Building a cultivator?

Help Support CattleToday:

Bigfoot

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 16, 2012
Messages
13,282
Reaction score
668
Location
Kentucky
I've got a spring tooth cultivator. Old as time, it's a Ferguson, not a Massey Ferguson. It started it's career with about 11 teeth. Slowly over time, I've broke cultivators. I'm down now, to it being useless.

I'd Like to take the few remaining teeth off, and weld some angle Iron cross members on it, then weld some 18" teeth from a box blade to them. I usually only use the thing to work my arena with. I drag a big heavy telephone post behind it, and it works great for that.

Number 1
Will I be happy with the performance of the box blade shanks for this job?

Number 2
Can anybody think of a better solution?
 
Bigfoot":4knux580 said:
I've got a spring tooth cultivator. Old as time, it's a Ferguson, not a Massey Ferguson. It started it's career with about 11 teeth. Slowly over time, I've broke cultivators. I'm down now, to it being useless.

I'd Like to take the few remaining teeth off, and weld some angle Iron cross members on it, then weld some 18" teeth from a box blade to them. I usually only use the thing to work my arena with. I drag a big heavy telephone post behind it, and it works great for that.

Number 1
Will I be happy with the performance of the box blade shanks for this job?

If you want the arena real soft it would work but you would need to stagger the tines front and back to eliminate the rake effect.

Number 2
Can anybody think of a better solution?

Welding them is an option but I would devise a way to bolt them on. That way you can adjust them to achieve the overall finish you desire. Since expense is not a hindrance cause of the cost of these tines I will draw you a diagram of what of they should be built to allow movement.
 
Bigfoot":35dn182s said:
This is a cut and paste, but nearly 100% like mine.
I have one just about like that, except it is also missing 90% of the teeth and springs.
Been meaning to junk it now for several years, but keep thinking I'll find some use for the angle iron frame.
I think mine is a Dearborn.
 
greybeard":4zmt6poj said:
Bigfoot":4zmt6poj said:
This is a cut and paste, but nearly 100% like mine.
I have one just about like that, except it is also missing 90% of the teeth and springs.
Been meaning to junk it now for several years, but keep thinking I'll find some use for the angle iron frame.
I think mine is a Dearborn.

I would think they are all over, but I can't find one. Not too many years ago, I gave one away because i was tired of moving it to clip grass.
 
ok , Take and weld a plate horizontal about 4" wide to the vertical shank. put holes in the plate to utilize the holes on the frame. This will allow movement of the shanks and as long as your not breaking new ground with it should not bend the frame up. Another options would be u bolts and regular cultivator shafts that go into the pork chops on standard cultivators
 
M-5":1c5gu7mv said:
http://www.agrisupply.com/stem-shank-for-a-rigid-cultivator/p/84651/?sid=asf10&eid=Easf10&utm_source=GoogleShopping&utm_medium=CSE&utm_campaign=MerchAdv&zmam=77232640&zmas=1&zmac=1&zmap=84651&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=NB_PLA_FarmMachineryPart_SO_GOOG&utm_term=shopping&utm_content=sZZNlonHt|pcrid|94778259191|pmt||pkw||pdv|c|&&gclid=COvk0OPR4NMCFYY2gQodTrgIPw

that make me wonder, if the shanks I'm missing could be replaced. I'll browse that site.
 
I don't think these little things will cover the tracks on my red belly. If they would, I'd just buy one of them.
 
M-5":12lv1v0b said:
If all your wanting to so is scratch up the arena you could get buy with 1" rebar cut to length and u bolted on

I would have thought that would be too brittle, I may have to give it a try.
 
The right size rebar, would should bolt right where the broken tines came from.
 
Bigfoot":3fnwd7md said:
The right size rebar, would should bolt right where the broken tines came from.

yes , try to keep lengths around 12" and all that would happen is they would bend some and it you bent one badly you could just replace it . 1" rebar is pretty stout.

when you cut them , cut at 45 deg and you will have a point on it .
 
M.Magis":3s0d9u2o said:
If the re-bar happens to be too brittle, grade 8 or structural bolts should work as well.

You don't want to buy many grade 8 bolts in 12" lengths . They are expensive

I made some screw in hay stabilizer prongs out of a couple a few yrs ago
 
M-5":1w7f8gae said:
M.Magis":1w7f8gae said:
If the re-bar happens to be too brittle, grade 8 or structural bolts should work as well.

You don't want to buy many grade 8 bolts in 12" lengths . They are expensive

I made some screw in hay stabilizer prongs out of a couple a few yrs ago
Good point.
 
Bigfoot":2sootgbu said:
I don't think these little things will cover the tracks on my red belly. If they would, I'd just buy one of them.
I have one of those too, except it's decades old.
Can't say I have ever used it for anything except a brush rake to break down some burn piles.
 

Latest posts

Top