1ton vs 3/4ton truck shopping

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I pull a 30' 5th wheel camper with a 3/4 ton. No issues. If you go the bumper pull route, you want/need a weight distribution hitch no matter what truck you have because of the tongue weight.
I figure the hitch and a set of air bags would help if I find that I'm overloading a 3/4ton. Or add an overload spring. The air bags would be a nice medium so still get a better ride unloaded. Level it out loaded.
 
I deliver new trailers with a Duramax that has had the DEF deleted. I get 28 empty and up to 21 pulling a trailer. The truck has 497,000 miles on it but had a used engine put in at around 450,000.
I get 22 all day long running empty with an 02 7.3 that's tuned 16 pulling.
Neighbor just sold his 05 5.9 20K cash. Those trucks are bringing crazy money.
The 95-99 Fords are bringing in the 30's.
 
I figure the hitch and a set of air bags would help if I find that I'm overloading a 3/4ton. Or add an overload spring. The air bags would be a nice medium so still get a better ride unloaded. Level it out loaded.
Go across a scale with a single rw wheel truck and a loaded 5th wheel. Then look at your tire and truck ratings. Can do and should do are two completely different things, especially in the eyes of the person's attorney you just hit. We get A LOT of slack in the Ag industry. Its not the same when you go recreational or commercial.
 
Go across a scale with a single rw wheel truck and a loaded 5th wheel. Then look at your tire and truck ratings. Can do and should do are two completely different things, especially in the eyes of the person's attorney you just hit. We get A LOT of slack in the Ag industry. Its not the same when you go recreational or commercial.
Good advice
 
We have an F250 with 7.3 it's got 350k miles on it, pulls everything we put behind it with power to spare. We have an F350 with the 6.0 in it pulls everything as well with copious amount of power to spare. Both are SRW and when we put our 30' gooseneck on them, they power wise pull fine but beg for mercy as soon as the trailer is loaded to capacity at 20k. Then we bought a 37' toy hauler and it almost laid the F350 on the ground. I bought a 2001 F450 dually with a studded 7.3 137k miles on it paid 30k for it air bagged( though the truck is so burly nothing squats it with the bags empty) it hauls everything without hesitation without being iffy about bumper pulled or gooseneck stability. Granted empty it is a nasty ride. All our trucks are 4wd. My dad has an 02' I think with the 6.0 duramax 2wd dually 350k miles and other than going through a/c condenser units lately, it's an absolutely reliable vehicle, tows anything with plenty of power, stability and gets 22 mpg. None of my Fords get over 16 mpg as they are 4wd. When I am hauling heavy short distance I use the F450 if I'm going long distance I borrow my dad's duramax dually for the comfort and milage. His is a one ton 3500 and he's constantly pulling bumper pull trailers and boats to go camping and crabbing. I used to think that I could do anything go anywhere with my old gas engine trucks, until I bought a diesel, yeah they cost more upfront and to maintain and fuel, but the difference of having more pulling, hauling and 2-3x the longevity is a more than fair trade. If you get a Ford, stay away from the 6.4 they are extremely unreliable for longevity. The 7.3 is the million mile engine if you stay up on oil and filter changes. The 6.0 is a beast but is more of a 350-500k mile engine, the 6.7 is a beast but is in the DEF era.
 
Go across a scale with a single rw wheel truck and a loaded 5th wheel. Then look at your tire and truck ratings. Can do and should do are two completely different things, especially in the eyes of the person's attorney you just hit. We get A LOT of slack in the Ag industry. Its not the same when you go recreational or commercial.
I agree. The dual wheels sure make pulling loads more stable.

Also, exhaust brakes are helpful on the newer 1 tons. We always had them added because of hauling cattle and 7 ton of mineral, but now in new vehicles they come standard. The Ford ones, 2018 (not sure about the newer ones) aren't as good as the Dodge exhaust brakes. We live in mountainous country so they are essential, especially in diesel pickup. (I only know this because I listen to the what the guys say.) Mr. FH used to say, "they make the pickups to go fast, but they need to do more on stopping". So now that has been addressed.

We also have air bags on our 1 ton Dodge 3500 dually 4x4.
 
