Finishing grassfed cattle

[Dave]

If your soil is lacking it can take a lot of time to build up fertility. In the short term in the area to be used to finish the steers apply a lighter application of N. Maybe 50 lbs per acre. The fact is it takes N to make protein. If your soil is lacking in N the grass will also be lacking in protein. Also look into intense rotational grazing for these steers. That done properly will insure that they will always have the bast available grass in front of them. I had amazing results doing this in Western Washington in a climate fairly similar to yours.

 

[Allenw]

They need to be kept on a adequate level of nutrition at all times to grow and finish to their full potential. That may mean supplementing them with hay or moving them ahead of the other cattle giving them first choice.

 

[Stickney94]

My fiance is a 3rd generation 100% grassfed beef farmer. We live in central Maine and we have a cow calf operation as well as finish our own beef. It has always been a struggle to get cattle close to finish weight for processing and from my observations it has never been a goal to improve this on the farm. I am making it a goal now!

I'm not here to debate grass finished vs other forms of finishing. It all has it place

I have 2 steers that will be processed this summer and I'm wondering what I can do to help improve our processing weights. Currently we just put them out to pasture (rotational graze) and we don't currently pay much attention to forage quality. I haven't been able to find much guidance in terms of what I can do to my pastures to help them gain weight or what practices I should be attempting to utilize so I'm looking for guidance here

When you say you struggle to get to finish weight -- what weight are you looking for? What time period are you looking for them to finish?

Improving forage certainly can be done but as others have mentioned it likely involves inputs (fertilizer/seed), time, and likely equipment. The best "pasture finishing" in my area is done by grazing high % alfalfa/clover (legume) paddocks.

Using AI to inject some new genetics can definitely work. But that takes a bit of research/knowledge and possibly a bit of luck in choosing the right sire. It is probably the lowest out of pocket cost option. But it's not a guarantee.

Also, for the record -- corn is a grass. Grains are also grasses. This is just a terminology pet-peeve of mine

 

[andybob]

Jaime Elizondo has experience in both grass based genetics and maximising grazing, see if there is anything that interests you for your climate and management - https://www.rwranching.com/Meet Jim

 

[WolfCreek]

If your soil is lacking it can take a lot of time to build up fertility. In the short term in the area to be used to finish the steers apply a lighter application of N. Maybe 50 lbs per acre. The fact is it takes N to make protein. If your soil is lacking in N the grass will also be lacking in protein. Also look into intense rotational grazing for these steers. That done properly will insure that they will always have the bast available grass in front of them. I had amazing results doing this in Western Washington in a climate fairly similar to yours.

Thank you for your reply Dave! With that being said, shouldn't I be more concerned about sugar vs protein for finishing? I have a crap ton to learn!

 

[WolfCreek]

When you say you struggle to get to finish weight -- what weight are you looking for? What time period are you looking for them to finish?

Improving forage certainly can be done but as others have mentioned it likely involves inputs (fertilizer/seed), time, and likely equipment. The best "pasture finishing" in my area is done by grazing high % alfalfa/clover (legume) paddocks.

Using AI to inject some new genetics can definitely work. But that takes a bit of research/knowledge and possibly a bit of luck in choosing the right sire. It is probably the lowest out of pocket cost option. But it's not a guarantee.

Also, for the record -- corn is a grass. Grains are also grasses. This is just a terminology pet-peeve of mine

HAHA I completely understand I guess when I say grass fed I'm feeding them before the grass gets to that grain stage but I do completely agree if grazed before a certain point corn and grains are considered grasses

I honestly haven't been tracking our weights very well that is on my "To do better" list but I think we have been getting about 300# of final product but that is just a guess. Currently our beef is reaching 2.5 to 3 years old before they look filled out enough to slaughter. I'd love to get that age to 2 which means they will be on nice forage during the spring/summer.

 

[WolfCreek]

Jaime Elizondo has experience in both grass based genetics and maximising grazing, see if there is anything that interests you for your climate and management - https://www.rwranching.com/Meet Jim

Thank you for the recommendation I'll look into it!

 

[WolfCreek]

@WolfCreek, welcome to Cattle Today! You are getting some excellent suggestions here, but I'd like to add some 'why' to these. I don't know what your soil tests show for nutrient availability, but correcting the pH before considering any actual fertilization is important. The reason being, is that when the pH is 'off', nutrients that are in the soil aren't as readily available to the forage grasses even when present or in worse cases, may even be present in the soil and not be reflected at actual levels in your soil test. Additionally, if you add nutrients to a soil with a skewed pH, the nutrients you have added very well might not even be accessible by the forages due to the pH.

