Barn goat?

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Boot Jack Bulls said:
Band him asap, but beware he is still able to get the job done, so to speak, with a band on for several days. Also be aware that once you whether him, you will have to be more mindful of his diet for the rest of his life. His entire nutritional intake should be balanced to ensure his ratio of phosphorus to calcium is at least 2:1, if not 4:1 to prevent urinary calculi. It can be done easily, but you need to do a bit of research to make sure your feed/forage balance correctly. If he gets UC, it will at the very least, cost some vet bills and at the very worst kill him.

As for the doe, I'd bet she is a pygmy and a few months old based on horn growth. Be aware, if she is full pygmy, she won't get much bigger in stature. The buckling looks to be a Nigerian Dwarf cross and at least a year old based on horn growth...

Thanks so much for all this! I assumed the male was a year at least as you said because of the horns. Also he has very large balls haha.

I am going to head to the feed store this afternoon to get some proper nutrition for these two.

Hopefully the person who these goats belong to doesn't come forward after I took the balls off...

But I think I have no business producing more goats. I don't even know what they eat!
 
Boot Jack Bulls said:
greggy said:
I have had a couple of different breeds, but there is literally many breeds, like cattle, but much more colour variety.....

Goats are ruminants, like sheep and similar too cattle, but are also strong browsers, the video may be funny, but goats like to climb, that tree full of goats is not fake, although most domestic ones wont be trying to climb high into trees, but you better believe they will climb your car, or anything else that is around, and often that means fencing..... corners of fencing with a 45 degree brace is an invitation to go walk about :)

Anyways, I would be less worried about escape with only 2, just make sure you do not leave or let into house yard or where your nice cars are.

Re feed, sheep and goats are sensitive too too much copper, so you cannot feed them everything that your cattle eat in regard to made up pellets, as far as grasses, novel feeds, hays, grains, they can have the same, just remember with grain etc the rumen is much much c\smaller, so you cannot let them have at it with those concentrated feeds, lock it up well... hays and pasture, no drama, give them your food scraps minus any meats, just look at what is bad for any ruminant & keep that away.

They survive fantastically in bush or wild areas, so are pretty hardy.

Also, they can eat weeds & their system is actually able to kill those seeds, so they do not spread them around your property, like blackberry....
Actually, in regards to feed/minerals, goats NEED copper-lots of it, in amounts that kill sheep. They can be effectively dry-lotted, but do need access to stemmy, vitamin B heavy forage. High quality alfalfa works well. As far as feed goes, a beginner is wise to start with a complete pellet designed for goats. If they have access to forage, really only lactating does and kids need grain/feed.

And yes, that buck can breed when he is as young as 2 months old! We breed our boer does when they are 12-14 months old. For the most part, you want a doe to be at least 1 year before breeding and kid out at 2 years old. I wouldn't leave your pair together at this point!

Oh, ok, here you have cattle feed and it tells you not to feed to other ruminants etc...

You can buy sheep feed that also is fed too goats.

They breed like flies here in very harsh terrain browsing on whatever bits of bush remain in drough effected land, anything they get is from the land, so I would not be worrying too much about extras, my family has had goats, sheep and cattle for years, the sheep and goats get no extra anything, during the drought the goats still do well, they browse all the scrubby weedy areas, the cattle are the worst and need kid gloves to stay in condition.

They can get worm loads if on small areas, that can knock them off.
 
Boot Jack has some very nice goats.... and shows them and breeds good ones. If anyone knows goats, it's him. If you are going to keep them, I would make the male a wether so you don't have to worry about babies, and keep them for pets. If you decide you really like goats, then you could breed the female in the future. But if you get him castrated.... and you might want to have a vet do it because he is so large at this stage, then you can just enjoy their antics. Yes, they will climb on everything they can get their hooves on. There is a special "no climb" wire that they can't get a foothold in to get out.
Goat meat is very much in demand, different ethnic groups pay dearly for 40-60 lb kids. They PREFER intact goats so if you are thinking selling, don't fix him.... just sell him.
 
greggy said:
Boot Jack Bulls said:
greggy said:
I have had a couple of different breeds, but there is literally many breeds, like cattle, but much more colour variety.....

