First Calf Heifers
- Thread starter Kaden
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bird dog
Well-known member
Make sure they are at the right size to began with. If they are too little frame size wise, and body score wise, you won't have much of a chance. For me its not that difficult becasue I like the heifer to be 27 months old at her first calving date.
Some of them it doesn't matter what you do, they will be late on their 2nd. I love to buy the ones that other people cull because they are late. Somebody spent $1500 and a lot of time for a young cow that has had a calf and now I am buying her for $950. If she is still open in 6 months, I can get my money back as she will be bigger and in better shape for a packer cow.
Some of them it doesn't matter what you do, they will be late on their 2nd. I love to buy the ones that other people cull because they are late. Somebody spent $1500 and a lot of time for a young cow that has had a calf and now I am buying her for $950. If she is still open in 6 months, I can get my money back as she will be bigger and in better shape for a packer cow.
Ky hills
Well-known member
Supplemental feed mine a little, before and after they calve, and keep a good chelated type mineral out for them.
I'm also a believer in using calving ease bulls that sire small calves that come easy
I'm also a believer in using calving ease bulls that sire small calves that come easy
Depends... Did she calve unassisted? How is her temperament? Was she a good mother to her first calf? How's her milk - is the calf growing good?
I try to breed heifers so they are 24 months old on the pregnancy due date.
Silver
Well-known member
We don't keep anything that doesn't breed back on time, it just doesn't make business sense.
As far as keeping their condition up, ours go into the winter in good shape off grass and get fed hay, haylage, and greenfeed silage bales.
I try to use bulls that won't cause a wreck but don't aim for small calves. A well developed heifer should not need help with an 80 lb calf, and should be able to wean at least a 550 lb calf in 210 days and breed back on time. Not all of them will of course, but keeping only those that do what you ask keeps the ship on course.
As far as keeping their condition up, ours go into the winter in good shape off grass and get fed hay, haylage, and greenfeed silage bales.
I try to use bulls that won't cause a wreck but don't aim for small calves. A well developed heifer should not need help with an 80 lb calf, and should be able to wean at least a 550 lb calf in 210 days and breed back on time. Not all of them will of course, but keeping only those that do what you ask keeps the ship on course.
Dave
Well-known member
Stop making excuses for your cows and you will have cows that don't need excuses.
Jeanne - Simme Valley
Well-known member
Get them grown out properly so they calve at 24 months old and in BCS of 6.0 to 6.5.
They should breed back on time.
I feed good baleage and loose quality mineral.
They should breed back on time.
I feed good baleage and loose quality mineral.
What is the scenario surrounding your question?
As a general statement, you have to determine if you caused the problem or if they just won't make it in your operation.
As a general statement, you have to determine if you caused the problem or if they just won't make it in your operation.
wbvs58
Well-known member
They have two destiny's in life, if they don't fullfill the first destiny, they move onto the 2nd one.
Ken
Ken
All good answers! As a general rule, if they don't breed back, they take a ride. Primarily because I have a defined calving period but also because an open heifer (or cow) tends to get fat (and she's not making me any money). The exception was a heifer that had an "oops baby" and I really didn't expect her to breed back before I pulled the bulls (late in the season).
As far as feed, retained & bred heifers are separated from the main herd until the breds have their first calf and I make sure they have quality hay and supplement with cubes. They're all a solid BCS 6.
As far as feed, retained & bred heifers are separated from the main herd until the breds have their first calf and I make sure they have quality hay and supplement with cubes. They're all a solid BCS 6.
My heifers are close to calving and I'm trying to figure things out. I plan to take pairs to summer pasture. Should I continue to feed them cubes over the summer or see how they hold up on grass. I plan to pull calves at 5 months to give heifers time to recooperate. I feel like if I provide them with optimal forage and some grain they should breed back and ones that don't should be culled.
My heifers are close to calving and I'm trying to figure things out. I plan to take pairs to summer pasture. Should I continue to feed them cubes over the summer or see how they hold up on grass. I plan to pull calves at 5 months to give heifers time to recooperate. I feel like if I provide them with optimal forage and some grain they should breed back and ones that don't should be culled.
The bad news is... it's probably going to be trial and error. With out knowing the quality of your summer pasture no one can really answer that. Even then, pasture conditions can vary year to year.
From my own experience, we have a place that is just hard on cattle. The grass is not good enough to support a heifer trying to breed back and grow herself still. You will end up having to supplement them a lot to the point its not economical no matter what.
10 miles north of there the same exact heifers will be butterball fat and breed right back with out any supplements.
Basically I start the young cattle at the one and only move mature cattle to the other.
With out that ability you have a couple choices.
Basically, sink or swim and let them go and see what they do.
Monitor them and try to apply feed as needed. That can be tricky if you are new to it.
Lastly, shoot for the upper end and apply steady feed as insurance.
In all the cases I would suggest you run the costs of each. Sink or swim will appear cheap on the front end but heavy culling comes at a cost. Applying as you go can be great if you do it right. It can be costly if you get behind the curve. Lastly, just applying feed can be costly but may pay dividends.
In any scenario, no matter what method, if 8 of the 10 breed back and 2 don't, the 2 probably need to go. If 2 out of 10 breed back. You might need to reevaluate the whole deal.
Short answer, it won't hurt to give some cubes for a little boost and make sure they come to you. My only opinion on that is don't feed a junk 12% or even a 20%. Feed a good cottonseed cube or some thing of quality.
Stocker Steve
Well-known member
use easy fleshing genetics
Jeanne - Simme Valley
Well-known member
Welcome to the boards. WHERE are you located? If you would go to top right corner of page, click on your name and put in your location. Location determines a lot of our answers. You may introduce yourself and tell us where you are located, but we may miss your introduction or (like me) won't remember the next time we see your name. As you can see when you look at all our avatars to the left, our location shows up.
I plan to have one with them for 60 days.
