1ton vs 3/4ton truck shopping

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Brute 23

Brute 23
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Had death wobble happen twice to me on my Dodge in places where I had to be towed in. 3rd time I could drive it to a dealer.

First time it happened to me I was going across a bridge. Hit a bump on the bridge and the front went to bucking at 75mph. Fun stuff.
 

cfpinz

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Had death wobble happen twice to me on my Dodge in places where I had to be towed in. 3rd time I could drive it to a dealer.

First time it happened to me I was going across a bridge. Hit a bump on the bridge and the front went to bucking at 75mph. Fun stuff.
Yup, every time I saw a bridge joint coming I death gripped the wheel and braced myself. It did it to between 15 and 20 times in 2 days as I was driving from VA to CO, put new tires on it in Denver and it went away - for about 5k miles. It shook the truck so hard that it would shake rounds out of my extra 9mm magazine.
 

Brute 23

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Yup, every time I saw a bridge joint coming I death gripped the wheel and braced myself. It did it to between 15 and 20 times in 2 days as I was driving from VA to CO, put new tires on it in Denver and it went away - for about 5k miles. It shook the truck so hard that it would shake rounds out of my extra 9mm magazine.
That is the bad part about it. If you have other worn parts and it does it... it can break those parts and cause a wreck.
 

mml373

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Bought new truck tonite. 2013 Cummins 4x4 2500, already has air bags
Beautiful! Hope it serves you well for many years to come.
I've had mine going on 16 years next month. It has never missed a beat.
 

Nesikep

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death wobble on the Dodges is 99% of the time caused by the track bar (that holds the front end from moving side to side) being worn, excessive toe-in can exacerbate it.. however we had it in our leaf spring, solid axle chevy as well and new shocks fixed it for that. If you ever have it happen and it happens repeatedly, take a 1" ratchet strap from the left framerail to the right side of the axle and put some preload on it.. it'll get you where you're going without having it happen again. The reason it happens is that the steering linkage is in front of the axle, a good bump and the truck's weight shifts to one side, which moves the axle, which turns the wheels so that more weight gets put on that side until suspension starts to release, then the truck gets momentum the other way and it happens in reverse, back and forth.. yeah, it's no fun dealing with
The chevies are nice, comfortable trucks, but they are NOT designed for bad roads, Local logging company has a couple '17s and they're in the 3rd front ends. Independent front suspension is nice but it gets expensive when you have so many moving joints that fail. Emissions systems clog up from stupid designs (like fuel tank vents, etc)

Fords, well, if you like the first step of most service procedures to be "Remove cab", then they're alright,, they just seem to be miserable basstards to work on, which is why I will not own a V8, just the access to everything with the cab-over design will make me use language that is bad for my afterlife

I can't speak for Ford and Chevs, but in dodges the frames are all the same between 3/4 and 1 tons, an extra leaf in the back is about the only difference.. Gas trucks except V10's and auto tranny trucks had lighter duty diffs, at least in the 2nd gens (Dana 70's vs Dana 80's), and they all had Dana 60 front ends, though the later ones had redesigned, heavier knuckles and had disc brake option in the back
 

CowsRcuddly

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A violent shake in the front end. A lot of people use the term improperly. There is no mistaking when it happens, and you cannot do anything to stop it except slow down. Many times it will be a pothole or something that sets it off. Ever seen a shopping cart with a bad wheel that just wobbles constantly? Imagine your truck doing that.

2nd generation Rams are the worst about it because of how the steering is designed, but any solid front axle vehicle with coil springs can do it. It's a problem on Super Duty Fords and Jeeps too. Leaf sprung trucks can as well but it's not as common.

It's usually caused by worn parts in the front end and lack of caster. Lift kits make it way worse because they decrease the caster angle. Loose steering parts, worn track bar, and worn control arm bushings are usually the prime suspects.
I have had that same thing happen to me twice now. Drove over a bridge while on a 2 lane highway and all at once it went crazy. I started to pull over and slow up, and it quit. My Ford F350 is only a 2017 with 21,000 miles on it. Is that a warranty thing? I purchased the extended warranty.
 