You indicate that you rotational graze and I appreciate that. Many producers know that rotational grazing is the right thing to do, but they don't realize there is 'minimum' correct way to rotational graze and a whole lot of different 'incorrect' ways to rotational graze. I'd encourage you to check out the threads here on "The four Never Fail Rules of Grazing" or Google the same. Proper rotational grazing will promote root growth. Roots on grass plants are completely replaced after two years. As a result, all the roots you see on a grass plant will be "converted" to below ground organic matter two years from now. Converting roots (if you have a lot of them and proper rotational grazing will get you a lot of them) to organic matter is much better than adding hay on the surface of the soil for organic matter, that doesn't get incorporated into the soil. Don't think tilling the soil will get the OM from the surface to mix into the soil. More organic matter is actually destroyed than is mixed in if you do this.

Genetics is key when grass feeding/finishing, and frame size is a big part of it. Bigger framed cattle have a more difficult time grass finishing than smaller framed cattle as a rule, but it's not a perfect correlation, hence why you want to look at the genetics.

You might consider some annual forages for grazing that might contribute to a possible faster marbling rate such as oats or some legumes. However, I would suspect you will get a faster improvement on finishing animals by focusing on their genetics.

All beautiful advice thank you!!! I will look into The Four Never Fail Rules of Grazing! It's been a big struggle for me to convince my partner that we should be switching to bale grazing but I'll keep poking him about it!

 

[WolfCreek]

For niche beef thats cheap. I know of some grass fed selling for 4.50 here. Has been getting that for several years.
But i do understand what you are saying there also.

I used to sell my beef for $7/# on the rail, I've now switched over to final package weight to help with customer confusion and price between $10-$13/#

 

[RDFF]

3

HAHA I completely understand I guess when I say grass fed I'm feeding them before the grass gets to that grain stage but I do completely agree if grazed before a certain point corn and grains are considered grasses

I honestly haven't been tracking our weights very well that is on my "To do better" list but I think we have been getting about 300# of final product but that is just a guess. Currently our beef is reaching 2.5 to 3 years old before they look filled out enough to slaughter. I'd love to get that age to 2 which means they will be on nice forage during the spring/summer.

300# hanging weight? That's a pretty small animal... around 6-something or so live weight. This is a concern IMO if you've been focused on "small framed critters". Though it's true that smaller critters are easier to do on grass (takes less grass just for maintenance energy per animal, lighter on the soil, etc.) I believe that you can overdo that personally. If you're ever having to take any of 'em to the commercial market, they'll balk at 'em. I like my cows to be in that 1200# range, not HUGE, but not so small that they (and their offspring) won't be able to go to the sale barn reasonably either.

 

[Dave]

Thank you for your reply Dave! With that being said, shouldn't I be more concerned about sugar vs protein for finishing? I have a crap ton to learn!

You are not going to get too much protein out of grass with that low of an application of N. It is pretty hard to get too much protein out of grass. You do want higher energy to finish but you do need protein also and you want good healthy grass growth. If it is taking 3 years to grow them enough you may need better genetics in your cattle.

 

[Jeanne - Simme Valley]

He - welcome to the board. You have gotten some great advice and some sketchy - but a lot to add to your knowledge. Your steers need to be on GROWING grass.
Think about your lawn. It is beautiful lush & green. It gets mowed - often!
Your cattle should be allowed an area that they can consume in no more than 7 days (4 is great). You can do this with electric polywire. For them to get nutrition with every bite, the feed/grass needs to be GROWING - therefore you need to "mow" it. Not as often as your lawn, but it should rest at least 30 days before you let them graze again. NEVER leave them on the same piece of ground more than 7 days. That is the cardinal sin in grazing.
Yes, cattle need protein to GROW - but they will start getting fat as soon as they GROW their frame.
If you are getting 300# hot carcass weights, you have dwarfs. I think you mean 300# of actual MEAT in the freezer. That would be a 450# HCW = about a 750# live weight. That is horrible growth for 2 - 3 years. People have weaned calves weighing that much (7 months old). Genetics Genetics . You have an uphill battle. Do you have any idea how much the COWS weigh? Maybe the finished steers are that light because they are starved for 2-3 years?? Don't take that wrong. I'm not accusing you of starving your (families) animals on purpose - but, they easily could be from lack of pasture.

 

[anewcomer]

This is not gonna end well. Knowing how to create properly finished grass-fed beef, beef that is comparable to choice or better grain fed beef is comparable to doing brain surgery and rocket science at the same time. The level of grass management and animal management required far exceeds that of but a handful of American producers. Especially in you plan to provide meat year round. In addition, the climate in most of our country adds an extra challenge. Yes, you can slaughter an animal that has never been fed grain, and yes, you can sell it to a tiny group of people who don't really care how it tastes, and yes, if you get really good at it, you can learn to make it taste acceptable. Don't even think about the economics of the process. WolfCreek, I wish you luck, but you've got a long way to go.

 

[ClinchValley86]

What species are you grazing? You need diversity. Legumes and forbs do more than grass in my opinion.