How often do you use them?
:)
He makes sure they work before hauling anything. 😊I've heard them pump up.😊

The real question is, "how often does he use the pickup any more?" It sits a lot.
For what we do now, he would get a single wheeled one, but he has this one all pimped out.
CM flatbed, Herd aluminum bumper, all things that were expensive that couldn't be
put on a new single axle, so it's okay if this one sits...doesn't cost much to sit. The
original warranty will be up this fall, not sure about buying an extended warranty.
$3800 for 10 years/120,000 miles/no deductible or $2879 for 8 years/100,000 miles,
no deductible. Bumper to bumper. A couple of years ago we were quoted.120,000 mi/no deductible $2038; 6 years 100,000 mi/no deductible S1613. So the price has increased substantially.
Probably because of the cost of repairs. What bothers me is that 36,000 of the 100,000 (or 120,000) miles is already covered by the original warranty.

So what are y'alls thoughts on buying extended warranties?
And if he deletes the warranty is voided anyway. That's why he was waiting til fall and
the original warranty expires.
So far, no issues at all.
TIA.
Did I mention he is a man of many trailers? He has so many I've lost count. But he says he uses them all. 🤣😂🤣
 
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I agree. The dual wheels sure make pulling loads more stable.

Also, exhaust brakes are helpful on the newer 1 tons. We always had them added because of hauling cattle and 7 ton of mineral, but now in new vehicles they come standard. The Ford ones, 2018 (not sure about the newer ones) aren't as good as the Dodge exhaust brakes. We live in mountainous country so they are essential, especially in diesel pickup. (I only know this because I listen to the what the guys say.) Mr. FH used to say, "they make the pickups to go fast, but they need to do more on stopping". So now that has been addressed.

We also have air bags on our 1 ton Dodge 3500 dually 4x4.

I agree on the exhaust brake. GM has the most aggressive EB on the market right now. Once you learn how to use it... its a lifesaver. I trust it over any trailer brakes and it sure save both the truck and trailer brakes.
 
What issues have you had with the Fords?
All small problems but very irritating after all the years with very few issues.

2018 Diesel 50,000 miles on it - Radio went out, Sun roof leaked so bad it flooded the floors and console, death wobble (not terrible), battery cable corroded in two and left me stranded, batterys went dead left wife stranded, has some bad knocking in back when you hit a bump, have had to shut it down to correct some computer glitch a couple times, Start button is broke but works, third light camera works right about 65% of the time.

2019 Gas 43,000 miles- Death wobble so bad I couldn't drive it twice, second time I just bought aftermarket parts that seem to be better, already replaced all 4 shocks, had an intermittent over heating issue(seems to be fixed now), wouldn't start because of computer glitch (left me stranded), battery went dead (stranded again), Drives like hell if you get over 70 mph the shocks and aftermarket stabizer helped some, gets 9 mph no matter how I drive it.

Overall good trucks and I like them both but definitely didn't figure this many problems so soon. Maybe $70k and $55k wasn't enough money to buy a reliable rig. Lol The worst part is every Ford dealer around is so backed up with broken down Fords your kind of on your own unless you have a couple weeks to leave it. Didn't have these problems with the Dodges and was only left stranded once in 20 yrs of driving them. I think I might have caused that issue though.
 
2018 Diesel 50,000 miles on it - Radio went out, Sun roof leaked so bad it flooded the floors and console, death wobble (not terrible), battery cable corroded in two and left me stranded, batterys went dead left wife stranded, has some bad knocking in back when you hit a bump, have had to shut it down to correct some computer glitch a couple times, Start button is broke but works, third light camera works right about 65% of the time.
Where did the battery cable corrode?
 
The radio, sunroof, electronics is all of them. Best to dodge it as much as you can.

My Chevy had the screen go out and it was $700. Some ac door junk for adjusting air and it was about the same. Cheap part but located in the dash. My mechanic knew exactly what it was both times I walked up.

My biggest complaint on a Ford or Dodge is the sfa. You get a little wear and you get the death wobble. You can be hours from home and it hit out of no where. You are shut down. Plus the expense of shocks and stuff for front end.