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fnfarms1

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death wobble on the Dodges is 99% of the time caused by the track bar (that holds the front end from moving side to side) being worn, excessive toe-in can exacerbate it.. however we had it in our leaf spring, solid axle chevy as well and new shocks fixed it for that. If you ever have it happen and it happens repeatedly, take a 1" ratchet strap from the left framerail to the right side of the axle and put some preload on it.. it'll get you where you're going without having it happen again. The reason it happens is that the steering linkage is in front of the axle, a good bump and the truck's weight shifts to one side, which moves the axle, which turns the wheels so that more weight gets put on that side until suspension starts to release, then the truck gets momentum the other way and it happens in reverse, back and forth.. yeah, it's no fun dealing with
The chevies are nice, comfortable trucks, but they are NOT designed for bad roads, Local logging company has a couple '17s and they're in the 3rd front ends. Independent front suspension is nice but it gets expensive when you have so many moving joints that fail. Emissions systems clog up from stupid designs (like fuel tank vents, etc)

Fords, well, if you like the first step of most service procedures to be "Remove cab", then they're alright,, they just seem to be miserable basstards to work on, which is why I will not own a V8, just the access to everything with the cab-over design will make me use language that is bad for my afterlife

I can't speak for Ford and Chevs, but in dodges the frames are all the same between 3/4 and 1 tons, an extra leaf in the back is about the only difference.. Gas trucks except V10's and auto tranny trucks had lighter duty diffs, at least in the 2nd gens (Dana 70's vs Dana 80's), and they all had Dana 60 front ends, though the later ones had redesigned, heavier knuckles and had disc brake option in the back
Some good info there. I ended up not trying to find the rare 1ton short wheel base. Instead I figure for my small operation a 3/4 with air bags will serve me a long time. I had a 3/4 I used for several years, probably overloaded it several times but never an issue. So far I love the truck, it’s basically my old dodge 8yrs newer. So far I’ve only put about 200miles on it, but pretty sure it’s a solid rig I was looking for. Deleted, mild tune.
 

kenny thomas

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I have had that same thing happen to me twice now. Drove over a bridge while on a 2 lane highway and all at once it went crazy. I started to pull over and slow up, and it quit. My Ford F350 is only a 2017 with 21,000 miles on it. Is that a warranty thing? I purchased the extended warranty.
It is a warranty issue but they won't recall it because every 250 and 350 Ford can have this issue. I think it started in 2016 and may still be happening. Don't take no for an answer. Before I retired we had dozens of the 250's fixed. I know some 350 trucks that were repaired this month.
 

Atimm693

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It is a warranty issue but they won't recall it because every 250 and 350 Ford can have this issue. I think it started in 2016 and may still be happening. Don't take no for an answer. Before I retired we had dozens of the 250's fixed. I know some 350 trucks that were repaired this month.

It mostly started on Fords when they switched to coil springs in 2005.

Leaf springs do a better job of keeping the front axle centered, and there aren't nearly as many bushings and other wear parts. They can still death wobble but it isn't nearly as common.
 

Peace

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He makes sure they work before hauling anything. 😊I've heard them pump up.😊

The real question is, "how often does he use the pickup any more?" It sits a lot.
For what we do now, he would get a single wheeled one, but he has this one all pimped out.
CM flatbed, Herd aluminum bumper, all things that were expensive that couldn't be
put on a new single axle, so it's okay if this one sits...doesn't cost much to sit. The
original warranty will be up this fall, not sure about buying an extended warranty.
$3800 for 10 years/120,000 miles/no deductible or $2879 for 8 years/100,000 miles,
no deductible. Bumper to bumper. A couple of years ago we were quoted.120,000 mi/no deductible $2038; 6 years 100,000 mi/no deductible S1613. So the price has increased substantially.
Probably because of the cost of repairs. What bothers me is that 36,000 of the 100,000 (or 120,000) miles is already covered by the original warranty.

So what are y'alls thoughts on buying extended warranties?
And if he deletes the warranty is voided anyway. That's why he was waiting til fall and
the original warranty expires.
So far, no issues at all.
TIA.
Did I mention he is a man of many trailers? He has so many I've lost count. But he says he uses them all. 🤣😂🤣

The only way I would even consider an "extended warranty" is if it's from the manufacturer. Most of the dealers sell a 3rd party service contract that they pump up as the best because of whatever reason they can make up, but in the end the only thing they're better at is increasing the dealers bottom line. I spent 3 years doing the final paperwork and trying to sell about 10 different kind of insurance at closing in a retail car dealership. Some of those insurance policies have a purpose, heck some were actually very beneficial to many people, but most are just a profit center.

