Any windmill experts?

[cow pollinater]

Hi, yall.
I've got a windmill problem. I went to replace the leathers on a windmill on a ranch that I bought and I couldn't get the drop pipe to lift with a come-a-long hooked to the top of the stand... stuck tight and from what I'm told the windmill worked less than a year ago. I finally un-plumbed everything down to where I was working at ground level and the tried again and about twenty feet of drop pipe twisted off in my hand. Now the leathers and remaining drop pipe are stuck in the bottom of the well. I really doubt that any of our local pump guys can get to the sight as it takes 4x4 for me to get there with no extra weight... Any ideas???
If I was good at things like fixing windmills, I probably wouldn't have to shove my hand up a cow's A$$ for a living.

 

[Wild Cattle]

Just pull the pipe, sucker rod and all out of the casing. You are probably going to have to replace it all anyway, at least you nee to check everything. When you get the first joint of pipe up and off you should be able to get to the sucker rod and give another pull, but you might as well pull the whole thing. Your leathers are just getting hung in the working barrel. We usually need to chain down the pipe to the casing to keep it from riding up as we winch up the sucker rod and get the top check clear of the working barrel.

 

[cow pollinater]

Thank you. I'll be up there tommorrow so I'll try to pull the whole thing.

 

[dieselbeef]

o brock is online.... windmill service and theyre very helpful on the phone also

 

[Calman]

Just had this experience only last week.Might just as well go ahead and pull pipe and all,and replace it all.The whole set up was just 3 yrs old and we still couldn't get the sucker rod out.we pulled pipe and all and cut into pieces with a torch,except the sucker rod was wood and had to be cut with a hack saw.It was so rusty we couldn't brake the pipe loose at the joints.Make sure you get a good hold on the bottom pipe remaining in the well or it will fall back in the casing and then you are in big trouble.The working cylinder is made of brass and if you are lucky all you have to do is clean it.And last but not least remember that all leathers are faced with the cup up.We went back with all new pipe and fiberglass sucker rods.Was able to save the working cylinder.

Cal

 

[plumber_greg]

I didn't know you could still buy wooden sucker rod. At just 3 years old, why couldn't you get it apart? Did you hit the pipe couplings with a hammer before trying to loosen them? gs

 

[dieselbeef]

mines out of water..making the well deeper is a real pita without paying ssomeone....the pumping rod and the pipe comin up together and having to undo em sucks..

i wanted to put the check on top with a wellpoint but a windmilll guy told me that it wont suck water..only lift it so the check valves have to be submurged. that means the cylinder will need to be like 40 ft deep for me..im sure its worse other places but i will hafta pay someone to do that here...and i wanted to jut jet the wellpoints in

gary

 

[plumber_greg]

How high it will lift depends on your elevations and how much vacumn you can pull. Don't know what the limit is in Fl., but here it is 28', but the practical usage is about 21 or 22'. What that means is you could put the check at the top if the water level stays 21 or 22 feet below it and still create a vacumn to pull it up.
There is almost always a pipe connected to the bottom of the cylinder, the water has be pulled through the check to be pumped. If a vacumn is created, what is the difference whether or not the check is below water or above it? gs

 

[plumber_greg]

Never mind I reread your post. He's right, I was thinking just the check, you were talking the cylinder. gs

 

[dieselbeef]

well im gonna prove the guy wrong cuz i gotta make it work w/o getting a well driller.

ill put the well point down as far as i can jet a well...3''pvc...then on top of the well point ill put a check valve..foot valve whatever.... then the pipe to the top of the ground where ill have the cyl with the balls and leathers. probly some kind of cap to prime it and then the discarge line to my pond...
my sucker rod will be short that way too. maybe 30 ft only
if i need toadd a well point 10 ft away for more water i can add to the system this way also

sumer project while its 95 degrees...

its gotta werk..its just gotta...i know it will i know it will...lol...

 

[Wild Cattle]

Why not try a solar pump?

 

[dieselbeef]

:lol: cuz the 5k windmill is already standng over the hole in the ground







besides....mine probly 50 yrs old and nostalgic..solar pumps got no ''cool'' factor out front pasture :drink:

 

[plumber_greg]

It'll work DB, just take the time to prime it. Guess you don't have to worry about it freezing and busting. If you just trickle the water in, it may not air lock on you.. Why 3" pipe? If you used 1 1/2 you could raise it up and down by hand real fast and prime it that way. We do it on jet pumps all the time, lots easier to get it primed. You're gonna' need to hang around, if it gets a gulp of air the leathers won't last long runnin' dry. gs

 

[dieselbeef]

planning is still in the works..details...pipe size will probly change since i dont need the cylinder down the hole....

 

[Calman]

I didn't know you could still buy wooden sucker rod. At just 3 years old, why couldn't you get it apart? Did you hit the pipe couplings with a hammer before trying to loosen them? gs

Greg we prolly could have unscrewed the pipe but it was so rusty with holes in it we didn't want to take the time .easier with a torch.When we started pulling pipe we realized we paid for new pipe that was not new,so I couldnt tell you if the sucker rod was new or used when the guy put it in 3 yrs ago.The working cylinder was also used,but in good shape. we went back with fiberglass sucker rod and new 2in pipe.

Cal