Goats are ruminants, like sheep and similar too cattle, but are also strong browsers, the video may be funny, but goats like to climb, that tree full of goats is not fake, although most domestic ones wont be trying to climb high into trees, but you better believe they will climb your car, or anything else that is around, and often that means fencing..... corners of fencing with a 45 degree brace is an invitation to go walk about :)

Anyways, I would be less worried about escape with only 2, just make sure you do not leave or let into house yard or where your nice cars are.

Re feed, sheep and goats are sensitive too too much copper, so you cannot feed them everything that your cattle eat in regard to made up pellets, as far as grasses, novel feeds, hays, grains, they can have the same, just remember with grain etc the rumen is much much c\smaller, so you cannot let them have at it with those concentrated feeds, lock it up well... hays and pasture, no drama, give them your food scraps minus any meats, just look at what is bad for any ruminant & keep that away.

They survive fantastically in bush or wild areas, so are pretty hardy.

Also, they can eat weeds & their system is actually able to kill those seeds, so they do not spread them around your property, like blackberry....
Actually, in regards to feed/minerals, goats NEED copper-lots of it, in amounts that kill sheep. They can be effectively dry-lotted, but do need access to stemmy, vitamin B heavy forage. High quality alfalfa works well. As far as feed goes, a beginner is wise to start with a complete pellet designed for goats. If they have access to forage, really only lactating does and kids need grain/feed.

And yes, that buck can breed when he is as young as 2 months old! We breed our boer does when they are 12-14 months old. For the most part, you want a doe to be at least 1 year before breeding and kid out at 2 years old. I wouldn't leave your pair together at this point!

Oh, ok, here you have cattle feed and it tells you not to feed to other ruminants etc...

You can buy sheep feed that also is fed too goats.

They breed like flies here in very harsh terrain browsing on whatever bits of bush remain in drough effected land, anything they get is from the land, so I would not be worrying too much about extras, my family has had goats, sheep and cattle for years, the sheep and goats get no extra anything, during the drought the goats still do well, they browse all the scrubby weedy areas, the cattle are the worst and need kid gloves to stay in condition.

They can get worm loads if on small areas, that can knock them off.
The goats you have in the land of Oz are widely accepted to be far more hardy and resistant. Most of what you will find here, especially small breeds, are more for pets than anything. They simply can't make a big enough carcass or be a efficient grazier to be commercially accepted. Also, good point on the parasites. US bred goats have notoriously poor parasite resistance. Breed for better resistance or plan your management accordingly.
 
farmerjan said:
Boot Jack has some very nice goats.... and shows them and breeds good ones. If anyone knows goats, it's him. If you are going to keep them, I would make the male a wether so you don't have to worry about babies, and keep them for pets. If you decide you really like goats, then you could breed the female in the future. But if you get him castrated.... and you might want to have a vet do it because he is so large at this stage, then you can just enjoy their antics. Yes, they will climb on everything they can get their hooves on. There is a special "no climb" wire that they can't get a foothold in to get out.
Goat meat is very much in demand, different ethnic groups pay dearly for 40-60 lb kids. They PREFER intact goats so if you are thinking selling, don't fix him.... just sell him.
Thanks for the kind words Jan! The thing about selling goats is to know your market. For example, certain groups do pay a premium for a specific size carcass (40-60 pounds). Some want only an intact male. Some want to slaughter and quarter on site. Personally, we do not cater to any of that. Our target, aside from very top quality breeding stock, is whethers that are 100-120 at 90-120 days of age. We have proven we can put a 4.5+ inch ribeye on in that time, compared to the industry standard of 2-2.5 inches. They are on contract to a buyer who wants exactly the kind of super muscled, properly finished, young carcass we can provide. They end up in high-end restaurants in eastern WI and on the east coast. In this case, they want a mild, tender protein that doesn't smell of goats and is not the typical stringy texture of old goat.
 
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