Bale Grazing

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Bringing back an older thread. If you are in the northern US or Canada and have tried or are using Bale Grazing what has been your experiences and recommendations? I can see where improving the pasture is a big plus, but what is the downside? Does snow depth make it more work if you also use bale rings to reduce waste? This winter we have almost 24 inches of snow on the ground and I wonder if that makes it more work to access the bales.
 
I've done a little over time. For me the next year was not very impressive, however year 2 looked a lot better. I think it is a great tool if you don't have to graze it the next year. If you need the pasture for the next summer I think unrolling is the way to go. imo
 
I couldn't afford to buy enough hay to subsidize that much waste. Ever.
Last few years, we were unrolling. Cows came into barnlot to eat their grain (DDG) ration; while they were in the barnlot, we unrolled on the paddock they would go back out to. We 'limit-fed' enough hay to provide each cow with ~25# hay/day. They would clean up the day's hay ration inside of 2-3 hours. Only on really muddy days was there any wastage, and even then not a lot got tread in. Most dry or frozen days, they cleaned up every scrap.
If it was REALLY soupy, we had a 50x80 concrete feeding pad that we would unroll a bale on and let them stay in that lot until they cleaned it up.
 
I think with 24" of snow you would want to skip the bale ring. That would be a pain to wrestle a bale ring around in that much snow. I don't think the waste would be as high on a thick layer of snow, but I could be wrong. I don't have experience bale grazing in 24" of snow.

I have only done it with bale rings in the past and my cows didn't waste all that much more when compared to other feeding methods I have tried. Mud is the main problem here. Mine waste far more if I roll out a bale. I have been running an electric fence down the edge of the unrolled hay to keep them from walking on it. That seems to do the trick pretty well. Even with that a bale lasts just as long if I am bale grazing with a bale feeder as it does if I unroll the hay. That has been my experience.
 
Bringing back an older thread. If you are in the northern US or Canada and have tried or are using Bale Grazing what has been your experiences and recommendations? I can see where improving the pasture is a big plus, but what is the downside? Does snow depth make it more work if you also use bale rings to reduce waste? This winter we have almost 24 inches of snow on the ground and I wonder if that makes it more work to access the bales.
Bringing back an older thread. If you are in the northern US or Canada and have tried or are using Bale Grazing what has been your experiences and recommendations? I can see where improving the pasture is a big plus, but what is the downside? Does snow depth make it more work if you also use bale rings to reduce waste? This winter we have almost 24 inches of snow on the ground and I wonder if that makes it more work to access the bales.
I think with 24" of snow you would want to skip the bale ring. That would be a pain to wrestle a bale ring around in that much snow. I don't think the waste would be as high on a thick layer of snow, but I could be wrong. I don't have experience bale grazing in 24" of snow. I have only done it with bale rings in the past and my cows didn't waste all that much more when compared to other feeding methods I have tried. Mud is the main problem here. Mine waste far more if I roll out a bale. I have been running an electric fence down the edge of the unrolled hay to keep them from walking on it. That seems to do the trick pretty well. Even with that a bale lasts just as long if I am bale grazing with a bale feeder as it does if I unroll the hay. That has been my experience.
 
Bringing back an older thread. If you are in the northern US or Canada and have tried or are using Bale Grazing what has been your experiences and recommendations? I can see where improving the pasture is a big plus, but what is the downside? Does snow depth make it more work if you also use bale rings to reduce waste? This winter we have almost 24 inches of snow on the ground and I wonder if that makes it more work to access the bales.
I let cows into a field of bales a few years back — so much rain that I couldn't cross the creek to move the bales home in the fall. No rings, no electric fence, just let them feed. Was very pleased with the way they cleaned up the hay — very little waste. Haying the next year was no problem, and the second year super. Use only sisal twine. Will give it another try on an adjacent field in March if the weather breaks this year. Then move the herd to rye in April. Ground freezes hard in North Dakota — mud only a problem when feeding in yards. Waste? The whole point of bale grazing is too leave some waste!
 
We only use bale grazing if we have to feed for more then 2 days. Our herd is in a larger area, has access to bush and pasture for a whole quarter section. We are in Canada and in snow.
I don't mind doing that every now and then, but you have to have enough bales out that every animal can easily get to feed, otherwise they are fighting too much over to get to the feed.
Don't waste your time putting bale rings out in the pasture when you bale graze there, maybe the better question would be how many cows are you talking about? And how many bales? A whole field of bales, which are still there from haying? Or you wanting to put out bales as needed?
Depth of snow (in my view) doesn't really matter, as long as the cows can get to them.

