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Drought and electric fence
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<blockquote data-quote="Lee VanRoss" data-source="post: 1767718" data-attributes="member: 40072"><p>We'll fix it. Think joules (8-12) not volts Before we get to that.... I do not know how much area you cover or how many but from </p><p>reading your posts 3 ground rods should be sufficient. If you do not have 3 with a depth of at least 5-6' about 5' apart consider it,</p><p>The ground wire and the hot wire can be different but you can't mix them within their purpose. <em> Hotwire cannot be of variable material,</em></p><p><em>ie don;t mix copper and steel.. </em>If you can fence using 110 volt do it. (Leave the solar energy to JB) Just remember if you are using</p><p>steel posts the insulators will need to be checked more often. A cracked insulator my look functional at a glance and actually work with</p><p>no dew or rain involved. (It took me years but I finally went to 5' x 1/2" fiber glass) for inside the boundary fencing. In your situation </p><p>I would inspect every insulator. I like to have the energizer under cover and the ground rods in a place that is prone to receiving</p><p>moisture. (you may need to wet the ground around the ground rods) In my opinion it is best not to Scotch on the posts by placing them</p><p>too far apart. If you have read my posts you know I am dead set on NEVER walking an animal over a wire, hot or not! I doubt if</p><p>that act can ever be unlearned. I like Brute or Stafix energizers but use what work for you.</p><p>The fly in the ointment here may be that you are continually introducing new stock to the system where in my case everything</p><p>is born here except for bulls and they are 'educated' before being turned out.</p><p>My thought on the subject is, if what you have been doing is not working it will require a different methodology to get a different</p><p>result. Mostly I envy the time you spend at the auction and commend you on your ability to make it interesting for us.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lee VanRoss, post: 1767718, member: 40072"] We'll fix it. Think joules (8-12) not volts Before we get to that.... I do not know how much area you cover or how many but from reading your posts 3 ground rods should be sufficient. If you do not have 3 with a depth of at least 5-6' about 5' apart consider it, The ground wire and the hot wire can be different but you can't mix them within their purpose. [I] Hotwire cannot be of variable material, ie don;t mix copper and steel.. [/I]If you can fence using 110 volt do it. (Leave the solar energy to JB) Just remember if you are using steel posts the insulators will need to be checked more often. A cracked insulator my look functional at a glance and actually work with no dew or rain involved. (It took me years but I finally went to 5' x 1/2" fiber glass) for inside the boundary fencing. In your situation I would inspect every insulator. I like to have the energizer under cover and the ground rods in a place that is prone to receiving moisture. (you may need to wet the ground around the ground rods) In my opinion it is best not to Scotch on the posts by placing them too far apart. If you have read my posts you know I am dead set on NEVER walking an animal over a wire, hot or not! I doubt if that act can ever be unlearned. I like Brute or Stafix energizers but use what work for you. The fly in the ointment here may be that you are continually introducing new stock to the system where in my case everything is born here except for bulls and they are 'educated' before being turned out. My thought on the subject is, if what you have been doing is not working it will require a different methodology to get a different result. Mostly I envy the time you spend at the auction and commend you on your ability to make it interesting for us. [/QUOTE]
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