Fence posts

[nycowgirl]

Most of my fence is post and high tensile. I'm setting up a new pasture in a field and I don't want to go to the big expense of wooden pressure treated posts and high tensile.

I was considering doing those 4' green "T" posts for my corners and using either those plastic step in posts with the metal rod on the end and the 8 built in places to slide in fence tape, OR fiberglass rods. I have used both with my horses and I am wondering if there is a preference for cattle and the durability of each type?

Also, I was going to use white fence tape at the top and a single strand of 17 guage electric wire about mid way down. By the way, this will be about an 8 acre field and will contain some woods (the hedge row between my fields).

Opinions, please!

Thanks,
Amy

 

[flaboy+]

My opinion is, it really depends on your cattle. If they are not prone to escape it should work. However I think the big green metal T posts are 6 1/2 feet not 4.

I have set some wooden posts a long ways apart and just strung a couple strands of barbed wire and then set the electric just inside that. I like redundancy just incase something happens to the electric one.

Calves might be another issue. They can go through a 5 strand barbed wire fence like a deer. Keep that in mind. ;-)

 

[Saltydawg]

My neighbor runs a similar type fencing....he gets calls from just about everyone in the area multiple times a year cause his cows are out :shock: .

 

[ALACOWMAN]

the t post wont work for corners unless you use more than one with the bracket to make braces. and with that much exspence you can buy one treated post and concrete it in for the corners...... with one t every thing would look fine till you started pulling wire then shes coming down like dominos

 

[backhoeboogie]

I'm with you CowMan. T-Posts are good for line posts and they won't burn in grass/brush fires. They are too weak for corners or bracing.

They sell the 6 footers because people buy them. Its gonna have to be atleast 6 foot 6 inches if they want my nickels. You can drive those until the spades are sunk and have enough post left to hold your fence.

Never use wood unless you want to be burned. Once you have been burned out, you'll learn the hard way like I did.

 

[Bobg]

For interior fences I use steel T posts for my corners with connectors. I then use 1/2 inch rebar and weld a sickle section on it to keep it from turning. When I divide my pasture up into smaller sections I just run one wire, never had any problems.

Bobg

 

[jkwilson]

Unless you are in a "deer-free" zone, deer will take it down. The white tape only lasts a few years. Do it right. You can go 100' between posts on high tensile, and you won't have to worry about those 2am calls from the sheriff's department that your cattle are out.

 

[backhoeboogie]

Its also a matter of finding your neighbor's cows getting sweet with your bull or vice versa. I've got a really nice bull with my cows and then there are other's herds on three sides of me. Its not difficult to catch those cows across the fence winking at my bull - and - they smell awful sweet to him too. When he smells a cow he likes, he gets all frustrated with my cows, runs around kicking up dust and such. The neighbor behind me likes it when my bull gets over the fence. I often wonder if he doesn't open gates. He never sends him home.

Anyway, I have had neighbors cows visit, in addition to having my bull get out in neighbor's pastures.

I once brought a beautiful cow home and she stayed in the pasture atleast 2 minutes before she decided the grass was greener on the other side. She eventually found herself right back at the auction and I don't think any fence would have held her.

Then there are the ferral hogs that tear through cow panels and bite electric fence in half. They'll run dead into the middle of a fence until the posts break or else the net wire gives. They can take T-Posts into U and S shapes.

 

[Texas PaPaw]

My preferrence for line post for the situation you describe is the 3/8" fiberglass rods with the spring clips to hold the wire. Unless you are planning on moving this fence later, I would suggest 14 ga steel wire for both wires. The 14 ga will be stronger and more visible than 17 ga. More durable than polytape. Two wires are usually adequate interior fence for cow/calves. If this is interior fencing, I would use the easier to handle soft farmstore wire instead of high tensile. For corners, I would suggest 6 ft steel t post driven at least 2 ft in the ground. for additional support you can make an angle brace using another t post driven at a 45 degree angle. To connect the verticle post and the angled post use a 1ft piece of 3/4 conduit bent in the middle to a 45 degree angle. Use 4 hose clamps (2 per post) to attach the conduit to the 2 posts. I've actually seen the 2 posts just wired together. Not as strong or neat as conduit/clamps.

I've heard that 1" or larger fiberglass makes good corners for this type of fence.

JMO

Regards

Brock

 

[nycowgirl]

Thanks for all the good replies. I definitely have some more to consider as I price this out. I sure don't EVER want to chase cows as my property borders a state land preserve with a lot of wetlands. I'm sure if they got out the night time illegal hunters would get them first.
Amy

 

[Jeanne - Simme Valley]

Just finally read this thread.
First, you do not want to dig & set your post in concrete. Here in NY it won't stay for more than a few years. The ground "pushes" it out. Flat bottomed wood post - DRIVEN - is the best - like what they probably (hopefully) did with your hi-tensile fence.
The deer will leave your fence alone after the first couple of days (once they figure out it's there) BUT, when it's deer hunting season - fence will be GONE.
Hi-Tensile is absolutely the cheapest, long lasting fence you can put up. If you hired someone to come in & pound your corner posts (3 to a corner for bracing). You can put up the fence yourself. If you already have hi-tensile, you need to have the tools to repair it, so get the proper tools & go for it.
I use polywire fencing all the time - but it's for INTERNAL fencing. I have 3 strand hi-tensile for perimeters & 4 strand for holding lots. every thing inside is generally 1 strand hi-tensile for main divisions & polywire for temp divisions. A 6' steel posts works fine for the 1-strand hi-tensile if you don't tighten up real tite - for straight short runs.

 

[nycowgirl]

Thanks for all the great posts! (no pun intended) :lol: . I was hoping to hear that I could "cheap out" and have my cows stay in something cheaper. I have 3 strand high tensile for the horses and have added a bottom hot wire. In a new field I'm going to fence I was considering options other than high tensile. We have a heavy deer population due to the state land. I didn't consider they would trash a fence that is just electric as I've had the high tensile for the 11 years I've had my place and the deer have not damaged it. I guess I'll stick to the high tensile for perimiter fencing, and use the fiberglass for interior divisions.

Thanks!
Amy

 

[Jeanne - Simme Valley]

Well you answered your own question, since you have had no problems with HT for 11 years.
3 strand pirameter is all you need. Holds our cattle & calves in with no problem. Polywire works well interior.
When it's deer season, I will find my single strand ht laying on the ground, because they hit it so hard, they'll pull all the insulators off the posts. Poly would be loonngg gone.