel Injection Pump Gasket & Seal Kit 2000 3000 4000 5000 | eBay
Replaces: C5NE9C568A, 81810975, 895963H1, 384771R1, 49886, 356201S34. Do not replace gasket with out replacing the washers and orings or you will take a good chance of the pump leaking and having to do it all over again.www.ebay.com
The spring is attached to the throttle shaft so if you push the shaft in as you remove the top and be careful it should stay attached.
Here is a video showing the spring and help doing the job.
Rising2KRanch
Well-known member
Thank you kindly
greybeard
Well-known member
Even I was able to do this several years ago, pretty much using the same tips from the same CT members that have responded in this thread. Glad too because I was getting tired of turning the fuel valve off every time I parked it. Forgot sometimes and killed plenty of grass where I parked. Left in the yard all one weekend once, valve open and wife was pee'd when she saw the big brown spot on the front yard.
Rising2KRanch
Well-known member
So I may have not read the instructions. But that's okay, that's what we do best haha. I replaced the gasket and the orings on both shafts. Have fuel going to pump, and filter. I can get a few bubbles from two injectors but doesn't put out a lot of fuel, cranks but doesn't sound like it's trying to kick over. I watched the video, is it possible that the fuel shut off is off and just not allowing fuel?
kenny thomas
Well-known member
You have to loosen the line at the rear injector and crank it until fuel runs out or it starts. If your just getting bubbles its still full of air.
Rising2KRanch
Well-known member
Closest to the front of the tractor or to steering wheel. Looks like a fuel return off the tops is the towards the front?
greybeard
Well-known member
Yep, you first bleed air out of the filters, then the pump which is done without needing to rotate the engine but you need to loosen a line AT 1 (and maybe more) injectors and have someone crank the engine over while you watch for fuel to come out the line. If you don't do this, the only thing that will happen is the pressurized fuel in the pump will simply compress the air that is in the injector line but that is not enough to force the air on our thru the injector. Once you see clear fuel coming out the line, tighten the nut down and that cylinder should fire and you can loosen the other 2 line nuts one at a time and bleed the air out of those lines. MAKE DANG SURE THE TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL WITH YOUR HELPER IN THE SEAT and his/her foot on the clutch while you're bleeding those lines. When I do it alone and use a remote push button on the starter solenoid, I still tie the clutch pedal down even tho I know it's in neutral.
PTO off and lift handle down pits less strain on starter motor too.
PTO off and lift handle down pits less strain on starter motor too.
kenny thomas
Well-known member
Nearest the steering wheel. On most older Ford tractors it will start after bleeding just that line. It may run rough a few seconds but that's normal.
wbvs58
Well-known member
Try starting it with the fuel shut off the opposite way. I can recall something where it is easy to replace the fuel shut off lever back to front. I can't remember the exact details but something similar happened to me where on was off and vice versus until I corrected it. If you have the fuel lines at the injectors cracked off there will be a noticeable difference in the fuel coming out of those lines between on and off.
Ken
Ken
Rising2KRanch
Well-known member
So I cracked the first injector closest to the steering wheel and cranked it and nothing. I was able to pull the line off the injector and had it cranked, and say in 10 seconds a little drop of clear diesel came out. That was it.
kenny thomas
Well-known member
Is your filter full?
Rising2KRanch
Well-known member
I loosened the top bolt/plug ontop of the filter housing and fuel comes pouring out, closed it, then opened the little needle valve on the pump and fuel comes spraying out there. It has half a tank of fuel as well
