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Jeanne - Simme Valley
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I actually know the Messeck family. They are Simmental breeders. About 4 hours away.
Case IH 5230 Magnum
- Thread starter Jeanne - Simme Valley
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chevytaHOE5674
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First thing i would do is check/clean all ground and connectors related to the transmission (service manual with wiring diagram is useful here). If that doesnt correct it then start pressure testing per the service manual to see what's up.
For what most powershifts cost to rebuild when they fail it's worth your time to fix now before it causes a bigger issue.
For what most powershifts cost to rebuild when they fail it's worth your time to fix now before it causes a bigger issue.
hurleyjd
Well-known member
Jeanne here is a link to the case-ih online parts catalog. Open it and open the electrical and click on everything that has to do with power shift. Also open up power train and go to transmission and open everything for power shift. That way you can see how the electrical and mechanical attach and work together. Looks as if there is ground connection according to the harness that has the connections that attach to the shifting valves. Chase the ground attachment down and clean it very well and re attach. I would think that you could attach a 12 volt jumper wire to each shifting value and determine if one was bad. But check each valve one at a time to see if the are working. They look like nothing more than solenoid controlled valve. Could be removed out of the manifold and checked to see if they are activating. Attach the 12 volt jumper to each and touch the valve to the transmission to ground it out. That is the way I see it and could be wrong and could be right. There is also a tempature sensor in the transmission to monitor the oil temp.
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Jeanne - Simme Valley
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LOL - you are WAYYYY above my pay grade (and my nephews). Weather has not been drastically cold and it has been running like a charm. Expecting below zero weather on Thursday. We will feed on Wed. and might avoid the real low temps. But, until I HAVE to run it in the severe cold, I can't test my theory that it IS electrical/temp related. If/when it happens again, I plan on turning it off & restart to see if light goes out & transmission works.
But, for now - nephew looked under cab from behind and did not see anything that looked like ground wiring. Of course, this is outside in the snow! I do not have any kind of shop - or barn space big enough to get it inside.
Short of driving it to a repair shop (couple miles). I will have to deal with it for now.
You guys are really, really great to pitch in to help.
New question since there are several on here that know my tractor. What is a good RPM to be running on a regular basis, feeding bales. I generally run 1-3 at 1500 rpm - and bump into 2-3 on smooth travel areas. Seems really slow. Can I run higher rpm and be good on engine?
Nephew learned the hard way (trial & error) that he has to run higher RPM for manure spreader. Remember, nephew is city born & raised up until almost 7 years ago. He's come a long way! We were both born & raised in R.I. (but I have been country since 1969)
But, for now - nephew looked under cab from behind and did not see anything that looked like ground wiring. Of course, this is outside in the snow! I do not have any kind of shop - or barn space big enough to get it inside.
Short of driving it to a repair shop (couple miles). I will have to deal with it for now.
You guys are really, really great to pitch in to help.
New question since there are several on here that know my tractor. What is a good RPM to be running on a regular basis, feeding bales. I generally run 1-3 at 1500 rpm - and bump into 2-3 on smooth travel areas. Seems really slow. Can I run higher rpm and be good on engine?
Nephew learned the hard way (trial & error) that he has to run higher RPM for manure spreader. Remember, nephew is city born & raised up until almost 7 years ago. He's come a long way! We were both born & raised in R.I. (but I have been country since 1969)
ClodHopper37869
Well-known member
1500 rpm is a good fast idle. Run it a little faster. For pto work, use the pto tachometer, forget about the engine tach.
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Jeanne - Simme Valley
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Fast idle - lol!! No wonder I can lug it (like backing uphill with bale on front!) When I'm a good girl, I remember to drop gear to 1-2 for that situation, but if I don't, it lets me know in short time that I'm screwing up!!
Little faster, like 1700 rpm?
Little faster, like 1700 rpm?
chevytaHOE5674
Well-known member
Been a long time since I've been in a maxxum but IIRC the rated 540 pto speed is at something like 2200 rpms. Running a diesel at low RPMs and lugging them down can be worse on the engine and also things like hydraulic pumps dont develop full flow and pressure. For normal running around and loader work I would run it around 2k rpms +/- a hundred.
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Jeanne - Simme Valley
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Wow - I'm really lugging it ALL the time. Will have to change my ways.
