First Soil Sample

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Soggy Bottom

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I did a soil sample on 18 acres I plan to sprig in Coastal in the next 4-6 weeks. I received my sample back and wanted to make sure I'm on the right track. It shows a ph of 6.9 which should be good for coastal. It looks like I need 90 units of nitrogen and 50 units of phosphorus. When buying fertilizer would this be something like a 20-10-0? Also, how many pounds of fertilizer per acre should I put out initially? Thanks for the help with this.
 
Soggy Bottom said:
I did a soil sample on 18 acres I plan to sprig in Coastal in the next 4-6 weeks. I received my sample back and wanted to make sure I'm on the right track. It shows a ph of 6.9 which should be good for coastal. It looks like I need 90 units of nitrogen and 50 units of phosphorus. When buying fertilizer would this be something like a 20-10-0? Also, how many pounds of fertilizer per acre should I put out initially? Thanks for the help with this.
If using 20-10-0 about 500 lb per acre.
 
Sprig the Bermuda and let it get going and control any weeds before applying any fertilizer. Fertilize after the Bermuda is starting to take off. Split the fertilizer into about three applications.
 
sstterry said:
Kenny was right again!

It's all easy once the soil test is done. Without it were just stabbing in the dark.
Many companies will custom mix and even label the bags according to the field. Great service if your's does.
 
Kenny and Hurley have given good advice. I would call the lab and ask for a recommendation for establishment. They can do that from your lab sample number. It may change a little from the 1 cutting plus grazing recommendation. I like the split applications that have been recommended.
 
Kenny and Hurley have given good advice. I would call the lab and ask for a recommendation for establishment. They can do that from your lab sample number. It may change a little from the 1 cutting plus grazing recommendation. I like the split applications that have been recommended.
 
If a sample is done on an established field do you take the recommendations and divide it by the expected cuttings to get the total quantity applied by the end of hay season?
 
Soggy Bottom said:
If a sample is done on an established field do you take the recommendations and divide it by the expected cuttings to get the total quantity applied by the end of hay season?
If you plan to cut multiple times, put that in the request. The results will come back with what you need to do for 1st and subsequent cuttings. Your sample was for one cutting and then grazing.

As to the question of a 0 lbs recommendation for potassium, I bet you are on some heavier soils maybe even blackland soils. Those soils are typically higher in potassium than lighter sandy soils. Remember if you cut more than once per season you may need to apply potassium.
 
sstterry said:
Pardon my ignorance, but how far apart should the two applications be and what is the benefit of breaking them up?

With a big requirement, splitting reduces variation in the coverage. Also, certain kinds of plants will overuse certain minerals if they are available. "Luxury Consumption."

Main issue is N does not last. It leaches or evaporates pretty quickly. They teach that most is either used or gone in 30 days, or the first big rain, whichever comes first.

N stabilizers that coat the pellets are a fairly new thing that you should consider using.
 
Stocker Steve said:
sstterry said:
Pardon my ignorance, but how far apart should the two applications be and what is the benefit of breaking them up?

With a big requirement, splitting reduces variation in the coverage. Also, certain kinds of plants will overuse certain minerals if they are available. "Luxury Consumption."

Main issue is N does not last. It leaches or evaporates pretty quickly. They teach that most is either used or gone in 30 days, or the first big rain, whichever comes first.

N stabilizers that coat the pellets are a fairly new thing that you should consider using.

I, of course, was aware of the nitrogen issue as far as not lasting long. It was the P and K I was confused about. But, you answered my question. Thank you.
 
20-10-0 ? How is 20-10-0 mixed? lbs of urea? lbs of DAP? lbs of filler?
I would get both the urea & DAP treated,
but then what do I know, my friends say my brain is wired a little different.
 
BC said:
Soggy Bottom said:
If a sample is done on an established field do you take the recommendations and divide it by the expected cuttings to get the total quantity applied by the end of hay season?
If you plan to cut multiple times, put that in the request. The results will come back with what you need to do for 1st and subsequent cuttings. Your sample was for one cutting and then grazing.

As to the question of a 0 lbs recommendation for potassium, I bet you are on some heavier soils maybe even blackland soils. Those soils are typically higher in potassium than lighter sandy soils. Remember if you cut more than once per season you may need to apply potassium.

My farm of 40 years in Houston Black Clay, little acidic PH. Coffee shop verbiage from "insiders" (born here residents) is that the high P content that shows up in soil tests is adequate so that none is needed to be added. No one to date has answered the other scuttlebutt that the native P is locked up in the soil and as a result is no use to the plants. Still unanswered so I add P.

My readings for slightly alkaline soils are no Lime since PH is already where you want it and for Coastal Bermuda a 3-1-2 ratio on NPK. However, since P makes blossoms on flowers and roots on new growth, I do a balanced application when looking for root establishment. My soil test results from TAMU don't include whether or not the P discussed is locked or available.
 
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