What target weight do they finish at and what age? What season do you harvest in? Autumn is ideal I'd you're relying on perennial pasture. Planting annuals and grazing intensively is the only way to offer good stuff year round

Got any pics of the beef yall have produced?

Sorry if already answered. Lots to read thru on this thread.

Proper grass finished is my preference. But improperly done it gives us all a bad rep.

Grassfed definitely is not the same as grass finished. I'm sure you already know this.

 

[Allenw]

We need a general idea of how the animals are cared for and fed throughout their life to get better understanding to be of more help.

 

[Mark Reynolds]

He - welcome to the board. You have gotten some great advice and some sketchy - but a lot to add to your knowledge. Your steers need to be on GROWING grass.
Think about your lawn. It is beautiful lush & green. It gets mowed - often!
Your cattle should be allowed an area that they can consume in no more than 7 days (4 is great). You can do this with electric polywire. For them to get nutrition with every bite, the feed/grass needs to be GROWING - therefore you need to "mow" it. Not as often as your lawn, but it should rest at least 30 days before you let them graze again. NEVER leave them on the same piece of ground more than 7 days. That is the cardinal sin in grazing.
Yes, cattle need protein to GROW - but they will start getting fat as soon as they GROW their frame.
If you are getting 300# hot carcass weights, you have dwarfs. I think you mean 300# of actual MEAT in the freezer. That would be a 450# HCW = about a 750# live weight. That is horrible growth for 2 - 3 years. People have weaned calves weighing that much (7 months old). Genetics Genetics . You have an uphill battle. Do you have any idea how much the COWS weigh? Maybe the finished steers are that light because they are starved for 2-3 years?? Don't take that wrong. I'm not accusing you of starving your (families) animals on purpose - but, they easily could be from lack of pasture.

Hey! @Jeanne - Simme Valley, @WolfCreek is supposed to go look up the 4 Never Fail Rules! You just gave him two of them! . I appreciate you chiming in. It's reinforcement of the rules by someone implementing them and can give concrete evidence that they work.

Bale grazing is probably the best way to feed hay. Unrolled is arguably better but if you can't unroll it, feeding the whole bale on pasture is the next best thing. The thing about whole bales, if you go this route, NEVER feed two bales in the same or consecutive seasons in the exact same place. A side note, bale rings are over-rated. The ring actually concentrates the waste and creates more of a nutrient sink. Spreading some hay out (by the cows) and "wasting" it isn't a bad thing. Ask your extension agent to calculate the fertilizer value in hay for you. You might find out that you can fertilize cheaper with hay than the use of fertilizer itself. Run the numbers. You may be surprised.

 

[Mark Reynolds]

You are not going to get too much protein out of grass with that low of an application of N. It is pretty hard to get too much protein out of grass. You do want higher energy to finish but you do need protein also and you want good healthy grass growth. If it is taking 3 years to grow them enough you may need better genetics in your cattle.

@Dave, There is a potential concern for grass tetany over here with nitrogen applications, especially in the spring. However, feeding magnesium as a trace mineral or in a block will prevent any concern. There should be adequate to more than adequate protein in the forages in Maine. WAY down south it can be a concern of TOO LOW protein levels as well as west of the Mississippi.

 

[WolfCreek]

3

300# hanging weight? That's a pretty small animal... around 6-something or so live weight. This is a concern IMO if you've been focused on "small framed critters". Though it's true that smaller critters are easier to do on grass (takes less grass just for maintenance energy per animal, lighter on the soil, etc.) I believe that you can overdo that personally. If you're ever having to take any of 'em to the commercial market, they'll balk at 'em. I like my cows to be in that 1200# range, not HUGE, but not so small that they (and their offspring) won't be able to go to the sale barn reasonably either.

I apologize I sell my meat per pound package weight so 300# final product per animal is what we usually bring back from the butcher

 

[Dave]

@Dave, There is a potential concern for grass tetany over here with nitrogen applications, especially in the spring. However, feeding magnesium as a trace mineral or in a block will prevent any concern. There should be adequate to more than adequate protein in the forages in Maine. WAY down south it can be a concern of TOO LOW protein levels as well as west of the Mississippi.

That is why I just said 50 pounds per acre. Pretty light application. Shabtai Bitman and the guys up at Agassiz BC got their best yields with 20% commercial fertilizer and 80% N in manure. The plants took up the commercial before the soil warmed up enough to make the bugs start to break down the manure.

 

[Jeanne - Simme Valley]

Yes, 300# meat - so you have about a 750# animal - at the age of 2 or 3 years old. You really want to tackle this project? The more you learn, the more you are going to pizz off your partner!!! That animal is a disgrace to the beef industry. And I am NOT saying this to upset you. Just letting you know you have a BIG hill to climb.
Again, do you have any idea how much the cows weigh? Or do you just buy steers to finish out on grass?