Fencing a curve along a road

[Calhoun]

I'm planning to fence along my front property line which fronts a busy 2 lane road. Their is a curve and the center of it is also the low spot in the entire fence. There is a drainage culvert that empties there onto my property.

I think I'll have 2 stretches of fence from property corners each terminating just above the low spot. The lowest area may be fence panels so they can break away if water flow is too high. That leaves one long straight stretch of fence and a short one with the curve in it.

I'm planning galvanized posts using H and/or N braces made connected with the fence bullet system. Wire will probably be high tensile mesh.

I'm not sure how to best fence the curve. Should I use multiple short straight runs or really try to curve? Maybe use fence panels? Any advice?

The attached picture shows a string where I think a fence would go. The step in post in the foreground is the terminal post location. The highway marker is above the culvert. Distance between them is about 275 feet.

 

[gman4691]

I would just follow the string line.

 

[Brute 23]

I think you got it whipped. That exactly how you do it. Fence to the low spot. Then put a water gap. Then fence the other side to then curve. Then build the "curve". If you can cut like your picture and keep it straight that is the way to go rather than a curve. A lot of people have gone to using cattle panels for things like that. Boards would look real nice also or a combo of panels and boards.

It's hard to keep barbed wire tight on short pieces like that.

 

[Rancher]

How far does the hiway rite-of-way extend into your side of field?

 

[wbvs58]

Does the survey plan have the boundary a curve?

Ken

 

[cowman82]

if water flows through the low spot i'd put a brace on each side of it and weld a 6 bar fence panel in the low spot. but if not i would just pound all steel posts about 8-10' apart depending on curve and just curve it with the road.

 

[Philip-TX]

Put your H-braces perpendicular to the wire (into the pasture), vs. in line with the wire. Inside of the curve.

 

[Silver]

Put your H-braces perpendicular to the wire (into the pasture), vs. in line with the wire. Inside of the curve.

Bingo. And these braces only need to be 4' long.

 

[Lucky]

We build pipe fence along curves. Either pipe with top rail and sucker rod or pipe with top rail and high tensile fixed knot. We do this until out of the curve then continue with barb wire. Haven't found anything else that will stay tight and not pull braces over.

 

[Brute 23]

If you have long curves you don't have a choice and have to follow them. We had decent luck doing a high tensile net wire. That wire is so stiff there is not a lot of pull in it. We just ran more wood posts and kept 10' spacing. The wire was pretty much laid up against it like panels. It has held up pretty good considering.

It gets tricky depending on if it bends to you or away from you.

 

[Travlr]

I'm planning to fence along my front property line which fronts a busy 2 lane road. Their is a curve and the center of it is also the low spot in the entire fence. There is a drainage culvert that empties there onto my property.

I think I'll have 2 stretches of fence from property corners each terminating just above the low spot. The lowest area may be fence panels so they can break away if water flow is too high. That leaves one long straight stretch of fence and a short one with the curve in it.

I'm planning galvanized posts using H and/or N braces made connected with the fence bullet system. Wire will probably be high tensile mesh.

I'm not sure how to best fence the curve. Should I use multiple short straight runs or really try to curve? Maybe use fence panels? Any advice?

The attached picture shows a string where I think a fence would go. The step in post in the foreground is the terminal post location. The highway marker is above the culvert. Distance between them is about 275 feet.

View attachment 51401

The trade off between any extra grass you get and the added expense/effort you have to put into the fence is how I would make any decision. If you need the additional grass enough to justify the extra, then fence the curve. If it's not that much grass, then cut off the curve with a straight fence or maybe just two straight runs and a single corner in the middle.

 

[Calhoun]

The right of way is 40 feet from the center of the road. The spring pictured is actually the ROW by my measurements. I would put the fence slightly beyond the ROW, so roughly the string line. You can't tell easily but my string makes 3-4 straight runs of @40 feet to complete the curve.

 

[Dave]

I have a lot longer curved fence to build. Or I should say someone else is going to have to build this fence. It is about 1,800 feet long. It is a curve in the river. About 2 or 3 inches of top soil and then bowling ball size river rocks. It is going to take a driver with some horse power which I don't have.

 

[GoWyo]

The right of way is 40 feet from the center of the road. The spring pictured is actually the ROW by my measurements. I would put the fence slightly beyond the ROW, so roughly the string line. You can't tell easily but my string makes 3-4 straight runs of @40 feet to complete the curve.

If you are familiar with a floating brace that may be an answer to running a curved fence. I will take a pic of a couple of mine in the morning.

 

[Brute 23]

I would definitely board that. It will look really nice, you can do 20' boards, and unless that culvert spot flows a lot more than it looks, the water will probably just go under it.

All the money and time it will take to brace it up, runs wires, etc.. you could have set post and hammered boards and been done. Nothing special needed.

 

[moses388]

All the money and time it will take to brace it up, runs wires, etc.. you could have set post and hammered boards and been done. Nothing special needed.

You make it sound so easy.
Nails get rusty and brittle. Wood rots around the nail and boards fall off over the years. Use treated posts, treated boards, galvanized lag screws and washers. Do not cement wooden posts. Wood does not last forever and people like me have to replace said posts. Please and thank you.

 

[Brute 23]

@Calhoun if you don't mind, add your general location to your profile. Location does have a bearing on what may be the best option.

 

[Brute 23]

You make it sound so easy.
Nails get rusty and brittle. Wood rots around the nail and boards fall off over the years. Use treated posts, treated boards, galvanized lag screws and washers. Do not cement wooden posts. Wood does not last forever and people like me have to replace said posts. Please and thank you.

I'm so confused

 

[Calhoun]

If I made this 1 stretch of 280 feet with one directional change of about 20 degrees in the bend; would 1 N brace to the inside be enough to act against the force of direction change? This would be a 2 3/8 inch pipe brace as would both ends.

I would Lose a few feet of ground but it seems like a good compromise between keeping every inch possible and being practical.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

One good brace in the middle perpendicular to the fence wire is plenty for a direction change.