Clearing saplings and cedars?

[snoopdog]

Has anyone used one of those sawtooth things that bolts or welds onto the bucket? Seems like one of those might work pretty good on stuff that was too small to push and too big to hog.

 

[callmefence]

Has anyone used one of those sawtooth things that bolts or welds onto the bucket? Seems like one of those might work pretty good on stuff that was too small to push and too big to hog.

My experience is they work untill they plug up.
Which doesn't take long.

 

[callmefence]

Texas is a lot different than East Tennessee. I have nver seen a Cedar with a spreading mat of roots. Hardwoods yes not Cedars.

Your turn....

I am not saying you are wrong, but I am not in the habit of taking pics of the Cedars I have uprooted. I don't have time to crawl off my track loader and snap a pic for every tree I push over.

You don't have to get out. That's from the cab.

 

[sstterry]

Your turn....

I am not saying you are wrong, but I am not in the habit of taking pics of the Cedars I have uprooted. I don't have time to crawl off my track loader and snap a pic for every tree I push over.

You don't have to get out. That's from the cab.

I am not pushing them out right now. But I will see if I can get a pic of one that I really need to address before it falls.

 

[callmefence]

Here's some from a job we did with a skid steer and jd350 trackloader and a jd5085 tractor loader. It was just over a mile through some pretty rough country.

 

[Stocker Steve]

They rent goats up here for chemical free land clearing. Some Highlander x Longhorn cows may work also.

 

[BFE]

Cedars in a fence row are the best fence money don't buy, if they're thick enough. Now if they're small, spray them with crossbow and they're a lot easier to deal with after they die.

An eight year old tree should be able to be bush hogged over, any new growth from it will be tender and cattle should eat it.

 

[Silver]

So what would you use to clear this and still have a fence standing afterwards?

 

[JMJ Farms]

So what would you use to clear this and still have a fence standing afterwards?

Excavator. And probably a chainsaw at times.

 

[callmefence]

So what would you use to clear this and still have a fence standing afterwards?

I would use a shear. First cut would be above top wire and use push bar to fall the top across.
Second cut at ground. Mop up both sides with grapple.
There would certainly be places you might have to apply a some common sense adjustment s.

 

[Silver]

So what would you use to clear this and still have a fence standing afterwards?

I would use a shear. First cut would be above top wire and use push bar to fall the top across.
Second cut at ground. Mop up both sides with grapple.
There would certainly be places you might have to apply a some common sense adjustment s.

Did some googling for shears. Looks like they come in all sorts of configurations. I have an excavator, seems like it would be nice to find a shear to fit it and keep the tractors out of the bush, steep hills, side hills, swamps etc.
Do you have a brand or style you prefer or pictures?

 

[callmefence]

So what would you use to clear this and still have a fence standing afterwards?

I would use a shear. First cut would be above top wire and use push bar to fall the top across.
Second cut at ground. Mop up both sides with grapple.
There would certainly be places you might have to apply a some common sense adjustment s.

Did some googling for shears. Looks like they come in all sorts of configurations. I have an excavator, seems like it would be nice to find a shear to fit it and keep the tractors out of the bush, steep hills, side hills, swamps etc.
Do you have a brand or style you prefer or pictures?

Be proud to give you my thoughts on different styles, features and brands. I'll see if I can put a few paragraphs together when I get sat down this evening.

 

[BigYoung]

Fence,
I see you have a root RAKE type grapple on the JD tractor. Do you have a strong preference for that type of Rake grapple over the regular root grapple (L bottom)? If so, could you comment as to why? I don't have any experience but am about to order a grapple from Everything Attachments and graduate from loppers and a chainsaw. Any comments would likely benefit the OP also.