One thing is certain on vehicles today, the mechanics aren't really fixing or rebuilding anything these days. They basically plug in a computer into the OBD, check the codes and what is bad they replace. In general they don't take it apart and find the $3 item that is causing the issue, they replace the $200 item the $3 item caused to fail. All of that for $100 or $125 or whatever it is per hour now...probably more cuz it was $90 back in 2000 when I sat in the box. (car lingo for closing office)
 

faster horses

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The only way I would even consider an "extended warranty" is if it's from the manufacturer. Most of the dealers sell a 3rd party service contract that they pump up as the best because of whatever reason they can make up, but in the end the only thing they're better at is increasing the dealers bottom line. I spent 3 years doing the final paperwork and trying to sell about 10 different kind of insurance at closing in a retail car dealership. Some of those insurance policies have a purpose, heck some were actually very beneficial to many people, but most are just a profit center.

One thing is certain on vehicles today, the mechanics aren't really fixing or rebuilding anything these days. They basically plug in a computer into the OBD, check the codes and what is bad they replace. In general they don't take it apart and find the $3 item that is causing the issue, they replace the $200 item the $3 item caused to fail. All of that for $100 or $125 or whatever it is per hour now...probably more cuz it was $90 back in 2000 when I sat in the box. (car lingo for closing office)
I believe it. That's exactly what happened with our pickup when we took it in several times because of electrical issues. They never were able to fix it. We had to trade for another pickup.
Made us sick. Every time we took it in, they had to call the warranty people to get the repair approved. It was in a week at a time, every time. Disgusting. Disappointing. Maddening.
 

Lucky

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I have had that same thing happen to me twice now. Drove over a bridge while on a 2 lane highway and all at once it went crazy. I started to pull over and slow up, and it quit. My Ford F350 is only a 2017 with 21,000 miles on it. Is that a warranty thing? I purchased the extended warranty.
Both of mine were fixed under warranty. One started it again so I bought a Fox stabilizer and it drives much better than stock with no DW.
 

Brute 23

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I have had that same thing happen to me twice now. Drove over a bridge while on a 2 lane highway and all at once it went crazy. I started to pull over and slow up, and it quit. My Ford F350 is only a 2017 with 21,000 miles on it. Is that a warranty thing? I purchased the extended warranty.
It depends on what is causing it. Worn items like tie rods etc will likely not be covered unless they deam them to have worn prematurely. Same with stabilizers or shocks. Most every thing that causes it is a wear item so it is a little bit tougher sell.
 

Brute 23

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I thought they are a high profit add on for the dealer?
It is. That doesn't mean it's not still a good deal for you.

For one, that is one of the easiest things to negotiate. Never act satisfied with the price of the vehicle not matter how much they come down. When you mention the warranty and they tell you the high price, tell them you will give them cost of the vehicle plus a thousand, maybe 2, for the vehicle and warranty.

I think $1500 is the most I have ever paid for bumper to bumper 120k miles warranty. They generally have like a $100 deductible. They come with rental amounts and tow services.

Every time I have bought the warranty I have come out on top.

With the Dodge from hell it was at the dealer for 2 months. I had a rental truck for 2 month at around $1200 per month. It cost me $100 plus covered about half the rental.

When I was running half ton trucks gauging I would wear out front end parts and stuff very frequently. The warranty considered it premature wear and covered it under warranty.

On these new trucks a screen is $700, ac blender door $750, glow plug $200, $500 chip under bed controls the trailer lights, lumbar support is $350, and on and on. That's assuming you don't have some kind of major mechanical failure. Just the nick nacks on truck will pay for it. I had a latch on my console break and it was $200.

With smaller stuff I let it build up then show up to dealer to fix 3 or 4 things. It's one, $100 deductible.

The more extras on the vehicle and the more you drive the more I think it justifies itself.

When I run 60K miles a year, I buy a truck with 120k mile warranty, drive it 2 years, trade it in. I lock in my cost of owning that vehicle. The depreciation plus the warranty and a few $100 deductibles give me my cost of ownership.

I could by a $65k truck, drive it for 2yrs, get $50k for it and be in a brand new one. $625 a month straight up, little to no risk.

The market has changed now so it's a little different game but it will come back around eventually.

Not saying it may work out for every single person but it's definitely not worth just writing off as a scam.
 

Caustic Burno

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I am still driving an 02 7.3 Powerstroke. Old truck has been the best I’ve ever owned .
I have a Banks tuner most times is tuned for economy, reflashed the computer Thursday for tow/haul and off to the salebarn. When got back home went back to economy.
Truck still looks good IMO.
5C8191EE 31A2 4E22 8C62 BB2D40BFFFE7
 

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