And that is my 5 cents.
 
In my case this March it will be a whole field of bales — about 60 acres — left from haying. As soon as there's enough water thawed for them to drink anywhere they want, they are going out. About 30 cows still nursing calves. Then sometime in April to a field of winter rye. Am a fall/late summer calver. Will wean off the rye by moving the cows to native grass in May. Might or might not ration bales with electric fence — depending on conditions.
 
I think with 24" of snow you would want to skip the bale ring. That would be a pain to wrestle a bale ring around in that much snow. I don't think the waste would be as high on a thick layer of snow, but I could be wrong. I don't have experience bale grazing in 24" of snow.

I have only done it with bale rings in the past and my cows didn't waste all that much more when compared to other feeding methods I have tried. Mud is the main problem here. Mine waste far more if I roll out a bale. I have been running an electric fence down the edge of the unrolled hay to keep them from walking on it. That seems to do the trick pretty well. Even with that a bale lasts just as long if I am bale grazing with a bale feeder as it does if I unroll the hay. That has been my experience.
agree. I would need to keep the area plowed from snow, which wont save much time. improving the pasture in an area would be the benefit, I guess. planning for next winter anyway because snow removal and placing bales would be lots of work. I cut my small herd from 16 to four last fall. need to get 20 steers to graze this summer and fall until November. Thanks everyone for all the input on bale grazing.
 
Waste can very much be an indicator of what kind of hay you have in combination to how much you are giving them.

I have baled grazed and unrolled and what I found is with either system you don't give them more then they need. It may take a couple tries if you are just starting it to figure it out. Also, if you make them clean it up better they catch on that they don't get more until they do.

If it's not something they like, obviously they will waste more. Especially if you give them too much.

If i unroll a bale of our johnsongrass hay you will be hard pressed to see where it was other then the manure piles. Ripe first cutting stuff there is more left.

My preferred method is unrolling with the side by side and then kicking it over in half to make a windrow. They don't seem to walk down the middle of it as much that way.

I'm not doing bale grazing anymore because here it is too muddy in the winter and pastures don't recover as fast.
 
If you look back in this thread to 2020, you'll see that I advocated for bale grazing... and I certainly do think that there's a place for it. But it's all about "context" of what you need to accomplish in the environment you've been dealt. I'm running considerably more animals now than I was in 2020 (perhaps 100 head then, vs. nearly 400 head now). And contrary to what one might expect because of labor requirements, I now PREFER to unroll my hay, vs. bale grazing.

Remember where I'm at... Minnesota..., where we have "poor man's concrete" for months upon months working in our favor. And we have SNOW... enough that you simply can't get around at all, even empty, with a regular 4 wheeler or SXS or pickup. A snowmobile could work for transportaion of a man..., but a tractor with chains... and/or FWA is the only practical means of getting around with any amount of weight (a bale for example), period. And even that will be sketchy at times, but for the most part, you ARE able to get around reasonably well. If/when it gets too deep, bale grazing is potentially the only REAL option... so you might wish you had SOME bales set out ahead of time, just so you could feed those cows "somehow". That's your "insurance".

One thing that many don't realize is that snow eventually can/will render your electric fences almost worthless... The cattle don't "ground" very well through a snow pack (even with a super big, appropriately grounded fencer). Deep snow can bury fences completely, and drag down the wires, potentially forcing them onto the ground itself... reducing its potential effectiveness and strength of shock. When you have hundreds of feet of fence buried or pulled down onto the ground, the shocking ability is quickly minimized if not eliminated. And there's no cure for that, other than springtime. You're not going to go out there and "unbury" hundreds or perhaps thousands of feet of drifted in fenceline.

With bale grazing and relatively few animals, your "headaches" are pretty minimal. But you're also "locked in" to your plan, with no ability to adapt to unforseen issues that might arise. If unrolling as required, you CAN regulate how much they're receiving more easily, when they'll receive it, and WHERE it might be placed. If the weather is going to be bad with wind, I CAN feed where the animals have more protection. On "nice" days, I can feed them where they're more exposed. If the fence in a particular area is going to get buried by snow later in the winter, I CAN feed in that area prior to getting the snow, so that they're not tempted by that buried fence later. If it's going to be muddy, I CAN feed on high ground on those days... I CAN feed at night when it might be frozen, etc. I CAN spread those animals out over a MUCH larger area if necessary. You maintain far more adaptability. I CAN manage on a daily basis to minimize hay wastage much better than with bale grazing. But those "adaptive advantages" comes with a cost... it means you (labor) have to be starting a tractor (equipment/fuel) regularly throughout the winter to feed them.

