fence questions...

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I'm closer to Texas than Canada and still had a few wires snap. Fence was built in 100+ degree August weather. The fencer is well known for a tight fence. First bitter cold snap the following winter (single digits) popped a few wires. All but one was directly beneath a staple, so probably had compromised the wire.
That can happen. I don't mind having to go back and fix a broke wire from time to time. It means my men are doing it right .as long as it's not a kink . and I can tell the difference. it's much better than the alternative.
 
You both are instigators....while i'm still trying to figure out how two bulls on either side of the fence fighting inbetween "stay-stuff" square fencing wrap is going to keep the barb-wire nice and tight. Does it have longer barbs then the fencing wire? I'm confused..."Stay-stuff" sounds like a feed not a fencing solution.
Who's instigateing. I thought we were having a good conversation. I'm looking forward to seeing more of 50/50s progress on his fence.
Btw I've decided to save some money by doing my own electrical engineering.
I'm going to start small by building a motion sensing lamp. I think it's pretty good.so far. What do you think.

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. . . I'm not a fan of the barbed wire they used. Low carbon and it got loose everywhere and sagged after a couple of years. Both my B-I-Ls refused to use gaucho type HT barbed wire.

I like Gaucho wire for new fences. It stays tight for decades if the corners are good. I buy the four barb. It's been quite a while since I bought any, but at that time it cost $1.00 per roll more than the two barb.

It is a good thing it is open range here. Most of our fences were built by Noah before he went into the boat building business. There is no such thing as tight wire and most of the splices have splices in them. A lot of them made with juniper posts. 80-90 years ago there weren't any fences. Cattle were all branded and when they came out of the hills they were sorted by owner. We aren't too far from that today.

My great-uncle and aunt moved to town in 1969. We moved onto their place. My father bought roughly 22 acres, which was all he could afford, and he sold the rest to someone else. He told me once that back when he farmed watermelons they'd use just about anything for fence posts around the watermelon fields since the land would get too poor to grow watermelons after just a few years. They're let that go back to pasture and fence off another patch. He pointed out a large sycamore tree and told me it started out as a fence post. He had cut it green and used it right away, and the weather stayed wet enough that it sprouted roots and grew.

That tree is still there. I doubt if I could reach around it.

My son tells the new hires to pull barbwire until it breaks and then says next time one click less. While that's kinda a joke it's really not that far from being right. You get to where you can tell by the wieght on the handle of the jack or feeling like wire . And you should be breaking a wire from time to time. If you take out all the stretch, it won't loosen.

Disclaimer..I would imagine this would be poor advice in the frozen north.
Although I had a colleague in Indiana who agrees. Our extended temps only have about a 75 degrees variation. Yours is much greater. That's gonna make a difference.

Back about 35 years ago I was helping a guy build fence who didn't think he could get the wire tight enough with one of the ratchet type fence stretchers, so he used a come-a-long. I was walking along and stapling a wire to the post and hit the staple one time too many. The wire broke at the staple and ripped my shirt wide open without putting a scratch on me. It's a wonder it didn't gut me.
 
I like Gaucho wire for new fences. It stays tight for decades if the corners are good. I buy the four barb. It's been quite a while since I bought any, but at that time it cost $1.00 per roll more than the two barb.



My great-uncle and aunt moved to town in 1969. We moved onto their place. My father bought roughly 22 acres, which was all he could afford, and he sold the rest to someone else. He told me once that back when he farmed watermelons they'd use just about anything for fence posts around the watermelon fields since the land would get too poor to grow watermelons after just a few years. They're let that go back to pasture and fence off another patch. He pointed out a large sycamore tree and told me it started out as a fence post. He had cut it green and used it right away, and the weather stayed wet enough that it sprouted roots and grew.

That tree is still there. I doubt if I could reach around it.



Back about 35 years ago I was helping a guy build fence who didn't think he could get the wire tight enough with one of the ratchet type fence stretchers, so he used a come-a-long. I was walking along and stapling a wire to the post and hit the staple one time too many. The wire broke at the staple and ripped my shirt wide open without putting a scratch on me. It's a wonder it didn't gut me.
A fella needs to look out for himself. I usually look both ways when I cross the street as well.
 
When your building a barb wire fence is there actually any reason to drive the staple in totally. If left slightly loose you can tighten a long pull from a single spot if needed.
I don't think I have ever seen 2 barb sold here.
 
I'm looking forward to seeing more of 50/50s progress on his fence.
I'm trying to buy a property down the road from there that will need to be fenced. If you want an adventure in my jerry-rigging, just wait and see that if the deal goes through. We'll see how many trees become fenceposts, I don't feel bad about killing pines (least favorite tree).
 
When your building a barb wire fence is there actually any reason to drive the staple in totally. If left slightly loose you can tighten a long pull from a single spot if needed.
I don't think I have ever seen 2 barb sold here.
The main reason to not drive a staple all the way home is avoid damage to the wire. The ability to float is a plus. Staples should never be driven home.
 
My son tells the new hires to pull barbwire until it breaks and then says next time one click less. While that's kinda a joke it's really not that far from being right. You get to where you can tell by the wieght on the handle of the jack or feeling like wire . And you should be breaking a wire from time to time. If you take out all the stretch, it won't loosen.

Disclaimer..I would imagine this would be poor advice in the frozen north.
Although I had a colleague in Indiana who agrees. Our extended temps only have about a 75 degrees variation. Yours is much greater. That's gonna make a difference.
I've thought about putting a spring in as a permanent tensioner. Something stiff enough that it would be difficult to stretch and would maintain tension over about six inches of stretch. But I've never seen anyone try it.
 
I've thought about putting a spring in as a permanent tensioner. Something stiff enough that it would be difficult to stretch and would maintain tension over about six inches of stretch. But I've never seen anyone try it.
We use springs on pipe and cable fence. Long runs . We put expansion joints in as well.
 
I've thought about putting a spring in as a permanent tensioner. Something stiff enough that it would be difficult to stretch and would maintain tension over about six inches of stretch. But I've never seen anyone try it.
@Silver
This is a idea.
If one was to pull bw until it broke. The splice it together using a heavy garage door type spring. And restrech . I would think it would remain tight and allow give in subfreezing conditions. You need to break it though or the wire would get slack.
 
The splice it together using a heavy garage door type spring.
Not sure that type spring would work very well.
They are long and relatively heavy and even collapsed where the coils touch, they sag. Stretched to the max, they sag as well due to their own weight, or getting stretched out so much they either break or you end up with a 'sprung spring' that has lost it springiness if you know what I mean. I think a shorter stouter spring might work better. a real heavy duty trampoline spring maybe.

you would have to run some kind of wire inside the spring too, in case it does break.
 
Not sure that type spring would work very well.
They are long and relatively heavy and even collapsed where the coils touch, they sag. Stretched to the max, they sag as well due to their own weight, or getting stretched out so much they either break or you end up with a 'sprung spring' that has lost it springiness if you know what I mean. I think a shorter stouter spring might work better. a real heavy duty trampoline spring maybe.

you would have to run some kind of wire inside the spring too, in case it does break.
Probably the springs marketed for cable fence. I just used the term garage door TYPE. As most people aren't familiar with fence springs. Similar to the type used on a chisel. My apologies for not being exact.
I don't understand running a wire through it. What would that do?
 
This is what is used on cable fence. I think it would work. I see no need for a wire ran through it.View attachment 23328
When I see the springs I'm thinking they might be good to use on the cables I'm installing as part of a water gap project. Maybe give it some "cushion" in high water. Do you install at each cable end terminus or just one end?
 

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