 

[callmefence]

Bigandyoung just made me aware I forgot a reply to silver. It was in my drafts.
Sorry



Two types of shears. Single and double cylinders. Single is cheaper and a little more bullet proof. Just fine for general clearing and rough work. Even pulling up trees or pulling post. The double blade or cylinder type cost considerable more. But has more cutting power will cut at or even below grade and will cut short stumps.
You can get fixed , manual pivot or hydraulic pivot. Manual allows for horizontal or vertical cuts. No in between. If you think you need this feature i would get hydraulic. I've personally found the pivot to be rarely needed. And it's definitely a weak link. I've seen so many that are welded up, including mine. If you think you need it be prepared to baby it .

 

[callmefence]

Fence,
I see you have a root RAKE type grapple on the JD tractor. Do you have a strong preference for that type of Rake grapple over the regular root grapple (L bottom)? If so, could you comment as to why? I don't have any experience but am about to order a grapple from Everything Attachments and graduate from loppers and a chainsaw. Any comments would likely benefit the OP also.

We've got three grapples right now. Two of the clamshell brush grapple type in the pic. And a bucket grapple with the short sides and double top jaws. The clamshell is by far the most used. Piling pushing, picking up pipe, rolls of wire or even my lunch box. It's main advantage to me over the L shaped grapple is you can open it up and roll it over forward and really get a good handful of smaller stuff. It'll pull it all together and ball it up tight. And it pushes just as good.




The clamshell is by far our most used. Piling brush, balling up old fenceline, or loading scrap in the dump trailer the guys get the clamshell Everytime. The bucket grapple is good for doing some dirt work where you need a grapple to, viseversa. It's really good for scraping pears and also burning. You can push the edges of the fire in and not leave any coals behind to run over. Do not get a "bucket" grapple with sides on the bucket. Near useless attachment.

 

[BigYoung]

Thanks Fence, I had already placed my order Friday morning for an root grapple (L style - flat bottom) with a 6 week wait time. I'm only gonna buy one in my lifetime - and based on your comments will be changing my order to a RAKE/clamshell grapple Monday morning. :clap: :clap:

 

[Silver]

Bigandyoung just made me aware I forgot a reply to silver. It was in my drafts.
Sorry



Two types of shears. Single and double cylinders. Single is cheaper and a little more bullet proof. Just fine for general clearing and rough work. Even pulling up trees or pulling post. The double blade or cylinder type cost considerable more. But has more cutting power will cut at or even below grade and will cut short stumps.
You can get fixed , manual pivot or hydraulic pivot. Manual allows for horizontal or vertical cuts. No in between. If you think you need this feature i would get hydraulic. I've personally found the pivot to be rarely needed. And it's definitely a weak link. I've seen so many that are welded up, including mine. If you think you need it be prepared to baby it .

Sounds like good advice. Thank you.

 

[Little Joe]

I'm hoping to close on this place that I was asking about in the original post within the next few weeks, been waiting on the surveyor to get out and he's been running behind due to the rains. I'll post pics of it as soon as I get it closed. I tried riding my 4 wheeler through there the other day and the briars about ate me up, you could stand on the seat of the 4 wheeler and still not see over the briars. Looks like alot of it can be bush hogged will just be a real slow go. I would've never considered the place for the price I agreed to if it didn't border my home place, but land close to my house is hard to come by and I don't ever plan on moving.

 

[D2Cat]

If you have brush, saplings, wild berries and briars I try a Piranna toothbar. They work on small stuff real quick and easy.

 

[greybeard]

I'm hoping to close on this place that I was asking about in the original post within the next few weeks, been waiting on the surveyor to get out and he's been running behind due to the rains. I'll post pics of it as soon as I get it closed. I tried riding my 4 wheeler through there the other day and the briars about ate me up, you could stand on the seat of the 4 wheeler and still not see over the briars. Looks like alot of it can be bush hogged will just be a real slow go. I would've never considered the place for the price I agreed to if it didn't border my home place, but land close to my house is hard to come by and I don't ever plan on moving.

I did lots of work on mine with a bush hog. It works but is really hard on machine and operator and you are right...it will be slow, and noisy. If you go that route, don't go cheap. Drivelines and clutches and gearboxes Oh My!