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callmefence

Keyboard cowboy
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Or anyone else.

Im having a problem with my Kawasaki 650
It started when it was left on a job with the seat off( it blows off on trailer) and it got rained on. After my was soaked down with wd40 it started and ran. But intermediate it will die and no start. It will have a rolling misfire through the carb as long as your cranking it. Let it sit till tomorrow and it will start and run for a bit. But eventually quit. Won't fire on ether.
I thought if anyone would have a diagnosis flow chart on a flooded out brute. It would be you...
Thanks in advance.
Fence
 
Sorry man, not much help. The seat being off really should not have made a difference.

There are several angles to go at. Are you thinking electrical or did you see signs of water making it to the carb thru the air filter or leak of some sort?

The normal deal for a flooded bike is change all the fluids, filters, pugs, etc. That includes the gas and drain the tank. Im not 100% but the vents for the fuel tank are usually under the seat. Any chance water got in your fuel tank with the seat off?
 
Our Honda rancher will do that if it gets water on the electric connections, usually a little dielectric grease will fix it up or just a little time
 
callmefence":262xw7ty said:
Or anyone else.

Im having a problem with my Kawasaki 650
It started when it was left on a job with the seat off( it blows off on trailer) and it got rained on. After my was soaked down with wd40 it started and ran. But intermediate it will die and no start. It will have a rolling misfire through the carb as long as your cranking it. Let it sit till tomorrow and it will start and run for a bit. But eventually quit. Won't fire on ether.
I thought if anyone would have a diagnosis flow chart on a flooded out brute. It would be you...
Thanks in advance.
Fence

Remove the air cleaner from the carburetor entrance and see it it will run. Had a similar problem with a 350 prairie drove me crazy even to the point of buying a new a carburetor. Finally I removed the air cleaner and it would run like crazy. Then started at the air intakes under the front hood if you can call it a hood. Dirt daubers had built condos in these tubes to the point you was getting a little air at clamps and run enough to crank but not run at high speed.
 
callmefence":3pln9o45 said:
Or anyone else.

Im having a problem with my Kawasaki 650
It started when it was left on a job with the seat off( it blows off on trailer) and it got rained on. After my was soaked down with wd40 it started and ran. But intermediate it will die and no start. It will have a rolling misfire through the carb as long as your cranking it. Let it sit till tomorrow and it will start and run for a bit. But eventually quit. Won't fire on ether.
I thought if anyone would have a diagnosis flow chart on a flooded out brute. It would be you...
Thanks in advance.
Fence

Let us know what you come up with. I'm interested now to know what it is.
 
t
Brute 23":27radjop said:
callmefence":27radjop said:
Or anyone else.

Im having a problem with my Kawasaki 650
It started when it was left on a job with the seat off( it blows off on trailer) and it got rained on. After my was soaked down with wd40 it started and ran. But intermediate it will die and no start. It will have a rolling misfire through the carb as long as your cranking it. Let it sit till tomorrow and it will start and run for a bit. But eventually quit. Won't fire on ether.
I thought if anyone would have a diagnosis flow chart on a flooded out brute. It would be you...
Thanks in advance.
Fence

Let us know what you come up with. I'm interested now to know what it is.
tune-up took care of the misfire but its still cutting off. runs great now then dies and no fire. looks like two separate problems. I don't like chunking parts at something but it may come to that. ive got a 750 injected bruteforce I'm gonna look in the morning and see if any of the ignition parts will swap. I doubt it..... edit..checking parts on amazon it looks like ecu, coil, and crank sensor will swap
 
That's odd because usually some thing like a coil or crank sensor either works or doesn't. There is not a lot of in between.

From what your describing it sounds like a fuel pump or some thing related to fuel.

There are some safety roll over sensors and stuff on them too. My boss was having fist with a mule doing like what described and it was a safety switch going to the fuel pump acting up.

They have videos on testing crankshaft sensors and some of the other parts on youtube.

https://youtu.be/xe8zJQfIqYo
 
Brute 23":30y8ztyh said:
That's odd because usually some thing like a coil or crank sensor either works or doesn't. There is not a lot of in between.

From what your describing it sounds like a fuel pump or some thing related to fuel.

There are some safety roll over sensors and stuff on them too. My boss was having fist with a mule doing like what described and it was a safety switch going to the fuel pump acting up.

They have videos on testing crankshaft sensors and some of the other parts on youtube.

https://youtu.be/xe8zJQfIqYo
thanks again. ive confirmed no spark when it quits. I spent all day yesterday cussing this thing. imgonna wait a few days and go at it with fresh eyes.........rollover switch brings up a thought. twice weve loaded and unloaded and it on a trailer using the tractor fel. doing that seemed to trigger the no start. I'm gonna take a look there. ..thanks for your help
 
Some ecus are notorious for giving intermittent troubles. Temperature related...when they get hot, they quit. Let it cool down, it starts working again..for awhile.
 
Is the ignition switch directly exposed to rain? Lots of engines are magneto driven and once rolling stay rolling on their own. To stop the engine you have to short out a few turns of the magneto. The device for that is ground in the OFF position of the ignition switch. If you got some crud/water and crud in your switch it could intermittently connect the ground terminal to the ON wire and kill your engine.

As others have said, connector leaking somewhere but on those machines I'd expect them to be sealed pretty good.
 
The device for that is ground in the OFF position of the ignition switch. ...As others have said, connector leaking somewhere but on those machines I'd expect them to be sealed pretty good.
Yep, as far back as the '86 Honda fourtrax, that's how the ign and run switches worked too. A very simple switch, tho it's probably gotten more complicated now.
Used to just look like this:
https://postimg.cc/image/uz2k565g7/

The FourTrax I 'inherited' had a foot of water over the ign system last Sept and 7 months later, all I had to do was drain the engine and rear end oil and fuel tank, clean the plug and that sucker fired right up, so I guess everything electric IS sealed pretty good on those type things. Oh, I did have to clean the carb too.
 
I put one in my '65 Ford 3000 this spring with about 5700 hard hours (PO doings). I keep it under cover but it was time for it to go.
 

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