ClodHopper37869
Well-known member
With the PS Trans you will get some funky shifts running less than 15-1600 rpms, and some times 1700 depending on load, up hill, down hill.
No idea as to your equipment but a few points:
1. I have a home built log splitter and I put a pressure gauge at the inlet to the hydraulic filter which is mounted at the inlet to the reservoir. I use the same premium THD fluid that my modern tractors require. The other day I decided to cut wood on a cool...cool in N. Texas day, and fired up the pump. Accidentally noticed that the gauge was reading like 20 psig with the Open Center hydraulic system just circulating fluid. I was letting the engine warm up before I started working it and when I got ready to start I happened to notice the pressure had dropped to single digits.....where I had expected it to be when I started the engine.
2. I recall that J20C and J20D are two different fluids and the latter is for cold temperatures. To me that translates to a lower viscosity fluid, even though they both may be multiviscosity....like 10W-30 vs 5w-20 as an example. I use J20c as a reference point when selecting premium THD fluids because it is usually listed on a label if any spec., and it covers my newer tractor's requirements even though they aren't green.
3. I recall that all premium hyd fluids are not the same viscosity at a given temperature per their published data sheets.
For a shotgun solution to your problem, you might look around at the viscosity index of your current premium fluid and check out other manufacturer's fluids for lower viscosity. Your comments tell me that your fluid is too thick and your tractor is responding adversely. For your usage, seems to me that changing fluid and filter on your current schedule, is more than adequate to ensure clean fluid. I think viscosity is biting you!
Good luck.
1. I have a home built log splitter and I put a pressure gauge at the inlet to the hydraulic filter which is mounted at the inlet to the reservoir. I use the same premium THD fluid that my modern tractors require. The other day I decided to cut wood on a cool...cool in N. Texas day, and fired up the pump. Accidentally noticed that the gauge was reading like 20 psig with the Open Center hydraulic system just circulating fluid. I was letting the engine warm up before I started working it and when I got ready to start I happened to notice the pressure had dropped to single digits.....where I had expected it to be when I started the engine.
2. I recall that J20C and J20D are two different fluids and the latter is for cold temperatures. To me that translates to a lower viscosity fluid, even though they both may be multiviscosity....like 10W-30 vs 5w-20 as an example. I use J20c as a reference point when selecting premium THD fluids because it is usually listed on a label if any spec., and it covers my newer tractor's requirements even though they aren't green.
3. I recall that all premium hyd fluids are not the same viscosity at a given temperature per their published data sheets.
For a shotgun solution to your problem, you might look around at the viscosity index of your current premium fluid and check out other manufacturer's fluids for lower viscosity. Your comments tell me that your fluid is too thick and your tractor is responding adversely. For your usage, seems to me that changing fluid and filter on your current schedule, is more than adequate to ensure clean fluid. I think viscosity is biting you!
Good luck.
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Jeanne - Simme Valley
Well-known member
Txmark - thanks for that detailed info. I can not check what we used because can is gone - but - here in NY, we deal with COLD, so always buy good quality hi-tran from a tractor dealer.
I still have not started it up in really, really cold temps again. Every winter, we watch the weather and always try to avoid the absolute worse temps. We had lows of 0F and highs of teens for two days. Today will be high near 30 and plan to feed today. Obviously, I can "avoid" bad temps for only a limited time. Low temps is our winter!!!! Reprieve - we have the next 5 days in mid 30's and lows in mid 20's. Heaven!! Heading to Rhode Island on Monday thru Thurs. Fill-in person will only have to feed on Tuesday (and HE IS a mechanic!!! His dad's shop is where I have everything worked on.) We feed every 2 or 3 days - to 6 groups.
I still have not started it up in really, really cold temps again. Every winter, we watch the weather and always try to avoid the absolute worse temps. We had lows of 0F and highs of teens for two days. Today will be high near 30 and plan to feed today. Obviously, I can "avoid" bad temps for only a limited time. Low temps is our winter!!!! Reprieve - we have the next 5 days in mid 30's and lows in mid 20's. Heaven!! Heading to Rhode Island on Monday thru Thurs. Fill-in person will only have to feed on Tuesday (and HE IS a mechanic!!! His dad's shop is where I have everything worked on.) We feed every 2 or 3 days - to 6 groups.