GM still has IFS. It will roll until a wheel falls off. Shocks are 3 bolts and done.

GM is crazy expensive to delete vs Ford and Dodge though.
 
Where did the battery cable corrode?
On the Diesel the battery cable corroded on the passenger side battery positive terminal. The terminal connecects to the post then has two cables that connect to it. Were the cables connect is were it corroded in two. We'd been having an on going issue with the radio being set to military time and the DEF gauge going back to turbo gauge for several months. We were told this was due to using different key fobs with different driver settings but guess it was the corrosion. I bought a pretty neat little terminal from the parts store and made it work. About 2 weeks later both batterys went bad. That happened on the 2018 Diesel. Then th next week after I replaced the battery terminal the battery in the 2019 gas went out. It corroded the battery hold down pretty bad but the terminals were fine. So in all week 1 terminal corroded on '18, week 2 battery goes out on '19, week 3 both battery went out on '18. Just irritating stuff but nothing major.
 
The radio, sunroof, electronics is all of them. Best to dodge it as much as you can.

My Chevy had the screen go out and it was $700. Some ac door junk for adjusting air and it was about the same. Cheap part but located in the dash. My mechanic knew exactly what it was both times I walked up.

My biggest complaint on a Ford or Dodge is the sfa. You get a little wear and you get the death wobble. You can be hours from home and it hit out of no where. You are shut down. Plus the expense of shocks and stuff for front end.

GM still has IFS. It will roll until a wheel falls off. Shocks are 3 bolts and done.

GM is crazy expensive to delete vs Ford and Dodge though.
I agree with you on the electronics our 2018 has just about everything you can get and the 2019 was the cheapest one on the lot of a dealer that sells bare bones trucks. Problem is if you want the leather and console you gotta get the elctronics. The leather with heated and cold seats would be really nice in a work truck on those really hot or cold days but is useless to me in a truck used to go on trips. The other bells in whistles are nice while on a long trip but useless in a work truck. Kinda backwards if you ask me. 🤷

The death wobble is what it is. I dealt with it for years with the Dodges but it was predictable. These Fords just become undrivable out of the blue.
 
On the Diesel the battery cable corroded on the passenger side battery positive terminal. The terminal connecects to the post then has two cables that connect to it. Were the cables connect is were it corroded in two. We'd been having an on going issue with the radio being set to military time and the DEF gauge going back to turbo gauge for several months. We were told this was due to using different key fobs with different driver settings but guess it was the corrosion. I bought a pretty neat little terminal from the parts store and made it work. About 2 weeks later both batterys went bad. That happened on the 2018 Diesel. Then th next week after I replaced the battery terminal the battery in the 2019 gas went out. It corroded the battery hold down pretty bad but the terminals were fine. So in all week 1 terminal corroded on '18, week 2 battery goes out on '19, week 3 both battery went out on '18. Just irritating stuff but nothing major.
We have run Dodges since 1997 and we have never experienced the 'death wobble'.

We had problems on our 2016 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 dually but it was electrical. We finally
had to trade it off because the service dept never could find the reason. It got old taking
it in to the shop, they diagnose it, have to get permission to order the parts, then wait for
parts, then wait to get it 'fixed'. They replaced computers, that's all they knew to do. It would be in the shop for a week at a time. Then get it home and it would do the same thing. We finally gave up. We really liked that pickup too. Sad deal.

Where we traded it, they knew the problems we were having. They said when they took the flatbed off (we kept it to put on the new one) the wires were crimped or something. They say it happened when we got the flatbed installed. Funny it never showed up for 45,000 miles.
 
We had a 2012 Dodge 3/4 ton diesel that was probably the best truck we ever owned. No death wobble or any other issues. We put about 100k on it 6 yrs. Only problem I remember is a sensor went out at 80k and the mechanic said one of the batterys was bad so he replaced both of them too. Only way I knew the sensor was bad was a code flashed up. The death wobble was a small issue on a 2007 C&C that we kept about 12 yrs. It really wasn't a big deal but did happen from time to time. I sold that truck to my neighbor and he's still enjoying it.
 

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