Chainsaws-Husky or Stihl?

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I have run Stihl saws for several years like the balance of them better than Husky. I don't need a grinder to sharpen a saw with. Have cut timber all my life nothin will get you killed faster than to little a saw or a dull one. I think some of you boys better take a tape measure and check some stumps. Them minnie macks you are using to cut trees that are two feet across is asking for trouble.
 
Red Bull Breeder":2yfsmukp said:
I think some of you boys better take a tape measure and check some stumps. Them minnie macks you are using to cut trees that are two feet across is asking for trouble.

Felling technique makes a world of difference in what size saw you need.
 
dun":db70czkf said:
Red Bull Breeder":db70czkf said:
I think some of you boys better take a tape measure and check some stumps. Them minnie macks you are using to cut trees that are two feet across is asking for trouble.

Felling technique makes a world of difference in what size saw you need.

Right on. Too much bar for someone not using them full time is asking for trouble, especially if you have only one saw. I don't need more than 18 but I like 18 better than 16 just because I don't need to bend as much to limb them out.
 
ALX.":19q28klo said:
I don't need more than 18 but I like 18 better than 16 just because I don't need to bend as much to limb them out.

That's the reason I use the longer bar for bucking.
 
I know that you only asked about Husky or stihl.....but let me recommend Makita. They are the German made Sachs-Dolmar saws with a Makita label on them. Hands down the best saw I have ever owned. I have a DCS 540 with a 20 inch bar. The only problem is the chains I got with it sure seem to stretch alot. I will replace them with Oregon chains when it comes time.

Powerwise it is amazing. I think it has the lightest power to weight ration as well. It is almost 4 years old now and never a problem. I also run AMSOIL 100:1 synthtic oil mixed at about 50:1. The saw sees hard used, mainly clearing cedar trees. .. and eats lots of dirt. Cant say enough about it.

I found it online for about $320 delivered, came with an extra chain too.

Not trying to hijack your post, just trying to help.

Jay
 
We have all Stihls here. I got myself a smaller model for icestorm work, a year or so ago, and it is real easy for me to use and not so heavy as my husbands is. Works real good, and is easy to sharpen and maintain.

There are several dealers in our area so parts are no problem.

GMN
 
My family have always bought Stihl chainsaws we have a small stihl and a sthil farm boss that get's any tree off the fence or any tree you need down. We use to buy the cheap poulan saws from lowes and i think we still have some still setting in the woods somewhere :lol: I would go with stihl's because that's what im used to handling but i never used a husky :eek:
 
I have had and have both. The Huskies are not my thing. Actually I don't like any of their equipment. Maybe its just me. The Stihls are good saws, but I can't justify them when i find the cheap Poulans do a great job also. With my employees, it has a certain life span no matter what and It might as well be $200 cheaper.
 
Back in the late 60's in ohio I worked in the logging.We had McCullough and homlite. Then they came out with the stihl.Man what a saw. It would cut circles around the other two,but viberated so bad you had to carry a pocket full of extra bolts.That improved in about the first 2 yrs and they were the only saw I would have up until about 3 yra ago. I bought an echo. I use it quite often and have had no problem.
Easy start and light weight and cuts great.
The trick to keeping a sharp chain is to watch the cutting coming out of the tree. I f that chain aint pulling cuttings out about 1/4 to 1/2 in long you need to file it.Takes only about 15min to touch it up if you do it right when it needs it. If you dont you are just ruining a chain,blade and motor.
When I got to the woods with a saw I have a file in my back pocket.
A chain kept sharp will last a lot longer than a dull one.
Trying to fall a tree with a dull chain is inviting sudden death.

Cal
 
I am partial to Stihl saws. I started out with an old O-29, which I inherited from my Papaw ~ I miss that saw and the man that taught me to use it. I currently own a 290 Farm boss and a 460 magnum, each filling a niche in "life on the farm". I also own a Stihl telescoping pole saw and an FS-250 brush cutter with a blade on it, these two get worked more than the regular saws. I've operated several Huskys and they appear to be good saws, but they aren't a Stihl.
 
Stihl ,got an 044 for the big jobs got an 038 with 24inch bar for general use.Bought the 038 in 1982,it works fine after many years of hard use.It takes a lickin and keeps on tickin.
 
After being in the tree business for a few years I have accumalated several saws. They are all stihls. The high end huskys are good saws albeit very loud no dealer support in most areas. The Stihls on the other hand have a great dealer network, and if the dealer doesn't do you right just contact the distributor and they will make it right. Keep in mind that when you buy a Stihl that if it has a orange handle it is a homeowner model made to compete against most retail outlet stores. If it has a white handle it is a professional model. For general limbing and small felling the 361 is nice it has the anti vibration handle. They don't make the 038 any longer so the next best thing IMHO is the 440 which replaced the 044. It will run a 24" bar fine. If you are going to cut alot of big wood for fire wood go with the bigger saw. It will make life much easier and your job will get done alot faster.

