Rafter S
Well-known member
skyhightree1":8t80umpw said:
What I know as hog wire is the net wire, about 4" x 6" and about 32" to 36" tall. Any taller than that isn't hog wire.
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What I know as hog wire is the net wire, about 4" x 6" and about 32" to 36" tall. Any taller than that isn't hog wire.
midTN_Brangusman
Well-known member
We have family in Texas and visit often and love driving the back roads and viewing all the ranches. I have a question about the fences. I have always wondered what is the purpose of the barbwire fences that have the small wood post every few feet. I have seen miles of this type of fence and it seems like a lot of unnecessary work. Maybe some of you Texans can shed some light on this for me? Thanks and God Bless!
Rafter S
Well-known member
midTN_Brangusman":1lqjbwna said:
What part of Texas have you seen this? I don't see it often here in my section, but when I do it usually has goats on the other side. A fence just about has to be water tight to hold goats.
midTN_Brangusman
Well-known member
I have family in Waco and College Station and have seen this type of fence all over, and they are cattle ranches haven't seen any goats.
Rafter S
Well-known member
midTN_Brangusman":3jyr7kqz said:
I don't know then. That isn't exactly goat country, though there are more around here than there were years ago. I thought maybe you were seeing that farther west.
fenceman
Well-known member
midTN_Brangusman":2kf00zqu said:
Cedar stays. Very common in Texas. Their not a waste of time believe me. They stiffen the fence and keep wires from being pushed down pulled up or spread apart. You can put them in a old loose fence and make it pretty good. Put em in a new tight fence and makes it badazz tight. Way better than wire stays and in west central Texas you can usually just turn around and cut em for free. There's places all over were you can sell them or buy em.
Cedar stays in a water gap is
Gunner
Well-known member
Fenceman, how do you use to tie your cedar stays to the fence. Do you have a tool like they use to tie rebar in concrete? My son in law put cedar stays in his fence about 5 years ago. Used an air staple gun and staples that had some kind of coating on them to keep them from pulling out. So far so good. It sure sped up the installation process.
fenceman
Well-known member
We used 14 gauge wire doubled and twisted with pliers. Yes very similar to tying rebar. I have a air stapler and have thought of trying it. I don't know that it would be accepted by my customers.Gunner":2llrpaz7 said:
Not a stay, but this is how we tie them.
midTN_Brangusman
Well-known member
I can see how that would help, thanks fence man!
fenceman
Well-known member
Saddling pipe with a bandsaw, as promised.Saddling pipe with a bandsaw: http://youtu.be/Lm1fovgraI4
BC
Well-known member
Dang. That was slick!!! THANKS, Fencemanfenceman":1c2m0cfk said:
D2Cat
Well-known member
fenceman, why is this true? "Way better than wire stays..." Cost? Availability?
fenceman
Well-known member
Had to think about this answer for a while. Honestly " way better" is probably a exaggeration . As Philip mentioned wire stays get bent and hold wires out of place. I took this on my place last night. Not a problem for cattle, but definite horse trap. They often get bent holding the top wire down.D2Cat":ohl4sb5p said:
Any stay makes a fence better. I just prefer cedar. It stiffen the fence considerably and makes it more visible to deer and horses.
Ok
Philip-TX":ohl4sb5p said:fenceman":ohl4sb5p said:
...^^yep..... and the angles:
Good info Philip thanks for sharing.
I 've found the bandsaw to be the easiest except for a hydraulic notcher. I've got this vision of a 20 foot lowboy with a pipe rack , chopsaw , welder and a electric motor driven hydraulic notcher. Maybe Some day I'll get time to build it.
BigYoung
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Thanks Fenceman. Another good video, you make it look easy.
saltbranch
Well-known member
Fenceman, how deep do you put the H brace's? Do you use the 45 degree kick on all or just long pulls? Do you see any problems using clean 2-7/8" pipe for the H braces? IS there a certain width you build the H braces, one size fits all?
In a real sandy soil, like beach sand--how deep do you think to go for the H braces? Use concrete to the top and dome it?
I enjoy the vids and appreciate the time taken to do it. I have 2 water gaps, soon to be 3 that I will be dealing with. IF you have anything related to that please share. I am of the opinion to put in hardcore post and then go with a breakaway wire setup. Right after a flood go back in string up new wire.
thank you
In a real sandy soil, like beach sand--how deep do you think to go for the H braces? Use concrete to the top and dome it?
I enjoy the vids and appreciate the time taken to do it. I have 2 water gaps, soon to be 3 that I will be dealing with. IF you have anything related to that please share. I am of the opinion to put in hardcore post and then go with a breakaway wire setup. Right after a flood go back in string up new wire.
thank you
saltbranch
Well-known member
D2Cat":220go8lp said:
Fenceman or anyone else...I wonder if Mesquite stays would work long term too? The cedar stays, are they cut 1-2" diameter? I got mesquite posts in ground from when I was kid getting in grandpa's way and I am 47 now...time flies.
I wonder if Weesatch would hold up very long? I plenty of that invasive, brutal stuff moving in.
fenceman
Well-known member
Saltbranch I use a diagonal brace on all braces. On a short stretch may use one post and a diagonal . Nothing wrong with 27/8 pipe.
I space brace post to be able to use 8 foot pipe for the bracing. This is simply because I buy pipe in 24 foot sticks. The sand I'm used to actually seems to Hold a post better than clay. Don't scrimp on depth. Go as deep as you think you need then go another foot. We use 9 foot for post allows me to get 4 to 41/2 foot deep. The stubby post as deep as you can stand.Driving post fenceman: http://youtu.be/ECI7eRAT8PQ
For stays I'd say if you got it use it. 1 to 3 inches.
The biggest deal with water gaps is to know your creek. If you know you can't stop it use something sacrificial and easy to repair.
There's a million ways to do em.
I'll gather up some water gap photos. And post them with my opinions on what to use where.
Gimme a couple of days.
I space brace post to be able to use 8 foot pipe for the bracing. This is simply because I buy pipe in 24 foot sticks. The sand I'm used to actually seems to Hold a post better than clay. Don't scrimp on depth. Go as deep as you think you need then go another foot. We use 9 foot for post allows me to get 4 to 41/2 foot deep. The stubby post as deep as you can stand.Driving post fenceman: http://youtu.be/ECI7eRAT8PQ
For stays I'd say if you got it use it. 1 to 3 inches.
The biggest deal with water gaps is to know your creek. If you know you can't stop it use something sacrificial and easy to repair.
There's a million ways to do em.
I'll gather up some water gap photos. And post them with my opinions on what to use where.
Gimme a couple of days.
saltbranch
Well-known member
Thank you for the info.
Our creek/river can go from 1' deep where we cross to 30' deep pretty fast pending rain amounts. May do it twice a year and may not flood for 5 plus years. Just never know what the weather will do. I have even seen deer caught in the trees before. River bottom full of brush,trees, dead fall etc. Thats my reasoning for throw away fence
Our creek/river can go from 1' deep where we cross to 30' deep pretty fast pending rain amounts. May do it twice a year and may not flood for 5 plus years. Just never know what the weather will do. I have even seen deer caught in the trees before. River bottom full of brush,trees, dead fall etc. Thats my reasoning for throw away fence
