concrete waterer

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danl

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After chopping ice for a few days and worrying about calves falling through. I'm thinking about trying to put in another concrete waterer.

I put one in when I built my largest pond and it never freezes up.

But I have some weaned calves in another field and the only water is from an older pond. I was wondering if any one had ever tried punching a pipe thru a pond levee and installing a freeze proof water that way, also I could keep them out of it in the summer.
I thought about buying a well point and pounding it thru like I was driving a well, but it might be hard horizontaly.

Dan
 
Here's the deal with pushing/driving a pipe through a dam: You will have to build some sort of anti-seep collar around the pipe very close to the inlet side. It doesn;t have to be anything real elaborate, but you gotta have one or you'll always have seepage and eventually a real leak around the pipe. Wanna see the shirt?
 
"Wanna see the shirt", Does that mean "been there done that"?


Now I got to figure out how to put a collar on it. starting to sound like a spring project.
 
danl":3aqotuld said:
"Wanna see the shirt", Does that mean "been there done that"?


Now I got to figure out how to put a collar on it. starting to sound like a spring project.

I set one up with a siphon over the top of the dam, worked pretty good until it froze. To fix the seep problem I ended up draining the pond and installing the collar.
 
danl":3pgz4c5x said:
"Wanna see the shirt", Does that mean "been there done that"?


Now I got to figure out how to put a collar on it. starting to sound like a spring project.
When I had my const business I put a few pipes in pond dams we would pump the pond down and use a pnuematic mole and and tehn shove a pipe thru then we would dig into the dam about a 3 ft x3ft and into the dam about a ft and pack it full of betonite around the pipe and then it would swell when it got wet and seal the dam fly ash works also but it needs to be incorporated with clay
 
There is a easier a way than punching a hole threw the dam. Soil conservation should be able to help you out. You can take a backhoe and start at the edge of the water and start a put a peice of pipe with a valve on it in the ditch backfill the ditch back to the waters edge. Then you can lay your pipe on to your tank. go back open your valve and backfill the ditch the rest of the way.
 
Red Bull Breeder":pkdlvfd6 said:
There is a easier a way than punching a hole threw the dam. Soil conservation should be able to help you out. You can take a backhoe and start at the edge of the water and start a put a peice of pipe with a valve on it in the ditch back fill the ditch back to the waters edge. Then you can lay your pipe on to your tank. go back open your valve and back fill the ditch the rest of the way.
I like that idea.I don,t like punching through a dam. Reminds me of the litle dutch boy with his finger in the dike. If there is a problem it could turn into a major problem, like take out your dam.
I would add the bentonite as someone else suggested. You can just never get the soil compacted the way it was before.
 
For the antiseep color I cut a hole in the cover of a 5 gallon bucket lid that was a tight fit over the pipe. Dug a trench that was wider and deeper the nthe lid, laid in the pipe then filled the trench with powdered bentonight then filled over the top eith the clay from the dam. In the pond I elboed the pipe up about 2 feet so as silt builds in the pond it wouldn;t close off the pipe abd I put a 1/4 inch mesh screen cap over the end. Then I too a 4inch diameter section of leachline pipe and build a riser that was anchored in the clay by the pipe head and uxtended itto a foot or so higher then the spillway. The riser around the pipe serves 2 purposes. 1) it keeps leaves and stuff from getting to the waterpipe and 2) it shows me where the end of the line is if I ever have to work on it. Actually there is a third use, it's marked with the depth of the pond in 4 inch increments so I can tell how deep the water in the pond is.
 

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