Auto Waterers/Tire Tanks?

[CowboyRam]

I have two Lil'Spring waterers and have had trouble with the line under the waterer freezing when it gets really cold. I have been thinking of putting a 60 watt light under it with the hopes that it will create just enough heat to keep the line from freezing.

 

[fnfarms1]

Your Ritchie waterer might work better if you had an insulated tube instead of a 5-gallon bucket around the vertical part of the water line. If the ground freezes, then that makes a cold hole where your plumbing is.

Here we have to bury water lines at least 5 feet and 6 feet is better. Then use an insulated (earth) tube from ground surface to the supply line. The earth heat in the insulated tube will keep the plumbing from freezing. The insulated tube needs to be able to fit inside the outer walls of the waterer. Concrete pad does not cover the hole -- pour it around the lip of the insulated tube and install waterer directly over the tube.

Here we are a 2-3ft bury for water lines. NE OK we typically get a total of 10-50 days below 30deg so we dont really get as cold as alot of you im sure. Last year i think we had 10-12 days i had to break ice on pond.

 

[fnfarms1]

I haven't had a single issue with my Richies freezing up even at -30 thankfully.

Looking at putting a drinker in at a remote farm next year and have been reading up on some of the energy free units but not sure of they will fit the bill. They all seem to rely on cows drinking and the water turning over. My cows will sometimes go a week or more without trekking to the corral for water in the winter.

Mine are all energy free. We dont get cold enough to justify heaters IMO.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

I think the energy free might work here if they were the cows only source of water and they used it often. We typically have so much snow that the ground stays thawed and the snow slowly melts from underneath so if the cows walk and root around they find water under the snow to drink even when it's -20. Afraid if the cows didn't come drink for 7-10+ days the energy free ones would be frozen up solid without the water turning over.

 

[cfpinz]

Here we are a 2-3ft bury for water lines. NE OK we typically get a total of 10-50 days below 30deg so we dont really get as cold as alot of you im sure. Last year i think we had 10-12 days i had to break ice on pond.

That's pretty similar to where I live and we bury lines 2-3' deep with no trouble. I put either a 2' or 3' insulated earth tube under the Ritchie in our front field, and added a 5 gallon bucket notched on the side to get a little extra length and protect the line at the elbow. That was probably 20 years ago and the lines/valve assy have never frozen. When it gets down in the single digits, I've had the balls freeze up on top if one of them isn't sealing properly and allowing cold air in. Biggest complaint I have is the plastic material has started to degrade over the last few years and the whole top piece (all of the red parts) needs to be replaced.

Long story short, I'd be willing to bet that adding an earth tube to yours and sealing out the air front entering between the base and pad will solve your freezing problems. You're going to have a lot of heat loss with the wind in your area otherwise.

 

[Silver]

I have two Lil'Spring waterers and have had trouble with the line under the waterer freezing when it gets really cold. I have been thinking of putting a 60 watt light under it with the hopes that it will create just enough heat to keep the line from freezing.

I use a light bulb under my troughs. I use 150 watt heat light but that might be overkill. But better than not having enough. When thing freeze underneath it is a real pain.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

My richies have heat tape that is attached to the pipe from the float down the pipe about 3' underground. Knock on wood no need for a light bulb.

 

[Silver]

My richies have heat tape that is attached to the pipe from the float down the pipe about 3' underground. Knock on wood no need for a light bulb.

I do have a Richie set up the same way and so far so good. The thing that makes me nervous about heat tape is that I can't see if it's working.

 

[GoWyo]

Had a Mirafont (think that's what it was) at the old place that I didn't use an insulated tube and just had a 6 or 8 inch PVC down to the supply line. That thing was always freezing up until I put in a heat tape that I just let hang down the PVC tube. Then put in a 40 watt light bulb for backup and that kept it plenty warm. Here at the place we have been since 2015 I installed either tire tanks or Cobett and nothing is heated. Have to deal some with ice, but no electrical problems.

 

[jltrent]

Yours looks neater and nicer than mine and also a different shut off valve. Mine has been in since 2000 and probably replaced the float valve three times in each as the water pressure just wears them out. I have brass Robert valves and other than replacing the valves every 7-8 years the system has been trouble free. I figure the 36 ply tires will last as long as I will be needing them and if you feed the cattle close, they keep them broke.

Adding a few more pictures of the spring and gravity flow tank

Yours looks neater and nicer than mine and also a different shut off valve. Mine has been in since 2000 and probably replaced the float valve three times in each as the water pressure just wears them out. I have brass Robert valves and other than replacing the valves every 7-8 years the system has been trouble free. I figure the 36 ply tires will last as long as I will be needing them and if you feed the cattle close, they keep them broke.

Adding some pictures of the spring and gravity flow tank on the hill...

