Floating brace

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Dun - Have you used this method before? I think it has possibilities on my dividing fences but I would really like to see how they work or at least hear from someone before I would use it on a perimeter fence. Very interesting.
 
Jalopy":fq25woh5 said:
Dun - Have you used this method before? I think it has possibilities on my dividing fences but I would really like to see how they work or at least hear from someone before I would use it on a perimeter fence. Very interesting.

Unless I hang a swinging gate from it that's the only kind of brace I use.
 
I just fenced in a whole farm with 3 strand high tensile and using the floating brace, was real fast and no doubt I could put a couple more wires on them.
 
I appearently put my brace up too high, I thought I would have the most torgue at the end of the lever - what are the thoughts on this?
 
Stocker Steve":1tws4fgj said:
Dun - do you also make twine gates like they show in these photos?

Don;t see the twine gates you asked about.
 
hayray":1sdbjtkn said:
I appearently put my brace up too high, I thought I would have the most torgue at the end of the lever - what are the thoughts on this?
We only use a single strand for 99% of our fence and I put it at about 4 foot above the ground, the wire is about 32 inches.
I also don;t knowtch the posts I just use a pin through the brace and into the post to keep them in place.
 
I have been using H braces for perimeter fencing and buy the tee post "Speed Brace" brackets for single strand interior fence. Did 3 miles last year, about 2 miles to go.

Dun - the "twine gates" show up partially in the right hand side of some photos. Looks like a turn off the insulator, a tube against the wood post, and then some conductive rope going across the gate.
 
For our high tensile electric we either use an insulated wire buried under the gate opening so that the line stays hot all the time with a switch on one side so that it can be turned off for trouble shooting or a section of hightensile across the gate opening that is connected to the unpowered side. With the first type we use a bungy gate, those are used in areas that aren't used very often for cattle. For the other type we use the gate itself as a switch.
I can;t explain it very well but could show you in about 30 seconds what I mean.
 
Why not just build a H brace? Do you find this method easier or is it about saving on posts?
 
dun":2nc8t5n4 said:
hayray":2nc8t5n4 said:
I appearently put my brace up too high, I thought I would have the most torgue at the end of the lever - what are the thoughts on this?
We only use a single strand for 99% of our fence and I put it at about 4 foot above the ground, the wire is about 32 inches.
I also don;t knowtch the posts I just use a pin through the brace and into the post to keep them in place.
I used the pin on most of them, think it was faster then notching. Also that ratchet for the brace wire is faster then when I used a twist stick on some of the others. You guys use high tensile for brace wire or 9 gauge brace?
 
EAT BEEF":1rlkxqhs said:
Why not just build a H brace? Do you find this method easier or is it about saving on posts?
Faster and far easier. Also once it's in it can be adjusted for tightness as it needs it.
 
hayray":2zpg3d7y said:
dun":2zpg3d7y said:
hayray":2zpg3d7y said:
I appearently put my brace up too high, I thought I would have the most torgue at the end of the lever - what are the thoughts on this?
We only use a single strand for 99% of our fence and I put it at about 4 foot above the ground, the wire is about 32 inches.
I also don;t knowtch the posts I just use a pin through the brace and into the post to keep them in place.
I used the pin on most of them, think it was faster then notching. Also that ratchet for the brace wire is faster then when I used a twist stick on some of the others. You guys use high tensile for brace wire or 9 gauge brace?
I use hightensile. I use the daisy tightners rather then the ratchet kind, they're cheaper.
 
Can anyone explain the mathmatical priniciple that makes this work ? what forces are involved? is there pressure on the ground plate or does it float? I showed this to a fence builder , he will not accept this will stay straight over a period of time, he thinks in wet soft ground if pressure is on the plate it will slowly sink causing the post to lean, Can any one explain the principles behind it?
 
cowboy43":p7n1fgnl said:
Can anyone explain the mathmatical priniciple that makes this work ? what forces are involved? is there pressure on the ground plate or does it float? I showed this to a fence builder , he will not accept this will stay straight over a period of time, he thinks in wet soft ground if pressure is on the plate it will slowly sink causing the post to lean, Can any one explain the principles behind it?

I use rocks about 18 inches square, haven;t had one sink into the gorund yet. The rock sits on the ground and the end of the brace floats on the rock. If it should get a little lean you tighten up the bottom wire and it pushes the post back straight.
 
What you are doing then is setting the post to the front of the hole where it is solid and will not move , then taking the brace and wire to push the top of the post back and the brace floats. I think I get it if I can make him understand, I will build one the next time I build fence and see how it works. If you set the post in the middle of hole and tamped it in, then with this kind of strain on it and the first rain that soaks the tamped dirt, would not the bottom tend to slide forward till it hits the solid wall and kick the top of pole back looseing the bottom wires.
 
cowboy43":o5u39j9e said:
What you are doing then is setting the post to the front of the hole where it is solid and will not move , then taking the brace and wire to push the top of the post back and the brace floats. I think I get it if I can make him understand, I will build one the next time I build fence and see how it works. If you set the post in the middle of hole and tamped it in, then with this kind of strain on it and the first rain that soaks the tamped dirt, would not the bottom tend to slide forward till it hits the solid wall and kick the top of pole back looseing the bottom wires.

It might, but with our "soil" finding anything that can move a post after it has been set is pretty hard.
 
I guess every soil is different , I have never been able to set a 3 post corner brace without it giving untill I started cementing them in. I know they say not to cement it will rot the post but I have removed pine treated post that was cemented and in the ground 20 years and they had not rotted. If I build the floating brace I will cement it in. Still have not convinced the fence builder , will have to build it to prove it works.
 

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