Diesel Tractor Starting Tips ?

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Stocker Steve

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Bought a MM 670 for the price of the Firestones. Tractor runs good with tons of torque and no exhaust smoke, but it is a hard starter. Usually requires some ether, and then runs really rough for a couple minutes. Any tips on how to correct this? Injectors?
 
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Does it have an inline block heater? Try plugging it in and warming it up first. Is it getting fuel right away? Try priming the fuel pump. Does it have a spot to put an either can or are you just spraying into the breather? Those old tractors knock pretty bad if there cold and get loaded up.
 
Some of it is just nature of the beast, those old tractors just didn't start that well, it's why gas tractors were still common at the time. They would start reliably for winter chores.

If you have the tooling, check the injection pump timing. That can make a huge difference.

Injectors may help, but may not.

Best thing to do IMO is just plug them in. Saves a lot of hassle. If that's a tractor you use regularly, get a timer set up so it runs for an hour or two before you need it.

I've heard about some guys rigging up an intake heater from a Cummins. Would probably help.
 
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I am spraying ether into the air intake.

No block heater currently. Sounds like a practical approach. How do you handle some vintage tractors that do not have a port in the block for circulation?

How does injection pump timing get off?
 
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I am spraying ether into the air intake.

No block heater currently. Sounds like a practical approach. How do you handle some vintage tractors that do not have a port in the block for circulation?

How does injection pump timing get off?

There could be/ should be some pipe plugs in the block that could be replaced with hose barbs. If not talk to a local mechanic, I think you could up "T's" in the upper and lower radiator hoses. But I've never done that.

Does it have glow plugs? Oliver did, but I'm not sure when they acquired MM. 670's night have been just before the merge.
 
I have used the magnetic block heaters in the past and it made a world of difference starting my old diesel tractors
 
I am spraying ether into the air intake.

No block heater currently. Sounds like a practical approach. How do you handle some vintage tractors that do not have a port in the block for circulation?

How does injection pump timing get off?

Pump timing should never change, but someone may have messed with it in the past.

Usually you can knock a core plug out and put your block heater in there. There are some made to go in the radiator hoses, but a core plug heater is far better.
 
I bought a remote starter button that attaches to the starter terminals. Very handy when using either. My tractors have the air cleaner in the front. With the remote starter I can stand at the front and just whiff the either in small bursts and not over load the cylinders and get the knocking that goes along with it. CAUTION make sure the tractor is out of gear.
 
Pump timing should never change, but someone may have messed with it in the past.

Usually you can knock a core plug out and put your block heater in there. There are some made to go in the radiator hoses, but a core plug heater is far better.
Some of those old tractors don't have frost plugs. We have a JD 4010 and a JD 4020 nether one does. The 4020 has an external heater. Once the grain bins get filled the 4010 gets parked until spring.
 
it's probably going to be hard to start at the best of times, but getting the injectors tested and the pressures reset could help a lot
I have an old Ford County, and I welded a bung into the intake piping between the manifold and filter, just the size of the tip of my heat gun, I put the heat gun in there on medium heat for 5 minutes or so, then on high when I crank it over.. down to 0F it works pretty good and doesn't need ether.. you can't use both at once, but you could still warm everything, shut off/remove the heat gun, then use ether when you crank it over

There are also heaters that go in the lower rad hose like this.. would probably be the easiest to fit into your application if you can find the right one

Lastly, a heated shop is the best way!
 
A circulating tank heater will work best if you have the ports to install. Then a frost plug heater, then a lower radiator hose heater, then the magnetic heaters.

Pump timing does actually change with age. As the pump wears the timing has a tendency to retard slightly.

Starting and running rough can also be a sign of air intrusion in the fuel lines.
 
I tried one of those magnetic heaters on the transmission of our Maxxum 110. It will always start but you have to wait 10-15 minutes before it will steer or move.

It pretty much amounted to a fart in the wind, but it was only like 500 watts. I ended up getting the cold weather kit from Case, which uses a heating element that goes into one of the transmission drains. Works much better.
 
Also make sure the starter and battery are in good condition, might try to find a starter that turns the engine faster.
 

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