The pole in the tank is on a float and I can tell how much water in in it from looking far away as the peak circles the property and gravity flow every direction.

The overflow on the spring which fills a lot of the year a 5" pipe full.

The spring tank that flows in underground and I can change out a Gould pump fast that usually lasts 6-7 years.

The timer I usually speedup or slow down a couple times a year and the electric bill for three houses, cattle runs less than $30 a month.

 

[fnfarms1]

That's pretty similar to where I live and we bury lines 2-3' deep with no trouble. I put either a 2' or 3' insulated earth tube under the Ritchie in our front field, and added a 5 gallon bucket notched on the side to get a little extra length and protect the line at the elbow. That was probably 20 years ago and the lines/valve assy have never frozen. When it gets down in the single digits, I've had the balls freeze up on top if one of them isn't sealing properly and allowing cold air in. Biggest complaint I have is the plastic material has started to degrade over the last few years and the whole top piece (all of the red parts) needs to be replaced.

Long story short, I'd be willing to bet that adding an earth tube to yours and sealing out the air front entering between the base and pad will solve your freezing problems. You're going to have a lot of heat loss with the wind in your area otherwise.

Talked to the guy with local company that sells/installs tire tanks, Ritchies, and Mirafounts. Said tire tanks are great in pasture, only way to go. Ritchies are best in corrals. Mirafounts are good units but a big pain to work on vs the Ritchie. Also he thinks we can still get black/orange colored Ritchies which was a thing when i did mine years ago. It would help the color of the Richie ie black would hold the heat better. So looking at replacing them all with new units, reseal them all with better earth tubes etc.

 

[clarkmorefarm]

I have the 3 Tru-Test that I have installed this year so far. Haven't made it to winter yet, but they work great. I chose them over the Ritchies by advice from my co-op and the Jobe valves they have. My water lines are 3ft deep and my earth tube is 2 five gallons buckets screwed together. My water line has insulation on them from the elbow that feeds it up to the valve on the tank. The Tru-Test do come with seals for the perimeter and the OD of the earth tube. I purchased precast slabs that my waters attach to.

 

[kenny thomas]

I have the 3 Tru-Test that I have installed this year so far. Haven't made it to winter yet, but they work great. I chose them over the Ritchies by advice from my co-op and the Jobe valves they have. My water lines are 3ft deep and my earth tube is 2 five gallons buckets screwed together. My water line has insulation on them from the elbow that feeds it up to the valve on the tank. The Tru-Test do come with seals for the perimeter and the OD of the earth tube. I purchased precast slabs that my waters attach to.

May i suggest you raise the water level before winter to keep the cold air out. I like them because there is no bowl where the balls are to catch water and freeze.

 

[clarkmorefarm]

May i suggest you raise the water level before winter to keep the cold air out. I like them because there is no bowl where the balls are to catch water and freeze.

Yes, already have. That was the day I brought my cows home in September, only one had used a ball waterer before, so I left them at a lower level so they would get accustomed to them. I had planned on checking them all out again as we get closer to winter.

After chopping ice with an axe as a kid in ponds, I don't want to go back to relying on ponds anytime soon.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

Ponds are my goto water source for most of my cows ha. Cows can be a mile away from home and have water no worry about pump, pipes, bowls, etc.

 

[SDgrampa]

When a waterer does freeze,the fastest way to thaw is to run hot water on thr valve,pipe. I use a small weed sprayer. Hands stay dry and doesn't take long

 

[littletom]

What about cleaning them. Kinda been thinking about one at farm i run feeders on. I like to wash between loads.

 

[clarkmorefarm]

What about cleaning them. Kinda been thinking about one at farm i run feeders on. I like to wash between loads.

For witch type of waterer?

My Tru-Test have two drain plugs on either side of the tank, makes it very easy to clean, plus the top comes off easily too.

 

[fnfarms1]

For witch type of waterer?

My Tru-Test have two drain plugs on either side of the tank, makes it very easy to clean, plus the top comes off easily too.

The Ritchies are same. Im told the Mirafounts are more of a pain to work on. Very little room to work on them.

 

[fnfarms1]

So I've opted for new Ritchies. Local company said they can install 2 new Ritchies abd replace old ones and think they can fix my freezing issues. Says main thing is to feed hay close to the waterers so they use them more. Also im changing all my 4holes to 2holes to up the usage. 35-40hd max wont over use them. Planning to turn them side ways in fence line to allow both sides 2 balls. Im also glad for the pros to install plus saves me time. County NRCS paying for it so helps me but not out of my pocket. Worst case…..they freeze up few times a year like they have for 10yrs, and I've survived just fine. But ill have auto tanks in 2 pens ive wanted them in and couldn't afford until now the other 350days of year