BTW chainsaw chaps are your best friend. An employee griped all the time because i make them wear chaps while cutting on the ground. One day while doing storm work he was running a 650 Magnum with a 36" bar. I heard him start yelling and screaming like a snake had just got him. He emerged from the tree with a ghostly look and some mangle chaps, but not a scratch other wise. Before you say he didn't know what he was doing he has been cutting for 3 or 4 years. Most people will tell you that they know how to use a chainsaw and have never had one kickback, but it only takes one time to ruin your life permanetly.
 
DustyH":f0q9e6pz said:
After being in the tree business for a few years I have accumalated several saws. They are all stihls. The high end huskys are good saws albeit very loud no dealer support in most areas. The Stihls on the other hand have a great dealer network, and if the dealer doesn't do you right just contact the distributor and they will make it right. Keep in mind that when you buy a Stihl that if it has a orange handle it is a homeowner model made to compete against most retail outlet stores. If it has a white handle it is a professional model. For general limbing and small felling the 361 is nice it has the anti vibration handle. They don't make the 038 any longer so the next best thing IMHO is the 440 which replaced the 044. It will run a 24" bar fine. If you are going to cut alot of big wood for fire wood go with the bigger saw. It will make life much easier and your job will get done alot faster.

BTW chainsaw chaps are your best friend. An employee griped all the time because i make them wear chaps while cutting on the ground. One day while doing storm work he was running a 650 Magnum with a 36" bar. I heard him start yelling and screaming like a snake had just got him. He emerged from the tree with a ghostly look and some mangle chaps, but not a scratch other wise. Before you say he didn't know what he was doing he has been cutting for 3 or 4 years. Most people will tell you that they know how to use a chainsaw and have never had one kickback, but it only takes one time to ruin your life permanetly.

The Stihl I bought has the safety feature which it automatically shuts down if the chain comes off, aren't the newer saws all like this?

GMN
 
have an 024 and an 031...old girls that have been in constant use over 20 yrs with me...never a problem other than the odd fuel line melt down from poor fuel.
never thought much of a Husky.
Best saw I have ever owned is a Jonserud 670 champ!will take my Jonsy 670 to my grave and out cut the devil to feed the fires of Hell.

in the end there's good and bad of every make...had a good Dodge one time,and a good Homelite...back when I was man enough to work it all day...
 
GMN":1jtekrza said:
DustyH":1jtekrza said:
After being in the tree business for a few years I have accumalated several saws. They are all stihls. The high end huskys are good saws albeit very loud no dealer support in most areas. The Stihls on the other hand have a great dealer network, and if the dealer doesn't do you right just contact the distributor and they will make it right. Keep in mind that when you buy a Stihl that if it has a orange handle it is a homeowner model made to compete against most retail outlet stores. If it has a white handle it is a professional model. For general limbing and small felling the 361 is nice it has the anti vibration handle. They don't make the 038 any longer so the next best thing IMHO is the 440 which replaced the 044. It will run a 24" bar fine. If you are going to cut alot of big wood for fire wood go with the bigger saw. It will make life much easier and your job will get done alot faster.

BTW chainsaw chaps are your best friend. An employee griped all the time because i make them wear chaps while cutting on the ground. One day while doing storm work he was running a 650 Magnum with a 36" bar. I heard him start yelling and screaming like a snake had just got him. He emerged from the tree with a ghostly look and some mangle chaps, but not a scratch other wise. Before you say he didn't know what he was doing he has been cutting for 3 or 4 years. Most people will tell you that they know how to use a chainsaw and have never had one kickback, but it only takes one time to ruin your life permanetly.

The Stihl I bought has the safety feature which it automatically shuts down if the chain comes off, aren't the newer saws all like this?

GMN

Are you refering to the chain brake? It is supposed to lock the chain down in case of kick back, but the don't always work. As far as the chain coming off, I haven't heard of a saftey for this.
 
DustyH":10f1rtnk said:
BTW chainsaw chaps are your best friend. An employee griped all the time because i make them wear chaps while cutting on the ground. One day while doing storm work he was running a 650 Magnum with a 36" bar. I heard him start yelling and screaming like a snake had just got him. He emerged from the tree with a ghostly look and some mangle chaps, but not a scratch other wise. Before you say he didn't know what he was doing he has been cutting for 3 or 4 years. Most people will tell you that they know how to use a chainsaw and have never had one kickback, but it only takes one time to ruin your life permanetly.

Don;t forget hearing and head protection along with the chaps. For bucking you can get by, maybe, without the hardhat, but you gotta have hearing protection.
 
I feel naked falling a tree without a hardhat. And chaps only protect the part that they cover. Having control of the saw at all times means you are wearing gloves that grip. When wet, leather gloves get slick. You never see timber fallers wearing leather gloves.
 
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