Dodge doesn't use electric 4 wheel drive actuators. Never have. Up to 2001, they used the same vacuum actuated CAD system that Ford uses (the reason for this is that Ford and Dodge both used the exact same Dana axles until Dodge switched to Corporates in 05). In 2001, Dodge switched to full time axles, which is a MUCH better idea than either vacuum or electric CAD systems. In 2001, Dodge also switched to full Dana 80s on the cab and chassis models. They were the only manufacturer to use a full 80, versus the hybrid 70/80 back in those years.
Back to the original question. A 97 or 98 12 valve will easily outpull your 7.3, especially when overloaded or in hills. Many consider the 96 - 98 12 valve/5 speed Dodge to be the best truck Dodge ever built for economy and power. The Bosch P-pump injection pump is second to none for reliability and they used some really nice injectors that were perfectly matched to the piston bowls, especially after bumping timing up to around 15 degrees advance. For around 130 bucks, you can replace the fuel plate, boost timing to 17 degrees and add 120 - 130HP to the stock truck without losing fuel economy (unless you use the power with a heavy foot)
Make sure the transmission had the 5th gear nut change up done. They solved that issue many, many years ago, so I suspect most will have it done. For longer life front ends, go with Moog high quality replacements. They'll outlast factory stuff 5 to 1, putting the Dodge front end back on the same ground as either a Chevy or a Ford.
On the sheet metal side, every truck has to have its issues, and Dodge no doubt has the weakest body of any of them. Given that you get a superior powertrain toughness, economy, power and rough road handling, I'd give up a little on the body side
Onto the issues that have been posted, dunno if you guys still have the trucks or not, but heres some advice:
1) For the slack rear gears - Hire new mechanics. The Dana hybrid is an amazing set of gears, thats why Ford, Dodge and Chevy have run them or still run them. The slack is due either to u-joints (probable) or inadequate lash when installing the gearset.
2) For the door issue. If its the hinges themselves, replacement are available at NAPA right along side the Chevy replacements. If its the actual weak metal along the door edges, pop the inside door panel off and get a welder to toss two pieces of channel iron inside where the hinge sits. 1/2 hour and you're on your way.
3) For the 4x4 actuator - Fix the vacuum lines. They've probably cracked. 50 cents and you've got reliable 4WD again. You can buy a manual locking hub kit, if you really want to go back to them. City folks don't like getting their toes muddy when they go somewhere they shouldn't have been, so full time, vaccum CADs and electric hubs are the norm. :lol2: I used to miss manual locking hubs, until I realized that the CAD systems (and full time) are tougher than the old locking hubs. The straight electric hubs that Chev uses are pretty good, the electric over gas were poor. Vacuum CAD is a decent solution, although slower to engage than the electrics. I personally prefer full time.
Rod
