KenB
Well-known member
dun":1m74g2ox said:Before considering a jack you might want to read the attached
http://mdc4.mdc.mo.gov/Documents/249.pdf
dun, that is an interesting article. thanks
dun":1m74g2ox said:Before considering a jack you might want to read the attached
http://mdc4.mdc.mo.gov/Documents/249.pdf
dun":3238l5fj said:Before considering a jack you might want to read the attached
http://mdc4.mdc.mo.gov/Documents/249.pdf
RD-Sam":1m11e6ep said:1982vett":1m11e6ep said:Check your prices on the 4x6's. A 6" x 8' post is/was cheaper than a 4x6-8 around here by about $2.
#2 treated Cypress in a 6 X 6 X 8 here is $14.97, I think the 4 X 6 treated pine was $12 and change, they have came down several dollars in the last couple of months.
Red Bull Breeder":2u7ge1xi said:Do not get a jack use a jenny.
Red Bull Breeder":satdz9zl said:I didn't read the article Dun, but have had experence with Jacks. Dad had a big Jack for raising work mules when i was a kid. That SOB was mean.
RD-Sam":1l5snk6v said:how are the jackasses about staying close
dun":aj48120k said:Red Bull Breeder":aj48120k said:Do not get a jack use a jenny.
That was part of the point I hoped the article would get across.
grannysoo":1s1k61k0 said:dun":1s1k61k0 said:Red Bull Breeder":1s1k61k0 said:Do not get a jack use a jenny.
That was part of the point I hoped the article would get across.
Thanks Red Bull & dun. I was coming back to this point even before I read the article. Jackass is a generic term for the animal, however a Jack (male) can be very aggressive and a trouble-maker. The Jenny (female) is always the one that you want on the farm with the animals.
You might also consider a Livestock Guardian Dog (LGD). We have an Anatolian Shepard that lives with our animals. You couldn't ask for a better, more friendly dog, or a dog that's any larger. He weighs in at 200 pounds, is great with the kids/grandkids, and the animals. He walks among them and they totally ignore him.
However, if any animal makes an unusual or distress sound, he turns into Kujo...
Best livestock protection that money can buy.
Big waste of money and time unless you plan to go into the goat business at a later date. If a dog or coyote wants in they will figure out how. Most will use a hole under a fence made by some other varmint. You get all warm a fussy thinking you are protected until you lose a calf. By the time you see it the damage is done.RD-Sam":2swdzbxw said:Say the cows are allowed to roam a 10 acre or 20 acre lot, how are the jackasses about staying close to the cattle. There have been calves and cows killed in the area, so I don't think I am going overboard. Loosing a 2k or a 5k cow isn't worth scrimping on fencing, I kinda hate to leave their fate to a jackass too! :lol2: Although it may not be a bad idea as added precaution.
GRUBBIE THAT IS THE UW MASCOT "STEAMBOAT"grubbie":1pqconqk said:I would follow the elevation. I set my posts, then measured up from the ground for the first board (mine is actually sucker rod) then evenly spaced from there up. My corral is 5 1/2 feet high, if I tried to keep it level, there would be some spots that were only 4 feet high.
Also, maybe this is something to consider; I used pipe and sucker rod. In order to keep the horizontals close enough together to keep cows and calves heads getting through, I would have had probably 15 rails,...a lot of sucker rod. I just went with 3 rails. One at 12 inches off the ground, the top one at 52 inches above the bottom rail, and one in the middle. I then welded those 52" by 16 foot galvanized hog panels to that. Made a great corral. I realize you are using boards but you could still staple them up there and maybe save you on some wood?? Of course you won't want to skimp on any kind of strength in a crowding area, but maybe you could use them in the main corral. Just a suggestion.