When I unroll my bales, I currently end up with a windrow over a half mile long, with cattle spread out over that full length. When I get to the far end of the windrow unrolling, I turn around and come back... all along the length of that windrow, eyeballing every single animal individually, to see how they're doing, and to find any "problems" that might need attention. With a big herd, that's a huge benefit... not so much with like 20 head or so. And you can avoid too heavily concentrated hoof impacts, and over-applied residues and manure nutrients.
 
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RDFF - excellent post!!! You covered some really great points.
LOL you sure nailed it about the electric fence and snow. I always thought - well, snow is water, so the cows should REALLY be grounded,. NOPE. Too much air??? I don't know, but they are not grounded. And you don't need burying snow, just 10-14" and they are good to go - literally!!!!
 
Here in TN it's super muddy most of winter. While I prefer to unroll for the same reasons as RDFF, there is too much waste being stomped into the mud.

I set out a days worth of bales. Remove the strings, and let them have at it. No ring. If the hay is of good quality, waste will be minimal. If it's lower quality, there will be a decent amount of waste.

The amount of wasted hay is acceptable. And compared to using rings. There is hardly any exposed ground.

I think rings are too expensive unless you're feeding less than 10 head. A good heavy ring is over $500 I do believe.
 
If one of your primary goals is to improve the pasture's fertility and grass growing ability, then unrolling is in most cases the best, most economical way to feed to achieve that goal across a lot more area.......... seems obvious right? Spread everything out across more ground, improve more ground faster. If you're buying in hay, you're bringing fertility from somebody else's acres and fertilization program and applying it to your acres.

If I was "buying and applying fertilizer" (meaning inorganic fertilizer) to make my pasture grow more feed, would I haul it out there and put it on a pile, or on "multiple piles", or would I try to spread it somewhat evenly across the whole pasture? Would I perhaps, in order to build up a specific area that's more deficient and in need of more work, potentially spread "more" fertilizer over that area... like is done with "variable rate spreading"? Absolutely... THOSE are the value-added benefits gained by bale unrolling, vs. bale grazing. But nothing is "free" in this world... that benefit comes with a cost in labor, fuel, and equipment.

If your goal of lowest cost to FEED the hay (labor/fuel/equipment/etc,.) is your primary goal (NOT the lowest cost for the fed hay itself, because of potential for waste), then bale grazing is your best bet. It can't compete with grazing stockpiled feed though, if you can accomplish that.
 
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As Littletom stated use your soil maps to determine which soil will respond the most to treatment. There is a limit to how productive a soil can be. Some soils will respond to a high level and some soils not so much. Feed the good soil more than the bad soil. Your soil maps will tell you where those soils are.
 
As Littletom stated use your soil maps to determine which soil will respond the most to treatment. There is a limit to how productive a soil can be. Some soils will respond to a high level and some soils not so much. Feed the good soil more than the bad soil. Your soil maps will tell you where those soils are.
While it's true that often "good soil" will respond with more return/$ invested on fertilization than "bad soil" will, there's a reason for that... it's because that "good soil" already has more biological activity... because of higher levels of soil organic matter, etc. It takes biology to respond to any fertilizer, be it conventional or manure. The soil biology is what delivers the nutrients to the plants and allows them to make use of it.

When it comes to "bale grazing" or "unrolling bales", you're doing something very different toward the goal of "fertility" than what you're doing when applying inorganic fertilizer. You're BUILDING the biological component of the soil... creating an inviting, habitable "home" for it (i.e.: a more suitable habitat), and kick starting the biological processes with the already "biologically composted" plant residues that then are the food/fuel that the biology requires and that is currently lacking/insufficient in that "bad soil".

It's because of a reduced capacity to support high levels of biological life... and therefore the reduced biological activity in the bad soil, that makes it "bad, less productive soil". It is true that as the productivity of a soil is increased (as it becomes more and more biologically active), the amount to be gained by "improving it" further becomes less potent. Increasing the SOC from 2% to 4% for example will likely result in MORE of an increase in measurable productivity (yield) than increasing it from 8% to 12%. However, the 8-12% SOC soil is still going to be a more productive, more forgiving, more resilient, less costly soil to farm, and SHOULD BE more valuable to any farmer considering the two soils.
 

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